bethan asks: The lintels above the windows and doors are rusty. It is expanding and causes the brick venner to crack horizontally and in zig zag patterns. The exterior of the bottom floor is brick venner and top floor is wood exterior. I am wondering can I change the brick veener exterior to wooden exterior for my bottom floor. what type of wood is suitable and rot resistant? Can any builder perform this type of job?
Hi Bethan It could be done but the following needs consideration. - The council would need to be consulted regarding a new consent and changing cladding / structure. - The windows may need replacing due to difference of cladding and the weathertightness. - The base detail would need to be designed to ensure adequately flashed over the existing foundation supporting the current brick. Regards The James Hardie Team
Janet Thomsen asks: Hi, we have a large shower cavity which is 800mm x 1700mm. We need to line three walls (2 x 800mm and 1 x 1700mm) and we need it to be a minimum 2000mm high. Can we do this with Hardigaze?
Hi Janet Yes it can. Suggest doing all with 900mm wide sheets for layout and batch purposes. All cut edges to be sealed. Machine edge to bottom of sheet. Refer to HardieGlaze Lining Installation Manual for further detail. Regards The James Hardie Team
kaye asks: What is the best flooring for a wet floor shower, We are about to put in a walk in wet floor shower, on to a wooden floor, and heard that vinyl can be used on the floor and up the walls?
Hi Kaye The vinyl flooring can be fixed over the Tile and Slate Underlay and the Villaboard Lining for the scenario described. Regards The James Hardie Team
martin harvey asks: hi have tuck an old slate fireplace out of an old house how do i get concret off the slate fireplace it on the back of the fireplace i cont get it off with out brakin the slate.regards martin.
Hi Martin Or for heavy duty but with extreme caution as this will definitely eat the cement away Hydrochloric acid (temper this down with water)… once again follow safety with extreme caution…
Shelley Menalda asks: My son now 15 has a small double room. I want to be able to get a desk into this room but space is limited. (he has a door/window and his wardrobe on one wall, windows on another and I have his bed on this wall, a TV on another with his gaming under this and the other, a book shelf and chest of drawers. Is there anyway I could build / buy something that combines a few bits of furniture into one i.e drawers that perhaps combine as a desk - (he is tall)
Hi Shelley You can try Harvey Norman or other websites like: http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/categories/departments/bedroom/ http://www.compacfurniture.co.nz/ http://www.bellacocina.co.nz/ Regards The James Hardie Team
Jo Sellar asks: We are building a new home and would like to know if it's possible to install a toilet on an inside wall in our second storey bathroom? There is an outside wall but the layout works much better if the bath runs along that wall. Thanks, Jo.
Hi Jo Yes you can but you still need to check with your plumber that all the vents etc are working ok. Regards The James Hardie Team
Gavin Martin asks: We are building a new home and have just finished the internal gibbing. We have noticed that around most all the joinery (windows and sliders) that the gib is not flush and varies by as much as 10mm on the inside. We have also noted that the nu-wall cladding on the outside is also pushed out in some places. The builder advised that this can happen on some builds with the stringent requirement around leaky buildings (packing) and the movement in the framing.
Does this make sense from your perspective? What would you recommend to address this?
Hi Gavin Refer to the LBP designer of your project as building structure may influence this possibility. Regards The James Hardie Team
Mark Hopping asks: I have a native timber floor to which I would like to apply ceramic tiles using slate and tile underlay.
However the brochure that I have indicates that the slate and tile should be glued to ply or composite type flooring materials but tells me nothing about native timber flooring.
My question obviously then is,should I be glueing it to the native flooring and what adhesive should I be using to do this ??
Your advice would be very much appreciated.
Regards Mark Hopping
Hi Mark As per Page 9 of the Flooring Installation Manual September 2011 ‘Tile and Slate underlay can be fixed only using the nails when fixed to tongue and groove timber floors or hardwood floors’. Therefore no adhesive required regarding query. Regards The James Hardie Team
Sharon Murray asks: We are putting in a porthole window with a radius of 600mm. Please could someone advise me on the flashing details.
Hi Sharon Please refer to a Window manufacturer around alternate solutions for head flashings for this application. Regards The James Hardie Team
Maria asks: Hi, I am a first time homebuyer. Which one is better for us to buy a plaster home or a weatherboard homes? I heard that buyers shun plaster home. What's the reason?
Hi Maria Buying a first home requires lots of research.. You might find this site of interest. http://www.house-buying-downunder.com/ Regards The James Hardie Team
s thomsen asks: Renovating old home. Rough sawn match lining. Before Gibbing over this I plan to remove top and bottom boards of lining and slip Batts down behind. Suspect I need a membrane between exterior siding and Batts (?). If so, I seem to recall some batts are available with DPM on one side?
Is this sensible?
Regards
Hi there To get the most accurate answer, I would recommend that you discussed this further with companies like Pink Batts, Potter Interiors, Forman Insulation. Regards The James Hardie Team
John asks: Hi
What is an rfeasoanbly accurate cost per sq metre to do an extension to the back of our balmoral villa. 60 sq metres approx by extending back of house on reasonably flat back yard? Assuming we go for average cost materials and little design spec with minimal intgernal disruption....so basically a straight add on at back of 2 roomsthanks
john
Hi John You could better refer to the website below for assistance on breakdown of costing, building materials etc.. http://www.tradebox.co.nz/pb_job_breakdown_1.asp?Category=New+Homes+%26+Renovations Regards The James Hardie
Chris asks: Our house was built just after WW2, cinder block exterior walls with roughcast.
Internal lath plaster, walls, ceiling.
With earthquakes in Christchurch we have cracking through exterior walls with piles gone and floor dropping away from exterior wall on one side of house.
What I need to know is we have been informed the house has no framework within the cinder blocks in the external walls.
How can we tell if there is a framework supporting the external walls.
Hi Chris Unfortunately if it is in fact cinder block and without seeing the residence they are quite possibly right. If it were framed, it will have been framed internally or externally of the cinder block and there will have been claddings/linings attached to the framing. But with cinder block in the times it will not have been required because cinder block will have been considered self sustaining… Regards The James Hardie Team
Kelly asks: Hi, I own a 1960's home with concrete foundations. It sits on a sloping site, so a workshop is on the lower level with the main bedroom above it (rest of the house is on this level). The concrete above the wooden workshop door has crumbled and exposes the metal, and there are cracks in the concrete around the house. We've had 'concrete solutions' look at it, structurally they said its ok, however remedy estimate using their system will cost $15k +. We're keen to renovate the workshop to create a rumpus room. Welcome advice with regards to the blown out concrete e.g. would we first get a draftsman to do up a design for the consent (will be changing wooden doors to a window and need to add a slider to the other west side of the workshop by perhaps bracing house and framing workshop with wood? or seek an engineer first to check it out??) I'm a little bit stumped about where to next - what would the best most cost effective process to follow? Look forward to hearing from the experts! Cheers, Kelly
Hi kelly The best options is to first get a draftsman to give you rough sketch based on your requirements or the changes that you want to make. Then take this sketch and sit with an engineer who will then determine what structural changes are needed and at the same time will guide about the cracking concrete. After this you will need to see your council with the finalised drawings for a consent. Regards The James Hardie Team
jasmine asks: hi how are you?
i live in a 1960s lockwood house. it makes a lot of cracking sound. is there any way to reduce the sound? would a light colour roof help?
cheers
jasmine
Hi Jasmine Suggest talking to Lockwood to see if they have any new improvements from the construction method used then. The James Hardie Team
kristy asks: A house I'm interested in buying seems to have a damp problem - I noticed a cupboard has mold growing from the ground to about 2ft up the walls. The cupboard is on an interior wall. The house has been empty for a few months, with the ventilation system running. How much of a red flag is this? Should I run a mile, or could it be because the house has been empty for so long?
Hi Kristy It is really hard to comment on this problem. I would recommend seeking the assistance of a builder. The James hardie Team
Rachel Clapham asks: I have a claw foot skipper bath that has to be in a certain position in the bath room to fit. This means that the wall mounted individual taps are not long enough to quite reach in the bath. I was wondering if you knew of any individual taps with a 190mm + reach or tap and mixer connected that can be cranked out to 260mm
Hoping you can help me out.
Kind regards. Rachel
Hi Rachel Anything to a degree is possible, though this is a very unusual layout. It would be best to contact a bathroom distributor such as Heirloom (largest known distributor in NZ), Plumbline and Better Bathrooms, all of which can be found on-line… An open mind will be key.. I did note last year at the NZ Build expo new design in commercial kitchen taps etc… that had an extremely long reach. Also taps with extra reach are also recognized in hospitals, so maybe you would need to look or query on a commercial rather than residential level also, broadening the scope at bathroom/kitchen manufacturers/distributors because some of these would not usually be ‘offered’ publically in general because most are considered for commercial use/look… and not necessarily attractive. Regards The James Hardie TEam
Phil asks: how do i prepare the gib after removing an old shower liner to replace with a new one? The gib is cover paper is ripped all over.
Hi Phil Unfortunately if the cover paper is that degraded you would need to replace the Gib board, for further confirmation contact Winstone Wallboards Limited 0800 100 442, requesting a Technical Rep such as Dale Mercer… Regards The James Hardie Team
Teresa Richardson asks: we are currently in the process of removing wall tiles in the bathroom and have a problem with the tiles adjacent to the floor. As we remove them it is damaging the waterproof membrane. we have tried using a hot gun but this is not successful. What can we do to preserve the membrane ? we dont want to take up the floor tiles as they are still in good condition
Hi Teresa This would depend on what and who’s type of waterproofing product you have, the wisest advice would be to contact the waterproofing manufacturer direct or a waterproofing manufacturer giving as much information as possible (photos are helpful) in order for them to discern what type you may have as a heat gun may not be the correct tool to use i.e. by using a heat gun, in weakening what you do want to remove you will also weaken that which is closest to said proximity. It would be better to know the name/type of your particular waterproofing membrane. There are liquid, flexible and rigid membranes in the market.. A couple of waterproofing manufacturers: Ardex NZ Ltd Flexco (NZ) Ltd Waterproofing Systems Ltd Protective Surfaces Ltd ASA Waterproofing Membranes from Bostik Regards The James Hardie Team
Noel Jr. Azarcon asks: Can you use Hardieflex or cement boards as bathroom partition? Thanks.
Hi Noel If you are wanting a prefinished product to stick to the wall then HardieGlaze Lining or Horizon Lining installed as per their installation manuals is the best way to go. Regards The James Hardie Team
phill reid asks: is villaboard the same as asbestos product. want to renovate en suite built in 1986 will i need asbestos removal if villawood was used?
Hi Phil Villaboard Lining was produced approx 1987. The manufacture of asbestos based products in New Zealand ceased mid 1982 so I can’t be sure of what you may have? But asbestos manufactured products stopped mid 1982. The James Hardie Team
di asks: I am wanting to instal a shower over the bath in an ex state house. I need to Harfiglaze the walls. Can this be done over existing lining which is enamel painted and , if so, what glue is used? Thanks.
Hi Di As per HardieGlaze Lining installation manual the Hardieglaze Lining can go over plasterboard. The scenario above if painted plasterboard would need the paint sanded to ensure keying between products. Adhesives are products like Sika Nailbond PB, No More Nails. Regards The James Hardie Team
Richard Schoeman asks: Hi,
I'm going to be lining the ceiling of a new bach with 12mm Meranti Ply. The ceiling is not a diaphram ceiling so the lining does not provide bracing as such.
I wish to leave a 10mm gap between the sheets to provide a negative detail look rather than butting them together.
A couple of questions
1. Can you recommend what I can use to create a "black" 10mm gap between the sheets. I was thinking of some type of black plastic tape or the like I could staple to the battens but this would have to be very thin!
2. Fixing of the Meranti Ply sheets - I could either use a finishing nailer or use feature screws. Can you recommend a feature screw that would be appropriate or if using a finishing nailer do these nail holes generally require filling?
Thanks for your help with this matter
Regards Richard
Hi Richard 1) If you desire an 8-10mm negative detail in the joints, I would need to assume you are using a minimum 50mm wide batten to support the sheets/joints which will allow for 10-12mm fixing clearance to edge of sheet and give 10-12mm holding power into side of batten without creating blowout? To flash behind the 10mm negative detail, you could use a compressible 50mm 3259 inseal tape which is sticky on one side so stapling will not be required. 2) Pending the thickness of the Meranti Ply sheets you have obtained for this application, a glue and screw/flathead nail combination would be best, similar to how you would install GIB Wallboards to a ceiling. A continuous bead of adhesive applied to the battens, giving better uniformity to the sheets once compressed back to frame (adhesives have better adherence in continuous beads than daubs, better compression)… if using countersunk screws or flathead nails a putty selected in a similar colour can be used to fill or tidy up any imperfections etc... Feature screws or exposed fixings are another option. There are a variety of finishing types supplied by the building merchants for selection. It would be wise to call Lumber Shop 0800 4 LUMBER or +64-9-6222050 to check the length and gauge of the screw or nail based on the thickness of ply sheets you have selected. The James Hardie Team
Joy Pinnell asks: We are renovating an old cob cottage. The walls and ceiling are covered with scrim. We have stripped the wallpaper and purchased some more. How do we go about hanging new wallpaper on the scrim. We need all the help we can get as we are all amateurs Some of us have hung some but not on scrim. Thank you. Joy
.
Hi Joy From an article on the web it appears there are two ways of doing this. Gib over being the dearest and with older houses the hardest as normally the walls are not square or straight . Second way is as you’ve done and remove old wall paper from scrim, retighten the scrim and renail or staple then hang a heavily embossed paper if you put enough tacks in the scrim. There was a note about insurance companies and scrim homes being renovated. You might want to pose this question to your insurance company. Regards The James Hardie Team
william o`corrigan asks: applied and got planning permission for two storey extension to the side of my end terrace house only managed to complete onestory two years ago, put roof on, am now in a position to cary on with second storey, need advice when i take the roof off the first story how to stop rain and rubble getting into the first story as it is completed and furnished.
Hi William Some builders put temporary removable lightweight panels such as rigid air barriers on and remove as required or a combination of lightweight panels and a tarpaulin canopy. (rigid air barrier boards have a level of water resistant coating that can protect over a period of time such as James Hardie Rigid Air Barrier Board. You can learn more about James Hardie RAB board and Home RAB by following these links RAB Board - http://jameshardie.co.nz/product/RAB-Board?i=8 Home RAB - http://jameshardie.co.nz/product/HomeRAB-PreClad-Lining?i=38 Regards The James Hardie Team
robert nash asks: Please could you tell me how many 20KG bags of self leveling concrete to cover 25sq mts to a depth of 12mm
Hi Robert May I refer you to the following companies. They should be able to answer your question. Nuplex, or Concrete Direct, Attention: Rod Regards The James Hardie Team
val watson asks: Is there anyone in NZ that sell ceiling blinds. I desperately need some for my conservatory as the heat from the sun is unbearable
Hi Val I would suggest that you have a look at purchasing louvers. The best place to start is with a hardware store like a Placemakers or Mitre 10, or even someone like Freedom. Regards The James Hardie Team
Justin asks: Is it possible to fire rate 45/45/45 the under side of a timber cantilevered deck?
I have spent many hours searching the web with no luck.
Would this need to be specific design and if so who would provide the expertise for this?
Hi Justin You could talk to a fire engineer. In the James Hardie Fire and Acoustic Design Manual on page 30 we have a 45min system called a JHFTGJ45. Generally they use HardieFlex or Villaboard Lining over Gib Fyreline to protect from weather. Link to the James Hardie Fire and Acoustic Manual: http://jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/page/product/pi_productid/2 Regards The James Hardie
jenny asks: Hi There, we are planning to extend the ground floor of our house, adding a bedroom plus ensuite to the back of the house and knocking through a tiny boxroom to make a family bathroom. My question is - do i need to employ an architect to draw up plans initially and deal with building consents?
Thank you
Hi jenny Yes. Anything structural must be compliant with the Building Code and the skills of a designer should ensure ease of going through building consent with all appropriate detailing. The James Hardie Team
Moreah Sandwell asks: Can James Hardie Horizon Lining go straight to the floor in the bathroom or does it need a skirting board to join to the flooring? Where can you purchase it?
Hi Moreah This is personal preference. It is common to have a skirting but as per Figure 14 in the Horizon Lining Installation Manual http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/page/brochures/pi_productid/39, we do show an option for a sealant joint to a tiled floor. Regards The James Hardie Team
Kirsten asks: Hi there, we have recently bought a 1960's lockwood home. We are wanting to change the bathroom, either by preparing and painting over the wood with an appropriate wet area paint, gibbing over the wood or stripping the lining off and gibbing, I have heard there are concerns about he movement in lockwoods causing gib joins to crack, what would you suggest? Thanks
Hi Kirsten I would suggest you discuss this further with Gib. Alternatively I would suggest you use a James Hardie prefinished product like Horizon Lining or HardieGlaze Lining with mouldings. Regards The James Hardie Team
Garry Lythberg asks: We have a home with the top (second storey) clad in 6mm hardieflex which has a sprayed on textured finish well painted. The house has been checked by a moisture detection specialist and has moisture levels less than 14%. There are no signs of moisture penetrationon the interior or cracking etc on the exterior. The report states the building is excellent condition and well constructed. My question is can new weatherboards be applied over the cladding with or with a cavity,or does the cladding have to be removed. It strikes me that using the existing claddthe moisture barrier would be a far better solution than removing the cladding and fixing Tyvek or other wrap.
Hi Garry It is good that there is no moisture ingress and the building is in good condition. If it's a plain wall then it's possible to reclade with cavity battens over the top of the existing cladding. But you will have a problem with your existing windows and doors as they will sit much deeper in the wall and this will mean that moisture could get in from the outside. I suggest that the window frames be removed and replaced with thicker frames to accomodate the thicker cladding. Regards The James Hardie Team
anne downs asks: I had my roof replaced in the summer with concrete tiles and watherproof breathable skin. I now have dampness on many of the roof beams (wet to touch and in many places. There is wetness behind certain areas of the skin too. My roofer is baffled. He says maybe it should be insulated but this would surely just mask the problem. Water must be getting in somewhere? Insulation will surely just mask the problem and surely this should all have been done at the same time if it was a necessary part of the work.
Hi Anne I suggest that the roof is checked by a builder to check for any leaks etc. I can only think that the moisture ingress is from the roof leaks. Regards The James Hardie Team
MIchael Kemsley asks: Hi there,
We are looking at purchasing a property with plans to convert two small bedrooms into a master bedroom, and ensuite. How easy is it to retro fit an ensuite (toilet shower, vanity) on an existing house with a concrete slab floor, do we need to rais the sower etc, to avoid unnecessary costs? What else should we consider
Regards
Michael
Hi Michael The first thing is to see the council about adding a bathroom. You need to draw drawings and then speak to a builder about setting the levels of the shower. Regards The James Hardie Team
M. Phelan asks: Any idea where I might be able to obtain Caroma toilet cistern cover (top). Have four to replace and the plastic covers are worn down and ingrained in mould/stain. Have tried all types of cleaning materials without success. Understand the cisterns are old type (14 yrs) no longer being manafuctured. Hope you can help. Regards
Hi I suggest you look up and contact C J Energy. They are a company that will be able to supply this. Regards The James Hardie Team
Richard asks: Is there a building code requirement in NZ to have two or more closable doors between a kitchen area and a toilet? Thanks
Hi Richard Please refer to G1 clause of the NZBC. There is definitely a requirement of maintaining hygiene in the food preparation area and a a door required between the toilet. The James Hardie Team
Mary asks: I had a vinyl plank flooring installed over a plywood subfloor, now there is a bump in my vinyl flooring where every nail is in the subfloor. The installer poured a leveler before he installed the vinyl, but apparently he didn't put down enough. What are my options now? I am a widow and live alone so I feel like the installer took advantage of me. I don't have the money to have another put in, so I don't know what to do.
Hi Mary You do need to go back to the installer concerning rectification especially if it is an installation issue. Prior to the installation of the vinyl plank flooring the existing substrate ‘plywood subfloor’ needed to be assessed as to whether it was suitable or in suitable condition including fixings etc…. any remedial works needed in order to meet the application requirements of the vinyl plank flooring should have been done prior. You could also contact the vinyl plank flooring manufacturer concerning technical literature i.e. installation method & requirements. Also asking for opinion and advice concerning best practice on the installation of their product.. If you do not know who manufactured the product you will need to find out from the installer the actual manufacturer or even the outlet he sourced it through… I have given a few key manufacturers names below. Irvine international & outlets (More outlets available on their website) Carpet link Carpet Vision CK Flooring Hills Flooring etc… James Halstead Flooring (outlets available on their website) Karndean International (outlets available on their website) The James Hardie Team
Tristan asks: Hi I am renovating my bathroom and would like to know where i can get someone to make a custom wooden slat shower base to go over a steel tray? Thanks
Hi Tristan Unless you are prepared to pay for the actual carpentry craft and trade knowledge, taking into consideration the choice of a correct product i.e. Teak as an example, fixings and sealing for the environment etc… and longevity of life, sometimes it may be better to buy in. I have posted a couple of websites with an attractive selection below, or you would need to contact a carpenter versus a builder… http://www.impressionsindecor.com/us/tsm.htm http://www.maaxcollection.com/CreativeContent/CreativeContent.aspx?cCId=158&tCC=5&lang=En Regards The James Hardie Team
Viv asks: The bathroom (shower and vanity) is in the middle of our our 1920s house, i.e. not against any external walls. The toilet is located in the laundry on an external wall. We are looking at renovating the bathroom to make into a family bathroom and are wondering if it is possble to have the toilet in a room that doesnt have an external wall? The bathroom is right in the middle of the house, so the pipes would need to go either under a bedroom or under the kitchen. Would this be possible? I have never seen a bathroom located in the middle of a house like this before.
Hi Viv It is best to discuss this with a licensed plumber as venting and pipe locations need to be considered. However, anything to a degree is possible, though this is a very unusual layout, the toilet can be relocated to the centre room but it would ideally depend on whether you could source a freestanding style of toilet ,otherwise you would be looking at a form of backing pending the style of toilet chosen, such as a backing in the form of a ‘false' cabinet or incorporated into a cabinet/bench, thinking outside of the square, it will come down to creativity/design. The plumbing can be re-located, but the closer a down pipe is to an exist the better chance of flow and alleviation of blockage… a few bathroom distributors with a selection of toilets are Heirloom (largest known distributor in NZ), Plumb line and Better Bathrooms, all of which can be found on-line… Creativity and imagination will be key in this lay-out.. Regards The James Hardie Team
Ivana asks: Hi there,
I am renovating on a tight budget, I was wondering how hard it is to remove old carpet (of a house about 15 years old), is it something I can do myself with the help of my hubby? I would leave the fitting of the new carpet to the professional of course but I was thinking of saving some money for the uplifting a disposal of the old carpet,
your help is greatly appreciated !
Hi Ivana Removing carpet can be done by yourself working with a buddy and helpful tooling, pending how you approach the task (unless your wishing to save the carpet itself either cut and take it up in 1 piece or sections, the underlay can tend to be the most time consuming) then also pending how the carpet and possibly underlay involved has been fixed therefore staples may be involved (100’s), also small tacks, once again pending the size of the area (100s)… patients & perseverance. Otherwise quite rewarding once achieved. The James Hardie Team
Melanie asks: On hot days after frosts on the west side of my property i seem to get really damp walls this happens in two of the bedrooms as well as the toilet which is the middle of the two rooms. I have had a plumber come who has advised that it is not plumbing. I have a dvs system also. What can I do to recitify this problem?
Hi Melanie It appears to be condensation forming on the wall. This could be due to poor insulation in the wall cavity. It certainly needs to be looked at closely. I suggest that you check the construction of the wall and what materials have been used. The James Hardie Team
Susan Wood asks: I have had to buy a new home due to the CHCH earthquake. Rather than completely renovate the kitchen, where on earth to I go to buy reasonably priced free standing kitchen work benches.
Hi Susan Please contact Stewart Scott from Kitchen Cabinetry and he will be an appropriate person to talk to. www.stewart-scott.co.nz charles@stewart-scott.co.nz Regards The James Hardie Team
martin asks: Hi There,
We have an insert log burner, the usual brick facer/surround. We would like a smooth paintable surface, that is fireproof, as under the mantle does get hot.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Martin
Hi Martin This would depend on the temperature. Would Villaboard Lining be suitable. The paint would need to be tolerable to this temperature. You might be better talking to Forman Insulation about Supalux. The James Hardie Team
Jo asks: I'm thinking of adding more rooms to my single storey house. Which option is cheaper: Option A to build a 6m x 6m garage with 6m x 6m room above it (ie. 2 storey), or Option B to build a 6m x 6m garage with 6m x 6m room behind it on same ground level?
Hi Jo It depends upon the construction method you are going to use but in general building on ground level is always cheaper. Regards The James Hardie Team
Annie asks: We doing a quick pre-sell makeover to our 100sqm 1940s weatherboard beach bungalow on the Kapiti coast.
We're wanting some suggestions on exterior colour schemes, and wondering what some of the better options are for this era of house. We've done some renovations re-using doors and cupboards where necessary and there isn't an aluminium window frame in sight.
I don't know where to start with colour, but know that I want to avoid brown at any cost.
Any suggestions?
thanks
Annie
Hi Annie I think you need to do a couple of things: No. 1 Talk to a paint manufacturer or have look at the www.tvshowhomes.co.nz and use customer builder which has many houses and you can play around with colours. No 2. You need to talk to a designer. Regards
Lindsay asks: What is the range of price per sqm that I should expect to get quoted to get a good quality existing floor sanded and polished. All old coverings and nails etc have been removed.
Hi Lindsay This is quite hard to tell. It depends on the material the floor is made from and the condition of the floor. May I recommend you get in touch with a professional flooring company like Hills Flooring. The James Hardie Team
Debbie asks: The ceiling in my bedrooms (1976) wasn't gib stopped - it has that plastic line that covers the joins - I want to get rid of it. Can I take off the plastic and gib stop the joins - or gib over top - or do I have to take the old ceiling off and start again?
Hi Debbie You will need to talk to a plasterer or to GIB, they will be better suited to answer your question. Regards The James Hardie Team
Charlene asks: Hi
I have a split level home and my bedroom is on the bottom level. Opposite my bedroom is an area under the stairwell to the upper levels. This area to me looks to be the perfect size to turn into a walk in wardrobe, it would require two walls to be built to enclose the area, my question is whether or not I would require building consent to have this work done?
Hi Charlene It is hard to answer your question without seeing the drawings of the property. I would suggest that you talk to your council to get clarification. Regards The James Hardie Team
Sharon asks: Hi, we are thinking of buying an old villa with a set of internal steps that we want to remove so we can extend the poky kitchen. We won't be changing the footprint of the home or removing walls, etc. My question is, do we need a consent to remove these stairs (there is another access to the top floor at the front of the house and from the exterior). We are in Wellington..
Appreciate any light anyone can shed...we are not long back from overseas so unclear as to any recent changes in regs, etc
Thanks
Hi Sharon Anything related with structural changes requires a building consent. The removal of stairs and alteration to the framing or creating a floor is a structural issue therefore I suggest that you discuss this with your council. Regards The James Hardie Team
Belinda asks: I have a large kitchen and living area which is about 9.2m by 5.5m. The ceiling has an expansion joint which is very visable. Is this expansion joint necessary? What is the current building standard/regulation regarding this? Thanks
Hi Belinda As per NZS 3604 with a Ceiling diaphragm the length must not exceed twice the width The joint in the ceiling may be due to the rules of the building material used for your ceiling. Ie with Villaboard Lining our current installation manual indicates control joints at 7.2m x 4.8m and with Gib Board their current site guide indicates Control joints at 9metres. You may need to research what the ceiling is made of and contact the manufacturer for more detailed information to your query. The James Hardie Team
Michele asks: Hi, we are part way through redecorating/renovating our bathroom. We removed the old shower liner as the mixer and rose were of the too high up variety and we are replacing it with a lower version so that the kids can reach. I stripped the old wallpaper and have been busy sealing and painting the walls. I have sealed the wall behind the old shower liner and my husband has just now read in the instructions that came with the new liner that you can't fix the liner to a previously painted or selaed wall. SO...my question is, what should we do? Cheers :-)
Hi Michele I would suggest that you alk to the manufacturer of liner. They may be able to buff the surface. The James Hardie Team
Simone asks: Hi there
I have just bought a villa that has a narrow hallway staircase leading to a lower floor, which has been converted into a kitchen and lounge room.
In two of the upstairs bedrooms there are back to back fireplaces, with an undeveloped basement area below them, and I would like to move the existing narrow staircase into the chimney space between the rooms, terminating in the void space below.
Just wondering if this is a very expensive renovation to do? If it is really expensive, then I will try to think of another plan!
Thanks
Simone
Hi Simone A builder or a designer would be best to answer this question, as it looks like a permit would be required. Regards The James Hardie Team
Steve Shaw asks: Hi... I want to add a 64 sqm upstairs room on top of an existing wooden framed room. Will I need to reinforce the lower level? What is an approx sq m price for the upstairs addition?
Hi Steve This is hard to tell without seeing the plans of the building. You need to contact and discuss this with a designer if you do not have the existing plans. A builder will also give you an accurate estimate of the cost. The James Hardie Team
Janine asks: Hello, My unit was built in 1970, two storey with concrete ground floor, toilet on the ground floor. The toilet pipe runs out the wall behind the toilet but there is also an ugly plastic vent pipe running from the side of the toilet into the side wall, I would like to replace the toilet with one that doesn't need the ugly side vent pipe. I have been told that the toilet pedestal might be filled with concrete making the job harder, and that there would be a difference in the diameter of pipes used today? What problems might the plumber face?
Also, there is not much space between the front of the toilet and the door when opening it, is there a style of toilet which sits closer to the back wall so that it doesn't protrude so far into the limited space?
Thank you.
Hi Janine You need to discuss this in-depth with a builder onsite and a bathroom manufacturer for selection. The James Hardie team
Lizzie asks: Hi
I want to retrofit underfloor insulation, the expol sheets look like the easiest option but have a much lower rating than the pinkbatts snugfloor. How do you retrofit the pink batts to ensure they stay up in between the floor joists (having to access from under the house)?
Hi Lizzie You will need to talk to Tasman Insulation. They are the best people to give you good advice on this matter. Regards The James Hardie Team
Mike Rarere asks: Hi. Im getting new vinyl laid in my laundry. The external walls are Fibrolite, and this is causing alot of condensation/moisture. The vinyl will run up the wall about 6 inches but my vinyl layer has told me he cant lay the vinyl without this moisture issue being addressed. What are my options? Is there a sealant to use or is it best not to run the vinyl up onto the fibrolite? I await your reply. Mike.
The moisture in the wall is a complex issue and you must find the source of the moisture ingress first and then fix it. You should get a builder or an expert to look at the wall and seek advice how to fix it. You definitely need to ensure that the wall is dry before you stick vinyl to it. You can run vinyl over the fibrelite. Check with the vinyl supplier for the adhesive required for it. The Drawing Board Team
DonaR asks: I have a 2 bedroom hardi plank unit.
the base board materials are fibrolite looking with very small air vents, as the ground under the house if very damp, Iam considering removing these and replacing with boards that will allow more air flow. will there be something for me to attatch the boards to? what would be keeping the fibrolite on?
thanks
This is site specific issue and we cannot comment without looking at it. The general rule is the cladding must be kept minimum 175m up from the unpaved ground. The Drawing Board Team
Kingi kumeroa asks: I am preplanning for my renovations in regards to cost etc so when I apply for a loan I prepared for the bank.
One of my plans is to rewire the house & I want to bring my 1960 built house in with new Tec stuff, like lights, Flat screen, computers & sound system inside plus out side speakers in the eaves etc?
At the end of the day who is the best person to approach or would there be serval people involved. I guess a wiring plan would be required. I have the main meter box to be moved & another fuse box in the corridor. I have made allowances for Solar power to electricity for the house! Please guide me!
Hi Kingi My suggestion would be to talk to an electrician first. Regards The James Hardie Team
Joanne Laing asks: Good Morning,
I have lost a 1/3 of my summerhill stone bricks due to the Feb earthquake. EQR advise me that they will reclad with bricks but I'm not keen. I am very interested in Linear board but EQR advise me that this would cost quite abit more. I would really like to discuss this with someone.
Many thanks
Joanne
Hi Joanne May I referyou to one of our sales reps in Christchurch. Please Contact Chris Brown on 021 480 951 and he should guide you in the right direction. The James Hardie Team
polly asks: We require a custom built wardrobe with sliding doors.Roughly 1600x1200x600 dimensions.Is this the sort of thing you can do?
HomePlus offer a range of custom made options for you. We recommend you get in touch with them.
Trisha Bojan asks: Hi, I need some advise about the best way/product to insulated some walls on the south-side (coldest walls as we don't get any sun on that side of the house). I don't really want to pull off the gib to gain access to the walls. Our house is 1960's, brick with an internal cavity, which you can see and get to from under the house. Thank you
You will not be able to gain access to the cavity spaces between the gib and the cladding (building wrap) without removing the gib so even "blown insulation" will not work because of the nogs and the framing. You may be able to put another layer of lining that has a better thermal rating than std gib, over the top of the existing gib walls and that will only involve removing the scotia, the skirting, and the architraves around the windows and doors. There is no simple fix if you want to do the job properly. If it is just the outside walls on the south side of the house then the m2 area may not be that great to consider taking the gib off. You could contact our Drawing Board partners www.pinkfit.co.nz as they be able to offer another solution. You could consider installing skylights in the areas to introduce more warmth/sunlight. Talk to a qualified builder in your area and get quotes for either options so you can weigh up the cost vs teh long term benefit, You can also get Govt grants in some cases for insulating your home, however you may need to do the entire building envelope.
steve asks: hi. im wanting to convert a 3bdrm house into 2 flats using the front door as the only entrance into the font flat and the back door to the rear flat, is this legal or do i need 2 doors per flat? hawkes bay area.
thanks for your time
My understanding is that you must have more than one exit from a dwelling, however you are best to call your local council and ask to speak to a building inspector to make sure that everything you do as part of the conversion is compliant with the regulations. This will include number of exits, fire regulations, plumbing and drainage,electrical etc.
Bryce asks: I am adding an internal wall into my house and am wondering if I need to remove the ceiling plasterboard before putting up framing or whether I can nail the top plate through the ceiling gib and pick up on the ceiling battens? The wall is non load bearing.
As long as you fix the top plate right through into the battens this should be fine, if it is non load bearing wall, but you will need to be careful if hammering as you could cause cracks in the gib board ceiling with the vibration.
John Sharp asks: When calculating wall bracing values, do you take the exterior cladding into account as well as the interior cladding? If so, is the resultant value the total bracing units for both claddings added together or is it only a percentage of the total combined value? I ask this question because all the calculators I can find use one or the other but not both.
Bracing is calculated usually by the interior lining or the exterior cladding and cannot be combined. The exception is when it is a combined system which has been tested as such and this will be stated in the manufacturers literature, for example in our James Hardie Bracing Design Manual. http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/page/brochures/pi_productid/1 Those with B at the end have Braceline included in the system with the Axon Panel for example.
jane stevens asks: I have a small dark bathroom facing south - can you suggest the best skylight/ solar tube that would suit my renovation? I would like to install one in a dark bedroom as well. I am not concerned about seeing the sky - just getting some natural light in there. cheers
You will need to have someone come to your home to look at the configuration of the roof trusses etc, some solartubes can go straight up, others can be angled to suit but they are designed to reflect the light down the tube so a direct line "to the sky' is not necessary for an effective source of natural light. Contact our Drawing Board partners Homeplus, for a store close to you as they supply and install and will call to site to quote the job. http://www.homeplus.co.nz/our-stores/ Hi Jane I have been misinformed sorry. It is Hometech who sell and install solartubes. http://www.hometech.co.nz/
M Langton asks: What is the best way to remove two layers of wallpaper that have been painted over?
The paper needs to be thoroughly moistened to soften the glue, then it can be carefully sraped off with a flat bladed trowel. The problem is that the paint can provide a water resistant coating, so you may need to scratch up the surface of the paint so the water can penetrate thoroughly. It can be a time consuming process, you are best to try and do each layer at a time, and you need to be careful not to damage the wall lining underneath and you will probably need to have a plaster skim coat done if you want to repaint. Even wall paper will show up any imperfections in the subsurface so depending on what you intend to do (paint or paper) you still may need to skim coat.
Hollie tang wilkinson asks: Hey
We're based in Franz Josef Glacier, west coast South island and would like to renovate our old bathroom.
1. do you guys work rurally?
2. It's putting in a bath with shower screen, toilet and new vanity.
The existing bathroom got a big bath, separate showerbox and a vanity...no toilet.
My husband can help ripping things out....get it ready for you guys to come in and install....our budget is not big....around 10k total cost.
Can you help?
Regards
Hollie
We do not have a list of nationwide contractors who specialise in bathroom renovations, however if you contact your local plumbing merchant they should be able to put you in contact with a plumber in your area and you will need a builder to undertake the carpentry aspects plus an electrician and probably a tiler. The builder may project manage the whole job for you. Before you start taking out the old bathroom fixtures talk to the builder/plumber first. The sanitary drainage will change as you are adding a new toilet in a different location. For fixtures and fittings visit our Drawing Board partners www.clearlite.co.nz and www.methven.co.nz
Mike asks: I have been removing a carpet that has been stuck to concrete. The adhesive is dark yellow and rock solid (having to use a shovel to get the carpet off initially!). The house was built in 1983. Half way through I wondered if possibly the adhesive might contain asbestos. An internet search indicates that generally yellow adhesive does not, it is the black tarry stuff that does, but you can never be certain without testing. What is the truth?
Thanks
Without testing you cannot be certain unless you know exactly what the brand/name of the adhesive used is, or when that carpet was actually glued to the floor. You could enquire at your local council is they can put you in touch with someone who could test the product, if you are worried.
Gaylene Powell asks: We have a 1900 villa with a fireplace with brick surround.in the kitchen. The fireplace backs on to the lounge where there is another fire place - the fireplace it takes up approx 2 mtrs of the kitchen area - we dont have a dinning room so it is the kitchen dinning room area so should we remove the fireplace in the kitchen?
I have another question - i dont like pantrys we are currently looking at a kitchen design which has one in the draft plan. can you make another suggestion?
Thanks for your help - look forward to hearing from you.
If more space in the kithcen is important and you don't use the fireplace then covering it over will give you more wall space and useable area. This will need to be done corectly (there will be a shared chimney etc) so talk to a builder. Pull out pot drawers are a popular option for storage in kitchens, give easy accessability to items which can be seperated out rather than all being stored in one big pantry (and no high reaching to items at the back of the top shelf!) They give a tidy streamlined look to the kitchen and can be made in different depths to suit specific items. You could consider a lazy Susan type storage unit as these are great in hard to access corner units under the bench etc and there are also pull out type pantries where wire racking just slides out, you can easily see and reach items then it all just slides back into the cupboard space. Talk to a kitchen design company as they are the experts, and there are new ideas coming up all the time. Our Drawing Board partner www.stewart-scott.co.nz may be able to assist. (Not sure where you are in NZ)
Roimata Kimitaunga asks: Hi I'm considering adding on 3 bedrooms a laundry and 2 ensuites.
My question is what is the step by step process from start to finish.
You are best to first contact a designer so that you can get some clear plans worked out, as you need to consider building regulations such as distance to boundaries, site coverage, drainage etc. The designer will also need to take into consideration your existing dwelling and other elements such as structural requirements and your personal preferences. Then you have something " drawn up" for your builder to work from regarding pricing. Check out our Drawing Board partners Clearlite for plumbing fixtures and fittings, Methven for tapware, and Pink Batts for insulation. You will need to obtain a building consent from your local council. Once you have your plans and ideas down on paper with the necessary building elements, we can assist with information regarding qualified builders in your area who specialise in renovation work. From the team at The Drawing Board
jane stevens asks: Where can I get a checklist for lighting and switches in a renovation? Is there a guide to help me go room by room and make sure I have the switches and lights I want - where I want - also for telephones and tv and audio. cheers
Thank you for the enquiry I have passed your email to our Drawing Board business partner NRG for Electrical queries and they will be able to point you in the right direction so you can plan carefully, as it is difficult and expensive to try and change it later! From the team at The Drawing Board
Brett asks: I'm going to be putting insulation in my ceiling space soon. This will make a cold space between it and the concrete tile roof. Should building paper be retrofitted under the existing tiles? Would this even be possible?
We suggest that removing the roof to retrofit building paper does not need to be done as it is quite a complicated process however you can contact Pink Batts for further information regarding insulation ratings and best practise.
Nathan asks: We are looking at putting some DIY snap lock flooring or similar into our bathroom when we renovate. it requires a water proof membrane to be applied prior to installation. I can't seem to find anything on the market that I can apply myself. Any suggestions please
Waterproofing requires a qualification which is why there is nothing available to the home DIYer. You will need to contact a professional to have this work done. Thanks
sarah Strachan asks: I am currently renovating our very 1970's bathroom and trying to modernise it on a very small budget. I would like to know about painting out wood pannelling? We have diagonal pine wood pannelling on the whole of the back wall and I would like to paint it out an egg shell blue colour. Do I need to prime it first and if so how?
The other thing I am interested in is do you know about buying baths and the frames from one source? Is it better to get a builder to build the frame to your house or is a ready made frame as good as any?
thanks Sarah
Please contact our Drawing Board partner Dulux regarding the preparation of timber prior to painting as requirements can vary. Baths that are supplied with ready made cradles are an excellent choice as they are generally very cost effective rather than being made on site, however you may need to make adjustments to suit the dimensions of your existing bathroom. Talk to the builder first.
Wendy asks: I have an 80s lockwood with dark brown laminate?? type doors. How do I prepare the surface to paint them? And what paint is suitable?
You will need to contact our Drawing Board partner Dulux to obtain best practise for your project.
Odette asks: Repair a joint/crack were gib boards have been joined and covered with tape 4 years ago. Crack appears under the window on the joint and runs down the wall on both sides of the window.
You will need to remove the old tape and plaster along the join and prepare the jarea before restopping. For a professional finish we woudl suggest you contact a qualified gib stopper. You may need to check that there are not underlying factors in causing the gib to move/ crack, apart from "normal "expansion and contraction and movement.
jared asks: hello i am in a apartment building in auckland city.. unfortunatly someone i know put a whole in the wall, i was just wondering how much a builder would charge to fix this? it is around the size of a fist, or slightly larger.
thank you
A builder is possibly not the best person for this job. You need to contact a drywaller/gib stopper who will be an expert in this kind of repair and will be cheaper than a builder because of it. Pricing is a little difficult without seeing the repair. Your best option would be to call a couple of drywaller/gib stoppers in your area and get pricing from them. It is not always the best to go for the cheapest option. You also need to ask whether the price includes painting, as most gibstoppers will not paint aswell, you may need a different contractor for this. As you live in an apartment it might be best to contact the apartment caretaker as they will have preferred contractors.
Avril asks: Hi there, I have an 11 year old house that is in need of an interior and exterior makeover. However, I don't know where to start. I don't have the funds to do it all at once, but I would like to have an overall plan so that I know what I am working towards and then I can make a start doing a bit at a time. At the moment the kitchen, lounge and dining open plan area is green green green (a dark forest green!!!). I want to change the colour scheme to a more neutral palette and also one that is much lighter and brighter than it is just now. But I am not good with colours, and I need to make big expensive decisions about the kitchen, floor coverings and curtains. Would it be best, and cheaper in the long run, if I get an expensive interior designer, or is there another way I can do this?? Many thanks for your help, Avril
It does sound like an interior designer would be a good investment for you. Interior designers not only help you plan and decide on colour schemes but they also have a lot of knowledge about products to use and contractors/companies to use in order to complete the look.
Pat Skinner asks: I have wallpaper in my lounge that is about 20plus years old and I would like to paint it.It is a washable paper and some joins are a little obvious what would I need to do and is it an acceptable practice to paint over.
A lot of people paint over wallpaper, either because they like the pattern, or prefer not to strip the paper off. Some wallpapers contain plasticisers which can interfere with the drying of paint. Paint shrinks as it dries and will put a lot of strain on the paper, therefore you will need to check the adhesion of the wallpaper. Any loose edges will need to be stuck back first. We recommend you wash the wallpaper thoroughly using a Sugar Soap solution. Try a small test patch of Dulux Sealer Binder - SuperSeal first and check for any signs of slow drying. If the SuperSeal is not dry after 16 hours, the wallpaper is not suitable for painting and will need to be removed. If the test patch of SuperSeal does dry within the specified time, you can proceed to paint the whole wall. After allowing it to dry for at least 16 hours, you should apply 2 top coats. SuperSeal, which is oil-based, can be used in conjunction with oil- or water-based top coats. We would recommend Dulux Wash & Wear 101 Low Sheen in your lounge. Bear in mind, SuperSeal will only fill small surface imperfections so you may still be able to see the joins. Perhaps using a filler before painting will help disguise these.
Rose Oosthuysen asks: How does one determine if an interior wall is safe to remove when redecorating?
You really should employ the help of a qualified tradesperson for this part of your redecorating as they will be able to tell you what is load bearing and what is not. You may also need to consult your council as changing the structure of the home may change your code compliance.
Kerry Lemon asks: We are painting our lounge dining and hallway and would like to paint in a white colour. Can you recommend any white colours? I do not want a cold sterile finish. As their are so many whites to choose from I am hoping you might recommend a few for me to look at. Thanks.
A great place to begin your search for a classic, popular white is the Dulux Popular Colours Interior Card. Here we have displayed our 20 most popular colours and of course they are all versions of white or light neutrals. To avoid your living area appearing too sterile, stay away from the lightest, purest whites - use these as your trim colour for architraves and skirtings (Dulux Wairakei Quarter or Dulux Cardrona) For a warmer white try Dulux Dannevirke or Dulux Sandfly Point. For a muddier white try Dulux Haast Half or Dulux Opononi Half. Don't forget that when applied to the walls in your room, the colour will appear darker than it does on the colour chart.
sarah asks: We wish to paint over some varnished wood in a villa. The outside of a fireplace has a think looking gloss coating on it. And the architraves look like they have been sanded back to the original wood and stained (no gloss). We want to paint over this to white. What preparation do we need to do? do we need to sand it back? can we paint over the top? Many thanks
Due to the location of the varnished timber (close to the fireplace) you will need to use an oil-based (mineral turpentine based) system. This system will withstand heat up to 120°C and is suitable to use on both the old varnished timber and the stained architraves. For the varnished timber, you will need to wash the surface with a Sugar Soap solution, then sand the varnish back to a smooth, flat finish before applying one coat of Dulux Oil Based Primer Undercoat (Wunderprime). Allow this to dry for at least 16 hours before applying two coats of Dulux Super Enamel. On the architraves, you will need to give these a wash with Sugar Soap and a light scuff with sandpaper. Apply one coat of Dulux Oil Based Primer Undercoat (Wunderprime). Allow this to dry for at least 16 hours before applying two coats of Dulux Super Enamel. We would recommend you have as much ventilation in the room as possible while the paint cures, this will help it cure and also help remove the paint odour. Please note, this system will take at least 7 days to fully harden so avoid any unnecessary pressure on the paint for the first week as it could be easily marked by tools or furniture.
Jennie Harmer asks: could you please advise the best way to prepare walls for repainting that have been painting with a high gloss. I am redecorating a 1960 house. Thanks
The existing paint needs to be sound in order for you to paint over it. Assess the existing paint by doing an adhesion test first: cut a small X into the paint, down to the substrate. Apply some quality sellotape over the cut then rip it off. It is important to do this test in several areas as it may have adhered better in some places than others. If the existing paint comes off with the tape, it is not sound so will need to sanded back to a sound surface before painting. If the existing paint does not come off with the tape it is suitable to paint over, you will just need to sand it back to a flat finish first. Apply one coat of Dulux 1 Step Acrylic Primer Sealer Undercoat, allow it to dry for at least 2 hours, then apply two top coats. If the walls are on the exterior of the house, you should use Dulux Weathershield X10, if it is a living area or bedroom we recommend Dulux Wash & Wear. In wet areas such as kitchen, bathroom or laundry we would recommend Dulux Wash & Wear Kitchen & Bathroom.
Bev Lang asks: We are renovating our bathroom. We will tile the wals completely but put vinyl on the floor with an upturn along the walls. What should go down first...tiles or vinyl? How should we finish the lower edge of the tiles where it meets the upturn? Thank you.
The best suggestion is to go into your local tile shop and discuss your project with them. There will be a tile to vinyl trim that you can buy that will join the two. However it all depends on how the trim is installed as to which of the vinyl or tiles you install first.
alecia asks: i live in a three bedroom house where there is no storage areas what so ever. Most stuff i need to storage are in plastic containers under beds or sitting in corners. Have you got any suggestions. The house is 31 years old and it is a universal home? I dont ever have a linen cupboard thats how bad it is.
If you have a decent roof cavity you could look at attic storage, using attic stairs which can be installed relatively easily, however you would need to have an expert look at your roof trusses in your ceiling to assertain whether or not your roof would be able to handle any weight you decide to put up there.
Lisa asks: Hi,
We are looking at buying a new house and have found a beauty, but the kitchen is in dire need of an uplift. We would like to knock down the wall to the laundry which is in a little room next to the kitchen and create an open plan space. My question is what do you think would be an average/ball park price for this type of renovation?
This question is not an easy one to answer, there are so many factors that you would need to take into account. The best way however would be to call a builder and find out what they would charge for the moving of walls. Call a kitchen company and describe what you want, and get them to give you a rough idea of cost. If there is flooring you would need to change out then call someone locally that will be able to give you a price for that. Think about anything else in the room like electrical, plumbing etc call them for an indication. Find out as much information as you can on price and then add 20% to that figure. That would then give you the best indication on price.
DELWYN BAKER asks: WE HAVE A NEW HOME, I WIPED THE FLYPOO OFF THE CELING AND WAS UNAWARE YOU CANT WIPE FLAT CEILING PAINT AND IT HAS LEFT SHINEY MARKS, OUR PAINTER IS HAPPY TO REPAINT IT BUT SAYS HE WILL ONLY REPAINT IN FLAT PAINT AS IT WILL SHOW UP INPERFECTION IF DONE IS A LOW SHEEN, BUT I WANT TO BE ABLE TO WIPE MY CEILING? ANY SUGGESTIONS AS I FIND IT CRAZY NOT BEING ABLE TO CLEAN IT
Your painter is correct in using the matt to cover any imperfections. The reason the marks occur is because the paint used on the ceiling is a water based paint, and in combination with a wet cloth will smear the paint itself. There are a number of paint products in the market that you can get that are wash and wear type paints, so when you wipe it done nothing but the marks come off. Dulux has Wash & Wear 101 which would meet your needs.
David Bennett asks: Hi, our ceiling is stipple, which is a little out dated now. Can i gib straight on top of it or do I have to take down before re gibbing. If I can, how do I go about it.
Thanks David
For a good finish it is best to remove the old ceiling and replace with new linings. It is best to have a company who specialises in the removal of stippled ceilings come in and take a look at it. You may find that it has asbestos in it and you might need to have it removed professionally.
Dennis Lim asks: I have a 2 story house in Lower Hutt but there isn't internal access between the two floors. Are there any issues getting someone to cut a hole in the floor and installing stairs?
In order to do this you will need to have this designed by a structural engineer and passed by the council before any work can start. Once they have passed it you will need to have a qualified builder undertake the work and have the code compliance signed off.
Adam Franklin asks: Hi there, thought I would give you guys a shout about flooring. I am in need of some carpet and tiles. I bought some of that eco strand from carpet court two years ago, but now I find that they chop down miles of rain forest to grow the corn to make it with or something. Anyhow what suggestions do you have for finding a long lasting affordable floor covering and how to get it matched up in my home?
Adam
We would recommend you take a look at Cavalier Bremworth carpets as they come in a range of prices, colours and piles. All Cavalier Bremworth and Bremworth Collection carpets have Environmental Choice New Zealand (ECNZ) certification. They also have ISO 14001 accreditation, demonstrating their commitment to take responsibility for their manufacturing footprint and to continually improve their performance. The company has made a significant investment of resources and funds to ensure its manufacturing processes meet or exceed best practice. The company is actively working on a range of projects to divert used carpet away from landfills.Cavalier Bremworth have a number of dealers around the country that will be able to give you the best idea of match up and price range. Click Here for a dealer near you.
Elizabeth asks: renovating the whole house - have the kitchen completed except for the splashback in kitchen - what else is available and where do i start to look - don't want painted glass if can help - would love mosaic tiles. coming to chch for weekend for ideas
The 3 most common types of splashbacks are Tiles, Glass or a Pre-finished lining. You have already ruled out glass so that really leaves you with 2, mosiac tiles do look great and there are many to choose from in the market, all you have to do is choose some and get a tiler to put them up, you must be aware however that due to food splatter it does become difficult to keep the grout looking good. The second option is a pre-finished lining. James Hardie produces a couple of different linings, there is HardieGlaze Lining which comes in several finishes including 3 tile patterns, or there is Horizon Lining which comes in several different colours. Both of these linings can be purchased from any major hardware merchant and are relatively easy to put up.
tracey asks: is it possible to paint over wallpaper and what is the best way to remove a stipled ceiling effect
Yes it is possible to paint over wallpaper, however painting directly over wallpaper can cause the plasticiser hidden in the wallpaper to migrate through to the topcoats affecting the cure of the coating and leaving a sticky surface. In order to combat this you should use a specifically designed sealer. Your best option is to pop into your local paint store and ask the experts there about the best sealer for your purpose. With stippled ceilings it is best to get in professionals to take a look at it first, as some ceilings have been known to contain asbestos. There are a number of companies out there that specialise in this type of work.
Wayne Bell asks: I have a bathroom project I want to undertake for my elderly parents. Essentially I need to remove a bath tub and reline the whole bathroom, install a shower about 1000x1000. It is a bathroom with an ajoining toilet and would need to stay that way. My question is where to start really. Is it a major removing a bathtub and given the drain is at the opposite end of the room than the shower would be is that also a major?. Ta
Wayne
This is not a major if you employ professional help. Before you start tearing into the wall linings and ripping out baths it is best to consult a plumber in your area. You will need to employ one for the changes in the plumbing by law and they will be able to help with where to start and what needs to happen to move forward with your particular project.
Calvin asks: We have a red brick fireplace in the lounge which would look great painted. Its quite large and a very prominent feature of the room. What advice can you give me on the preparation and paint application etc. The bricks have never been painted. Thanks.
Pleas contact our Drawiing Board partner Dulux for advice on preparation of the brick work and the correct paint to use.
Bev Meredith asks: If you are going to completely renovate your home inside, where is the best place to start. Is it the carpet or the wallpaper? It is such a big decision that I don't know where to start.
The best way to start is to look at what areas are going to need the most work and what areas when worked on are going to destroy other areas in the process, for example if you are going to move walls and change out kitchens, you don't want to put carpet or flooring in first. If you are looking at changing the structure of the house, for example move walls or extend exterior walls you need to contact an architect or architectural designer first to see if what you are proposing is feasable. If it is just a matter of replacing existing kitchens, and bathroom fixtures it really is a case of what needs the most attention first and what you can afford. To use your example of the wallpaper and the carpet, you should look at the destruction theory, you do not want to wallpaper or paint a house once new carpet is down, you have the hassle of masking it up and taking the risk that nothing is going to drop on it and ruin it. Keep in mind that in a new house build the last thing to go into a home is the carpet.
Marie asks: Hi there, I was wanting to gain more storage space in my 1980 built house and have a ceiling space above a family room
( the entrance is from an upstairs bedroom wardrobe). Is it permissible to line this space with some type of flooring board and store items in here? Thanks
It would be advisable to have a structural designer or engineer look at the cavity before you venture into this as most homes do not have the ceiling structure to hold any loads on the trusses, they are only designed to hold the roof up. If you go ahead and put some form of flooring into the ceiling cavity and fill it with household items, you may find that your ceiling will colapse.
Brett Taylor asks: Hi
We have a Fraemohs home (http://www.fraemohs.co.nz/) thats about 30 years old and while we like the look of timber, we dont like it absolutely EVERYWHERE! We are keen to line the interior walls with some sort of sheet product like Villaboard, but have heard that we cant just glue the boad to the walls because the natural movement in the solid timber will cause it to crack, So just wondering what sheet product you would recomend (including what we should use for wet areas like bathrooms) and also how we could/should fix it to the walls?
Thanks heaps in advance
Brett
The best option is to fix square edge Villaboard with a combination of adhesive and screws. Fix screws at 300mm c/c along the edges and middle of sheet with daubs of adhesives in between. The joints between the boards should allow for a gap 3-6mm which can be filled with a flexible sealant.
steve asks: My architect has specified Hardi panel compressed sheet in the bathrooms of our new house. The floors will be tiled. The builder has laid ply and says its just as good. Is this correct ?
thanks
Steve
Ply is a wood based alternative to the Fibre Cement flooring. With ply you need to ensure that the bathrooms is fully waterproofed and you have to have a Tile and Slate Underlay over the ply to reduce movement which could lead to tile cracking, with compressed you can tile directly over the ply. I would definitely recommend Compressed sheet over ply it is more stable, it is a thicker product (it starts out as a 24mm thick product and is compressed down to 18mm) it is also resistant to permanent water damage if installed and maintained correctly. When is your bathroom being completed? James Hardie is about to release another flooring product to the market which is 25% lighter than James Hardie compressed sheet, faster to install and it reduces materials like Tile and Slate Undelay, you also have the benefit of less trades to site unlike Ply and Tile & Slate combinations.
Katie asks: how do I get the OLD stcky gum off the wooden floor after scraping up 70's vinyl?
is there a magic brilliant product that will dissolve it?
tried ados
turps meths nail polish remover
makeup remover
eucalyptus oil
tea tree oil
peanut butter margarine jif canola oil vaseline baby oil gel salt baking soda coke saw dust flour gib plaster dust pencil eraser?
Unfortunately that query is not something that our experts have knowledge on. Our suggestion is to contact several flooring companies for their opinion on the matter, they may also sell a product that can get it off.
Michelle Thomas asks: Hi there,
Can you please advise the best way to make a dark hallway until a bright, light area?
Your help is much appreciated.
Warm Regards
Michelle
A natural alternative to adding light to a dark hallway is to put in some form of skylight or solatube, some companies have some really stylish ones. Best you take a look at Hometech or Velux.
Cristina asks: Hi, I own a circa 1930's bungalow which has scrim and sarking and clad in weatherboard. I am wanting to insulate the walls when I re-gib but wondering whether the fact that there is no building paper between the cladding and the bracing will be a problem. Thanks Cristina
This is something that needs further expertise to answer, please call Pink Batts on 0800 Pink Batts for a comprehensive answer.
ryan asks: Do I have to get a permitt to put stairs in my house, It is a house half into a hill,so full house upstairs with two rooms down stairs with access thru a down stairs door.
Yes, all structural work must be designed by a professional and consented by your local territory authority.
Blair Cotching asks: Evening,
We have stippled ceilings and woul dlike to know the best of way of getting rid of them. We have been told 3 options: 1 to GIB over the top, 2 to remove the ceiling and re-GIB, or 3 to sand the stipple and re-plaster it. What option is the best and what option is the cheapest (including time)?
Thanks,
Blair
There are a couple of factors to take into consideration with your question. Firstly it depends on what look you are trying to achieve. If you are looking for a flat painted finish you would be best to re-line the ceiling, you could achieve a great look using James Hardie Villaboard. But if you want a textured look it would be best to remove the original stipple and re-texture. If you are wanting to re-line the ceiling, it would be best if you removed the original ceiling first and replaced it will a new lining rather than lining over the existing. In terms of cost I would suggest that you contact a recoating specialist in your area and ask them to provide you with a quote. If you are looking to do it yourself, it all depends on what you deem your cost of time to be. A suggestion however would be that you make sure that the stipple on your ceiling does not contain any asbestos and that all the proper precautions are taken to minimise safety risks.
gayleen asks: i am going to wallpaper and would like a feature wall, what is a good way in choosing? there are just so many
The best way that I have found when choosing wallpaper is to take in a piece of fabric you like or a cushion, something that reflects colours, tones etc from the house you are putting the wallpaper in. This way you have something to work from when choosing. Perhaps a visit to a Resene colour shop and a chat with their staff would help you.
Gerard asks: Can you reccomend a home insulation company
We would recommend the Pink Batts Pinkfit program.
Tracy asks: Hi there,
We have a large, lovely rumpus room downstairs, rather like a second lounge that also unfortunately serves as the utility space. I really would love to get the laundry part enclosed separately, which would involve building a couple of interior walls within the existing room, and putting an internal doorway into one of them as access.
Having never renovated before, we have no idea if we need to get any sort of permission to achieve this, or even if we need to call upon anyone other than a registered builder? Please can you advise where we should even start as we are completely clueless.
As there are different rules for different councils, we would suggest you give the building consent division of your council a call. They will be able to tell you what you can and can't do to your home with or without planning permission.
stacey asks: Hi there,
we are renovating our 1920's bungalow, the house has been completely gutted. i am so confused about sevral things, firstly... How much does one expect to pay for a modest kitchen? with an island ? we have 5 children so stain,scratch crack, resistant are important. durability a must, and look that wont be quick to date?
also how many kitchen quotes would you recomend?....
weve been told our rimu floors wont be suitable for sanding, should we get a certified sander in to decide? would it cost more than its worth? what is the next best thing to natural wood when you have kids aged 13 to 6mths?
many thanks
Kitchens care vary greatly. An economical option would be a flatpack kitchen that Matt and Rowena used in The Drawing Board. This was sourced from http://www.stewart-scott.co.nz/. As for flooring, carpets from Cavalier Bremworth are also a great idea with kids.
Suzanne Pinfold asks: We are considering installing a through wall heat transfer fan to distribute heat from our lounge (fire place heated) through to our hall (aiming down towards our bedrooms). We don't have a ceiling cavity in our lounge to directly transfer heat into the bedrooms. However we've been told these through wall fans can be noisy (given the fan is right there in the lounge). Can you please give us your advice on the effectiveness and noise levels of through wall heat transfer systems?
Thanks very much.
You could get in touch with www.hrv.co.nz and see what systems they have available.
Lynda Dixon asks: I own a 1960's brick clad home with wooden windows that has no wall insulation. In order to add insulation is it cheaper to reclad the exterior or reline the interior? I'm not keen to use the foam insulation that gets squirted into the wall.
It is easier and cheaper to reline the interior to install the insulation.
Hi, We are building a new house and currently the upstairs bathroom sits partially above the master bedroom. Is this a terrible idea in terms of noise? Also, what are your thoughts on locating the hot water cupboard in the main bathroom - inadvisable? Useful? Doesn't matter? We quite like the idea, and it works really well in terms of available space, but we do have to consider resale. Thanks in advance!
It is better to avoid having a bathroom exactly over the bed room but if you can’t then talk to a designer and he can suggest ways to reduce noise. The water heater can be located in the bathroom cupboard.
Hi, We are building a new house which will include a small foyer. What are the minimum dimension's you'd recommend, and also the minimum you'd go to for a hallway? Many thanks!
There is no minimum or maximum size for the foyer. This will need to be considered on the basis of the existing structure you have. You should discuss this with your designer.
Su asks: We are renovating and want to move out our meter board (with internal electricity meter) off an internal wall as it's being removed. What is the process for this?
This is definitely one for the professionals. Call your local electrician. NRG is a nationwide franchise 0800 NRG 123.
Emma asks: We have just stripped the old wallpaper in our room of our 1940's home and have found the walls are quite cut up with shallow scratches and fibre coming out of the boards. We were planning to paint, will this then require complete re-plastering of the walls head to toe? (first home decorators!) or will re-wallpapering be the way to go??
Without seeing it, it is hard to say. However, whether you are painting or wallpapering you will still require a smooth finish (wallpapering is a little more forgiving). We recommend you coat all walls with a pigment sealer. This will bind all loose and fibrous materials. Then get a good stopper in to skim all the walls. Once dry, prime and then paint.
Kathryn asks: Is there an easy way to tell if an internal wall is load bearing? Can you tell by looking in the roof space? I'm toying with some ideas about renovating a kitchen space and would like to get an idea of whether the wall I would like to get rid of has to stay or not.
Getting in the roof space will give you an idea but you really need to check this with a designer or engineer by showing him the old drawings of the house
Jo Main asks: We have an 8yr old home and the tiling flooring has cracked in a number of places. Where/who do we get to advise us on what to do to? We think we need independent advice from some one who knows about such things.
There can be many reasons that tiled flooring can crack ranging from the structural integrity of the substrate, inexperienced tiling application to incorrect choice of adhesive or tile. You could contact your local Tile Warehouse store who have experienced sales consultants who should be able to find out a little more information about the project and help to find a solution.
I need to replace the cold water pipe from the meter through to all cold water pipes in the wall, as it is all rusted. Are the products Bunnings and mitre 10 up to standard for this, etc [blue pipe]
The products sold by the merchants or imported by them into NZ should comply with the local standards. Check with the store.
Peter Metcalfe asks: I want to extend an internal wall into a room for 1200 mm for decorative reasons. A friend has told me I should just nail or coach bolt the bottom horizontal length of framing straight onto the carpet in order to not have to restretch and refix the carpet edges afterwards which I would have to do if I cut the carpet to fit the framing. I am worried about the carpet shrinking or desintegrating over time and causing the join between the new wall and the existing wall to crack. Is it common to do what my friend has suggested? What should I do? Thanks very much
Because the wall is for decorative purposes and not load bearing it will be fine to fix direct over the carpets. It can then be removed at a later date if necessary. If it is not removed the carpet can be suitably cut at time of replacement. Ensure timber is very dry and bolt down as hard as possible to compress the carpet.
Robyn asks: Gas v electricity? We have to move an outside gas hot water cylinder and are considering dumping the gas altogether as the monthly line charge renders any savings of gas hot water v electric hot water of no effect. Are there any savings to be had with retaining gas hot water? What about instant hot water? Cheaper than heating with electric?
Take a look at this website. Smarter Homes It should answer your queries.
R.Reedy asks: I need to turn off hot water cylinder but there is no turn off valve. There is a header tank in roof but when I turned off valve hot water still ran out off tap. Do i have to run the hotwater out before I can fix washer in Kitchen taps.
The water can be turned off from the main water meter and run the water from the hot water tap till it stops.
Alison Ross asks: I have a tiled hall way with marble tiles in the centre surrounded by a pink tile. I want to change the pink tiles and have heard it's possible to have them painted rather than removed and retiled. Can you direct me to a company who does this. Regards Alison
We do not recommend for natural marble tiles to be “painted”, particularly in heavy traffic areas such as hallways. However rather than removing, you may be able to tile directly over the top of these particular tiles with the correct adhesive selection. Please call or contact your nearest Tile Warehouse showroom for more information.
Carla Thompson asks: My mother owns a very old home with high ceillings 10ft and all native trims. It has scrim and mess lining. We are in the process of insulating and gibbing 1 room at a time. How do we take the skirting, architraves, door frames and window framing off without spliting them as they are all native timber and very brittle.
Your best option to remove the skirting and architraves is to try push them out nearest the nails. As these nails may have been rusted by now they can be hard to remove. Don’t rush.
Liz asks: Help! Never have I seen a Lockwood Home renovation in and mag or online and I need some help - please! We moved into our 1980's Lockwood Home which is warm, dry, cosy and we love it. However with that it is very dark due to the wood on every wall and ceiling. It is stained a honey colour. We would love to renovate this and were thinking of gibbing but some people have said this would ruin the Lockwood look. We want to keep the wooden, cosy feel but modernise it all too. We had thought about sanding but this I think would drive us insane as it would be a huge job. Plus in the kids room they want to put their own mark with their own colours. We went down to Rotorua and saw the new eco showhome which has whitewashed wooden walls which we adore but think this would be impossible. Please if you have any tips or advise we would really really appreciate it! Thanks and great website by the way! Liz and John.
There is no easy fix in this case. You're only option to lighten it up is to paint it. Even a feature wall or two would brighten it up some. Why not get in touch with Dulux and find out the process of painting over the walls. You might be pleasantly suprised.
Leeanne Phillips asks: Our house was built in the early 60's and still has the original fire place with brick surround but has a big old gas heater sitting in it. Would it be feasible to remove the current heater, brickwork and mantlepiece then break through the wall into the chimney space to make a niche with shelving for electronics?
Yes, this can be done provided the structural stability of the wall is not affected.
MR asks: We've looked at a house we may purchase that has gorgeous woodend floor, however, someone has painted ducks on the wooden floor (a border) about the kitchen perimeter. Is there a way to safely remove the painted on ducks without sanding down the floor and redoing it? They are bright pink and blue ducks in an otherwise updated and fantastic kitchen.
It depends on what paint was used to paint the ducks on. If it was artist paint methylated spirits and a bear-tex scouring pad may remove it but will take a lot of rubbing and may take the gloss of the floor and still leave some colouration on the floor. Best to take the price of sanding and redoing the floor into the buy price.
Kate asks: Hi, We are currently in the process of redecorating and putting up new wallpaper, of which we will get a decorator to do for us. He advised us to remove all the wallpaper back to the original lining. The top layer came off brilliantly but the second layer as been put up on unsealed paperfaced board. Do you know an easy way to remove it? We have already removed some so am presuming that we had better remove it all. It's a nightmare!! Thanks, Kate
Hire a wallpaper steamer from a hire place or Bunnings, ask how to use it - this is the only way to remove very suborned wallpapers. Take your time and do it bit by bit. If the wallpaper is painted it will stop the steam getting through to the soften the glue, if so you will need a paper tiger - little hand tool from paint and paper store , hardware store may have them - you run this all over the wallpaper and it makes holes for the steam to get through and so soften the glue.
Angela asks: We currently have hallway that is approx 132cm wide. We are looking at buidling a cupboard along a wall in the hallway. What do recommend should be the maximum depth of the cupboard ? How can i ensure that the hallway doesn't look tiny and dark afterwards ? thanks heaps angela
The width of the hallway is already narrow so you don't really want to be taking any more space for the cupboard. Another option would be to cut an opening and take space from one of the rooms around the hallway. To lighten it up you can use a sola tube to extract the natural light from sky. Take a look at Solamate from HRV
Mattie Ryan asks: Our floor is covered with old style lino which is almost impossible to lift off the wooden floor. I assume is was laid years ago with some kind of adhesive. Is there any solvent or trick you can advise on to help remove. Currently it is only coming off inch by inch painstakeingly.
This is a real pain with no easy answer sorry. Try using a heat gun and scrape it back when the glue loosens off. Good luck!
John Graham asks: We are intending to build a home and are interested in using one of your exterior weatherboards, for example Colonial profile, internally on some walls of the rooms. The style would suit our desired effect. What do you think? thanks, John.
That is a great idea. We have had our exterior products used internally in the past to create feature walls and points of difference. The installation would be as per normal in a dry area, in wet areas careful consideration should be made when the product is installed. When you get to this stage please contact our technical team for more advice on 0800 808 868.
Kellie Beaumont asks: Hi, I really like the storage system you have used in the laundry of the featured renovation. Can you tell me where I could get it from in West Auckland?
These are available from your local HomePlus store. See the HomePlus website. They can come to you to do a free measure and quote.
Opura Takatainga asks: Hi. Do i need to consult with a architect or designer if i want to take a wall out or could just consult with a builder?
We strongly recommend you to talk to a designer/engineer regarding removing the wall before undertaking any works.
Louisa & Ron Allwood asks: Our 30 year old home has a hutch separating the kitchen and dining room, can we open up the hutch and extend it by cutting out to the upright supports which are about 200 mm away from the hutch? without planning permission. We would be leaving the height the same, but lowering the bottom of the hutch to the top of the kitchen workbench. We need to get a new bench, we want to know what is the cheapest material we could use? Thank you Luisa & Ron
This separation between the kitchen and dining room maybe supporting the roof. You need to check it with the council first. If it is not providing any structural support to the house then it is easy to remove it. The cheapest material for the bench top is laminated MDF boards.
siobhan asks: we are looking at reno a 1942 brick house. how do you get the building paper on when you take the plaster board off pls?
I assume you are asking about how to remove the building paper from the plaster board.? The paper can be removed by using a specific steaming tool. You should contact the tool shop or hire shop for this.
Anna Scott asks: We are purchasing a 1950's property to run our office from, it is a serious do up! Like everyone, we have limited funds for this. I have renovated before but have never tackled wallpaper. I would appreciate tips on how to remove very old wallpaper and preperation tips for new. I would prefer to paint, but think it would cost too much to get the walls to paint standard.
Use a scouring tool to puncture the wallpaper. Then wet walls down with wallpaper remover, Shelly’s Liquid soap or similar. Use a broad knife or similar to scrap back wallpaper. Preparation is key. Fill any cracks or imperfections and sand with 100 grit sandpaper. Ensure you have smooth, clean, dry and well sized walls to ensure wallpaper adhesion.
Warren asks: I want to put an internal stairwell to the basement. Would I need a permit?
This is not something that we can answer for you unfortunately. It is dependant on too many things. The best thing to do is call your local council.
siobhan asks: If you remove plasterboard and want to put batts in, you do not push them up against bricks. You push them towards the building paper which keeps the batts off the bricks so they insulate and do not transmit the cold from the bricks into the house. How do you get the building paper (or wrap) in a 1942 house which never had it without pulling all the bricks off.
You cannot use a building paper, but you can easily insert a tight fit insulation in the wall framing by keeping the cavity between the brick and frame open.
Helen Monti asks: We have a huge project at our very ugly house; everything needs renovating! My boyfriend is a builder, so we've got the 'bones' work sorted, but where do I start with choosing decor? I have heaps of ideas, but I want everything to tie together; not just a mish mash of rooms. Also, how do I choose drapes? Pleats? Blinds? Nets? Etc? It's SO expensive, and must work with everything else! Eeeeeek! Helen :-D
An interior designer is worth their weight in gold. In the long run they can actually help you save money. Making the right choices first up and saving on costly mistakes. This option allows you have your decor plan from the outset and then you can purchase when money comes available. Try Sonya Cotter from Sonya Cotter Design - info@sonyacotterdesign.co.nz
Camille asks: We have an open plan living room but would like to put in a foyer or at least an entrance of some sort to separate when people come in from the rest of the living room. What do you suggest?
Speak to the professionals. Get someone around who can look at your property and make an informed decision. You can get a designer from www.adnz.co.nz.
mike parkee asks: I want to remove a cupboard with platerboard walls. Is it just a case of cutting through the plasterboard at the junction of wall, ceiling and floorboards. Or is it more complicated than that?
It depends where you're cutting. If you are close to a junction, it is better to cut to the joint and fix a new board. It is not that complicated. The end finish of the job depends upon the skill level.
Irene Newbold asks: We are looking at a property to buy that is high set with the ground floor being a one bed self contained flat. The flooring is chip board with carpet, the problem being that when walking across part of the upstairs floor you can hear squeeking and thumping from footsteps.
You can stop squeaking by using screws to fix the floor boards. Use thicker underlay under the carpet. This should help in reducing the thumping noise. See www.cavbrem.co.nz for more information.
Pam asks: I have a cedar townhouse built in the 70's which is on an elevated site. I am currently repainting the interior as there cracks in the gib. Having cleared and replastered with crack areas then repainted it looked great for about six months but the cracks are starting to reappear. I accept that there is a degree of ground movement with the different seasons which is presumably causing movement within the house but is there anything that can be done to remedy this problem?
There is possibly a movement being created either by thermal expansion of cedar or wind pressures etc. or it could be the way it was plastered? Check with plasterboard supplier regarding plastering.
Robo asks: What type of covering can I apply to the wall of a house in a conservatory? The present wall is like a dense hardboard weatherboard made by Pinex many years ago.
You can either use pre-finished wall linings like Horizon Lining or HardieGlaze Lining or use Villaboard Lining provides a substrate for tiles or painted finish.
Karen asks: Hi, I've just purchased a1920's bungalow and would like to choose a carpet to go with the kauri floors and half tea walls we have 2 kids so it can't be too light and 2 cats so want cut pile what would you suggest please? Also were can I find info on styles of the 1920's please. thanks, Karen
Try Cavalier Bremworth. Their newly released Picotage range might be just what you need – it is a cut pile with a unique salt and pepper effect which gives more interest on the floor and has what we would term great ‘soil hiding’ properties because it’s not a flat colour. The link below will show you the product and its full colour range and you can now order samples direct through their website or get these from one of their warranted dealers. Angus Tweed is a heathered yarn cut pile that may also work for you. Simply visit www.cavbrem.co.nz and use the product finder to the right to view these or their ‘browse catalogue’ function to flip through the entire range. In relation to styles from the 1920s, at that point highly patterned woven carpets and rugs were the vogue. I think Google will definitely be your best reference point to source images from that era.
Adrienne asks: Hi. We have a 1940's bungalow. Many of the walls are still sarking and scrim. We have installed under floor "Expol" and now we want to insulate two bedroom walls before winter. Can you please tell me the best way to go about this, in order to achieve maximum warmth? We don't want to go to minimum effort and inject a foam in if we compromise the level of insulation we end up with Should we be removing the scrim and the sarking and insulating with batts? Will we need to also install building paper if once everything is removed we are just left with the weatherboards? Any help would be much appreciated as the more I read online the more confused I become about what is the best solution! Thank you
You can install the insulation by removing the lining, in case you dont want to use to remove the cladding and recladd. A hydrophobic (which doesn't absorb water) type insulation can be used in this case. Try www.Pinkbatts.co.nz for more information.
Rachel asks: Hi, A section of my wallpaper is coming away at the seam and when I press on it it caves in. I am loathe to press any harder in case it makes a hole! Other sections of the wallpaper in the room are ok but only this particular part. Do you know what might be causing this? The room nextdoor is a neighbour's bedroom. It was professionall wallpaperd at least 4 years ago and it is a 70's townhouse. Any assistance you can offer would be appreciated.
It appears that the board under the wall paper is damaged. It should be looked at by a plasterer.
Tina Mitchell asks: We have a 1970s modulock house (like lockwood but with vertical panels). What can we use to line the walls on top of the wood panels? Ideally we want something thin so that the skirting boards and carpet are not affected too much. Any suggestions would be great!
You should use 6mm Villaboard Lining to line the walls.
Keri Steventon asks: Hi We are currently removing our existing concrete fire hearth, which was poured straight on timber floor(supported underneath with piles). We require to know which hardie product is ideal to lay on existing timber floor, prior to new cement pad to be laid. Hope you can help. Regards
You can use Hardipanel compressed sheet 18mm under a free standing fire place. It should be covered with ceramic tiles or hearth board.
Angela Prosser asks: I am currently painting 2 internal doors. I spent a good amount of time sanding and preparing them both in the same way. Now that I have begun painting, one is looking great, but the other one has patches on one side where the paint is cracking, so ot looks like 'crazy paving'. What caused this? And what do I do about it??!
This is quite a specific request and we really need to know a bit more - are the doors bear timber or painted surface? What paint is being used oil or water based? How old are the doors? With out this info hard to give a correct answer of what would cause this as there could be a number of reasons; Could be wax or silicone from furniture polish. If the doors have just been sanded and not stripped then there could be silicone from furniture polish still present which could make the paint give a crazy paving effect, not smooth. Or if there is still a old coating on the doors the solvent in the paint they are applying may soften it and cause it to move a bit giving a crazy paving look. Or could be if using oil based paint, that they have applied a second coat of paint before the first coat has dried enough, (which can happen inside with not much air movement) and the solvent in the paint they are applying has soften the first coat in parts causing it to wrinkle a bit giving a crazy paving look. All cases the paint will stay wrinkled, will need to remove it and make sure there is a clean sound surface for repainting. If you would like a more specific response please contact Dulux bevan.tutty@dulux.co.nz.
Vicki asks: We are wanting to convert internal garage to rumpus/gym room containing a shower and toilet and changing garage door to glass sliders. How do we go about the design etc.
If you're looking for someone to take the job from design to completion, we recommend contacting Smith and Sons. You can visit them at www.smithandsons.co.nz or phone them on 0800 764842. If you're just wanting a designer for now, we recommend looking at ADNZ. They list their designers at www.adnz.co.nz.
Jude Catley asks: In your bathroom renovation, what price were the laundry doors?
These came from HomePlus and were approximately $1,000. HomePlus come to your home to do a free measure and quote.
Jeff asks: Can you help me select a suitable adhesive for James Hardie's Ezi-Grid Tile Underlay please. Substrate being existing T&G timber floor boards.
EziGrid Tile Underlay is no longer manufactured by James Hardie. They do supply another flooring product, Tile and Slate Underlay in two sizes. 1800 x 1200 and 1800 x 600. A solvent based adhesive like Max Bond, No More Nails, Sika 11 FC etc can be used. When fixing over solid timber like T&G using adhesive in conjunction with annular grooved nails is optional.
Phil Watson asks: What is the best way to lift ceramic tiles from concrete floor. thanks
Unfortunately there is no easy way. First of all take the grout out. Then it’s the chisel or a spade and a lot of hard work. Most of the tiles will break so don’t expect to be able to save them. If you’re putting tiles back down, you’ll need to grind back the concrete so you have a good surface for the next lot of tiles to adhere to.
Brigitte McIntosh asks: We are a couple approaching 50, and recently brought our first home. The home was well maintained by previous owners but the interior colors and kitchen are rather dated. We have large open plan living/kitchen area separated by the usual island bar (this we dont mind - it defines the two areas nicely). However the kitchen section of wall is divided by 'picture rail', wall paper above and wallboard below, the wall board is the type that was often used in bathrooms and on counter tops! We want to live in the house for a couple of years first before renovating the kitchen. But we want to freshen what we have with paint. Can this type of board be painted? Is there some sort of preparation/product that can be used that will allow us to paint it? . We would also like to paint the kitchen cupboards and drawers, they are a thin board with a faux wood grain, similar to formica. Many thanks for any suggestions you might have.
Clean the area with Selleys Sugar Soap to remove all surface dirt, then undercoat with Dulux Primerlock (this is a primer made to stick to hard to stick surfaces similar to formica) then top coat with Dulux Wash & Wear, and cupboards and drawers with Dulux Aquanamel.
Marlene asks: We have a leaking cold water tap over our bath and want to change the washer. We have a header tank. My question is, do we have to climb into the ceiling to turn off header tank as well as at the mains? Dumb question , I guess but don't fancy climbing into the ceiling, really!
If the bath tap is connected to the header tank, than yes you will have to turn it off at the tank, it could be that the cold water to the cylinder is gravity fed so that will mean the hot water to all the outlets is possibly from the header tank, the cold water how ever could be mains supplied and this will have to be turned off at the street. The way to check if your hot water cylinder is gravity fed is to check under the hot water cylinder and if there are reducing valves under there then it is low pressure if there is not then it is gravity. Check the pressure at a hose tap on the outside and compare it to the bath tap it could be mains or equal low pressure.
Kylie Ward asks: Hi I live in Totara Heights in Manukau and am painting - I am looking for a color consultant to help choose paint colors and get a good opinion - can you recommend a good person thanks kylie
Hi Kylie, You can book a Dulux colour consultant here
John Jamieson asks: How do I remove a strip of no more nails adhesive
The best option is to use turpentine.
Kam Kamath asks: We have a early 80s brick & tile house with million dollar sea views. We plan on retrofitting this house into a modern house. Don't know where to start.
Firstly, take a look at our Getting Started section of this website. Start collecting ideas you like from magazines. You can talk to builders to get ideas. Smith and Sons are renovation experts and do free quotes. Click on Get a Quote on this website and we can get someone out to you to help.
Desiree De Courcy asks: Hi. I have just discovered your website which looks great as we are about to start renovating our bungalow. We have an idea of the design we want to achieve but are not sure if we need an architect or if we only need an architectural designer. My question is do you have any architects or architectural designers that you would recommend in Auckland for a traditional bungalow? Thanks
We would recommend contacting NZIA or ADNZ. For an explaination of these organisations visit Getting Started section of this website.
Roni Martin asks: I am trying to work out a colour scheme for my new build house. How do I do this without employing the services of an expensive interior designer?
Try a Dulux Colour Consultant. They're a cost effective option. Book one here.
