Exterior Questions & Answers

Richard Hall asks: I have a circa 1940's railway bungalow in hamilton that is clad in weatherboard, some of which are rotten. I want to board and batten. Do I need to remove all the existing weatherboards or can I clad over the top?

Cheers

Richard

Hi Richard   I would recommend that you remove the existing cladding first.  This also provides you with an opportunity to ascertain framing condition and upgrade insulation if required.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Lena Hayward asks: The area in front of our front door is old red aggregate. There are a couple of cracks that we want to fix, and would also like to resurface the area. What type of resurfacing would be suitable? The level can't be raised much as it is already about the same level as the inside floor. Many thanks for your help, kind regards, Lena.

Hi Lena   You would need to contact a specialist in this area as the cracking pending moderate to extreme may require more than just a patchup as a long term solution rather then a short term intermediate solution. Rod from concrete direct may be able to give you an idea on the aggregate issue going forward.   The James Hardie Team

Amla asks: I have a 1 double bedroom and 1 single bedroom brick and tile house. If I have space around the house, is it possible to add 2 more bedrooms to the single level house?

Hi Amla   This is hard to comment on without seeing the propertyy. I would recomend that you talk to the council first as to the minimum ground clearance allowed to build on.   The James Hardie Team  

Melanie asks: On hot days after frosts on the west side of my property i seem to get really damp walls this happens in two of the bedrooms as well as the toilet which is the middle of the two rooms. I have had a plumber come who has advised that it is not plumbing. I have a dvs system also. What can I do to recitify this problem?

Hi Melanie   It appears to be condensation forming on the wall. This could be due to poor insulation in the wall cavity. It certainly needs to be looked at closely. I suggest that you check the construction of the wall and what materials have been used.   The James Hardie Team

Virginia asks: Hi - we have just had a builders report done on a house we are in the process of purchasing. It is a brick and weatherboard 1970's 2 storey house. Unfortunately, the exterior is in need of quite a bit of TLC - roof restoration, repainting, and balconies need attention. To give me a better idea of what costs would be involved, I have a few questions. It has 4 balconies (all 3-4m wide) with the decks being fibrolite. They have cracking through the fibrolite and would need a tidy up and waterproofing, also all balustrades need replacing to bring them up to standard. What kind of figure are we looking at to do that kind of work? I don't know if this is going to cost us $5,000 or $15,000. Also, the bottom of one of the roof timber fascia boards is rotten - is this a big job to replace/fix? (I'm not sure of the logistics entailed in doing this) Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Virginia   This is a hard question to answer.  A builder should be consulted on site to give a more accurate estimate of costs etc.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Susan Francis asks: I own an cement old workers cottage in Pohara, Golden Bay circ: 1940. It is clad in fibro cement tiles. Is it possible to reclad over the existing materials or should I get them tested for asbestos first?

Hi Susan   If it is a James Hardie product we changed formulation in 1982 – 83.  Refer to www.osh.govt.nz for handling instructions etc.  If it's a profiled product, it would need to be removed prior to recladding.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Anne asks: We have an older Lockwood home. The inside wood is fairly dark. I have heard that there is a polyurethane with a white stain. Can the wood be painted with this to lighten it?

Hi Anne   You would need to check with a polyurethane manufacturer concerning the use and viability of what’s to be achieve.   The James Hardie Team

Sarah Ellison-Jones asks: Can a home clad with 'rockcote' be re-clad with linear board?

Hi Sarah   Best building practice is to remove the existing cladding (the ‘rockcote’ & backing board used) before recladding..   The James Hardie Team

Ross asks: I want to re clad an old garage with weatherboards and turn it into a workshed. How much mer sq metre should I allow for.
1. The actual weatherboards
2. Install fees

Many Thanks, Ross

Hi Ross   This is quite a difficult question to answer.   It really depends on a couple of things:   1. The type of weatherboards used 2. Different install fees for each builder 3. Shape of your garage   The on the wall cost less coating is approx $115.00 - 125.00 pending cavity construction and accessories od choice The best thing to go is to get a builder to have a look at your garage and they will be in the best position to give an estimate.   The James Hardie Team

Tony Davies asks: Is it possible to put battens on top of polystyrene/plaster and weatherboard over? The house has soffits, the smallest is about 200mm, and obviously windows and doors will need re-installing with wider reveals but is it necessary to remove the plaster? The house is not a leaker but the stigma of plaster lives on.

Hi Tony   You cannot fix the battens into ply alone as it does not have any holding power. So you will need to remove the poly and then fix the cladding to the frame.  For more information on this I would recommend contacting a builder in your area.   The James Hardie Team

frank wilson asks: I'm replacing exterior direct fixed weatherside cladding with smooth weatherboard which the local authority requires to be cavity fixed.
Do you have flashing details to aluminium windows now that the weather boards are further out than the aluminium frame.
thanks

Hi Frank   We unfortunatly do not have these flashing details.  I might want to consider rerplacing your current windows with deeper frames to accomodate the thicker walls.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Viv Proffitt asks: We built our home 15 years ago, it has James Hardie Rusticated Hardiplank painted Walnut stain (Mist Green joinery). We are going to add on a bathroom and a sunroom extension, we are looking at cladding the additions in something different and looking for suggestions. Thank you

Hi Viv   Generally we would recommend a flat sheet like Scyon Axon Panel or Titan Façade Panel.  I can recommend you go to the showhomes website where we show mixed composite built homes.  I would also recommend you go to our website where you can also find very usefull information.   http://www.tvshowhomes.co.nz/ http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/ Regards The James Hardie Team

Joyce asks: Hi
We have a 1940's/1950's Art Deco house which has been damaged in the Christchurch earthqauke. It has a stucco finish and a wooden frame. The stucco has some cracks. one area of bulging and the paint is coming away in places. Our main concern is that the exterior walls now move. First just one and now all sides. Have been informed that stucco naturally moves but I am a little confused as it didn't before. Any suggestions, advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Joyce   I suggest that you seek the advice of an independant building consultant as this could be structural not just plaster.  Plaster is normally tied to building with spacers and mesh nailed back to building.  These may have broken in the earthquake.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Phil Lister asks: house built 1970 approx. has split level. area underneth contains a bed room and a large garage workshop area. A solid clay bank is just over 1.5m from the bedroom wall but under the floor of the living space above. I want to use the space behind to add a bathroom to sevice the bedroom.
Q what type of wall must i build close to or against the clay bank?

Hi Phil   You can build a timber frame exterior wall for this area. However you will need to get a consent for this.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Robin asks: I have repaired a broken Summit Stone fence by replacing some of the bricks. The summit stone bricks in the fence are coloured "Antique White", and so I used "Antique White" mortar.
The colour of the existing mortar looks different, more of a cream colour, and may have originally been "Antique Cream".
Is it possible to paint the new mortar pointing to match the existing mortar colour, and if so, how do I go about it, and what product should I use?

Hi Robin   This may not necessarily be the case, the mortar may have simply over time degraded in colour. As far as painting the mortar to match, if the mortar is porous then paint has a better chance of adhesion, if not the paint may initially adhere only to peel or blister later.. you would need to check with the manufacturer of the mortar, otherwise if there is an "antique cream” mortar you could after further advice from the manufacturer and if there is enough allowance try to skim  over what you’ve done (would be better to remove some in order to put a decent skim back).   Regards The James Hardie Team

frank wilson asks: My house has a hardboard type sheet cladding with a vertical plank look which needs to be replaced.
I'm thinking of axon sheeting or weatherboard but the local authority is going to require a wall cavity.
Do you have flashing details for flashing back to existing aluminium windows?
It's single storey and I'd like to smarten it up any suggestions on which cladding

Hi Frank   Unfortunately without changing the windows to meet the new profile and depth of the cavity you would be looking at an alternative solution. You may wish to check/question BRANZ for a weathertight solution or WANZ (Window Association of New Zealand) for alternative solutions. Otherwise the alternative would be to replace the existing window frame if not move the window out to meet the new profile/depth and extend the window frame. The requirement for a cavity batten should be based on the ‘risk matrix’ calculation within the E2/AS1. The other reason for cavity batten requirement could also be the choice of cladding selected i.e. a cladding that is specified by a manufacturer such as James Hardie for a type of cavity batten construction option only such as Titan Façade Panel, ExoTec Façade Panel, Stria Cladding, Shingleside Panel, Monotek Sheet or HardieBacker Substrate. The Market today leans toward a mix of products such as Axon Panel off setting Linea Weatherboard (feature walls). On a single storey dwelling this can be quite attractive pending the layout.   Regards The James Hardie Team

john hart asks: I'm tiling over exterior concrete steps.the steps are irregular and will need to be plastered to straighten and level them. What cement based product will be best for this if laying tiles within a couple of days of repair work

Hi John   May I recommend you get in touch with the Tile Warehouse as they might be better suited to answer your question.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Ivan Groot asks: We have rusticated direct fix weatherboard of shiplap profile and we cannot locate a plug profile that fits this. It needs to be a perfect 45 degree triangle. Will the council accept us using exterior silicone to replace what the plugs would normally do? or will we have to get some custom made plugs?

Hi Ivan   The option is to use the timber scribers around the windows or you can use a sealant that can be painted. The sealants are required to be maintained.   The James Hardie Team

Robin asks: I have repaired a broken Summit Stone fence by replacing some of the bricks. The summit stone bricks in the fence are coloured "Antique White", and so I used "Antique White" mortar.
The colour of the existing mortar looks different, more of a cream colour, and may have originally been "Antique Cream".
Is it possible to paint the new mortar pointing to match the existing mortar colour, and if so, how do I go about it, and what product should I use?

Hi Robin   This one is a bit tricky to answer.  May I recommend you get in touch witha stone supplier or a tiling shop.  The Tile Warehouse will be a great place to start.   Regards The James Hardie team.

Julie Williams asks: We are looking to buy a cedar clad
home. It is built in the 80's.
I has that grey/silver look, but does seem porus, especially after rain.
What maintenance should it have had?
The real estate agent asures me dear requires no maintenance. Is this correct?
What is the rough life span?
What maintenance should I do in the future?
Your help will much appreciated. We will get a builing inspection done, but really want to know how one should look after cedar.

Hi Julie   You should probably approach Hermpac Industries http://www.hermpac.co.nz/ about this.   The James Hardie team

Clive asks: I am looking to clad a ICF wall with hardie weatherboard but the windows will be set back into the wall by 70mm. Someone suggested Coloursteel flashing, but I think it will look ugly. Can you suggest an atractive solution to this detail?
Cheers

Hi Clive   Due to weather tightness requirements a metal flashing would be the most appropriate solution here.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Amber asks: hello,

Simple question, is it cheaper to re-clad in Oamaru Stone or Linea Board?

Due to earthquake damage, we have to take down all existing Oamaru Stone and put new Oamaru Stone up, will it cost more to simply put up Linea Board instead?

Hi Amber   Is is much much cheaper to re-clad using Linea Weatherboard than Oamaru Stone.  Please follow the link below to find out more about Linea Weatherboard. http://jameshardie.co.nz/product/Linea-Weatherboard?i=4     Regards The James Hardie Team

Raewyn asks: Hello. I am preparing an 1900's villa for painting. The previous owner has use builders bog to fill the gap of the joining weather boards. This as most us DIYers know over time, falls off/out and needs to be replaced. What I would like to do instead of using a filler, is use a strapping like they use to use, which I think was made out of lead. I cant find any and not surprised. The strapping that I have seen at Mitre 10 and Bunnings has holes punch in it and is not wide enough (and is not designed for this purpose) the other suggestion was soaker's which are toooo hard to bend and not long enough. Do you loverly people know where I could source this type of thing or perhaps an other suggestion, it needs to be pliable so I can bend it for the scallop and nail it while long enough to fit the board and wide enough to weather proof the join. Help :/ Thank you

Hi Raewyn   May I recommend that you get in conact with a roofing manufacturer for this question.  A great company to contact would be Metalcraft Roofing.   The James Hardie Team

Jo asks: I'm thinking of adding more rooms to my single storey house. Which option is cheaper: Option A to build a 6m x 6m garage with 6m x 6m room above it (ie. 2 storey), or Option B to build a 6m x 6m garage with 6m x 6m room behind it on same ground level?

Hi Jo   It depends upon the construction method you are going to use but in general building on ground level is always cheaper.   Regards The James Hardie Team

jim haynes asks: I want to repaint my house, It has Hardiplank weatherboard painted dark brown at the moment,and I want to paint it a lighter colour. Do I have to sandpaper before I repaint to remove loose or flaky paint and undercoat and topcoat. I have never had a Hardiplank house before so it is a new experience for me. Is there a site with instructions on it .. Thanks, Jim..............

Hi Jim   I suggest that you discuss this with the paint manufacturer and then complete the preparation as needed.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Isabel Fish asks: Hi.

We have a basic, approx 6 m x 6 m holiday bush hut up north, overlooking bush, farm and sea. About 1 km, in a direct line from the sea. On the edge of the Brendwyn Hills range.

It has 5 sets of french doors on 3 sides.
2 at the front, facing north and 1 north east and 2 north west. We now want to wrap decking onto the front and most of the 3 sides.

It is on a slope which, I guess drops down a 3 + metres. I haven't measured this.

The slope continues to drop.

I want the deck to be at least 3 metres wide.

I know there will need to be posts a long way down to support the deck.

My question is what might be a ball park figure that we would need to build this?

Including a draughts person.

Of course I need to be as cost effective as possible.

Thanking you for your consideration.

Isabel

Hi Isabel   My suggestion would be to talk to a designer.   Regards The James Hardie Team

peter asks: Please can I have your painting expert answer my Question.
Our earthquake damaged home is about to be repaired. When they repaint the interior, it will be the same colour. The cracks are, I believe, are being raked (? what ever this means) and taped and plastered and then one sealer coat of paint. With the top coat over the entire wall I am under the impression that they plan to only apply one coat. Every paint tin tells me to apply two coats.
Also on our exterior painted block work What preparation should they follow (ie should they be chemically removing mould etc or just water blast. I am under the impression that they only plan to apply one top coat here also To me, this seems not to follow trade practice.
Would one coat apply if they were spraying the exterior or is this usually done with two coats?
Your comments please on this Thankyou

Hi Peter   May I recommend that you talk to a paint manufacturer and stoppers. Dulux would be a great company to contact.   The James Hardie Team

Sue Spicer asks: Hi
We have bought an old 1950's bach and the front has been clad in the 70's with a metal cladding that look like coarse sand has been applied.
It is light brown and a little glittery and we would like to paint it.
Any bright ideas how to make it look more solid and less sandy?
Thanks

Hi Sue   I recommend you could talk to plasters like Mineral Plaster Technologies and Plaster Systems etc.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Jill Corbett asks: Our house is at 11 Lisburn Ave Glendowie. We want to do an extension out the back - on the park side of the house. With regard to height to boundary on the South East side - which reference table would we go to. If it is South it looks like you can go up 2M on the boudary then up at 35 degrees. If it is an Eastern boundary you can go up 2M on the bounday then up at 45 degrees. In our case, it is better for us to call it the Eastern boundary, but in fairness it is probably South Eastern. So - who decides - or can it be a compromise of the 2 scenarios and go up 2M and up at 40Degrees? Thanks Jill

Hi Jill   The height restriction and zoning requirements must be checked with your council. They have the publications available also on their web site which you can refer to.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Nathalie asks: Hi, we are looking at purchasing a house that needs to be underpinned as the bricks are moving away from the frame. My husband is a render that also installs polystyrene wall systems. We were wondering if instead of underpinning we can pull the bricks off and install a polystyrene wall system instead? Thanks

Hi there   A Foundation specialist would be a better person to discuss this with.   James Hardie Team

Katey asks: Hi,

I currently have a hot water cylinder in behind the toilet in my house taking up a lot of empty space. I am renovating my bathroom and would like space to be used a shower. I am contemplating putting the hot water cylinder outside. What are your thoughts on this? Would this be more beneficial rather than the added cost of putting this up in the roof and do you think it would put people off having a hot water cylinder outside?

Thanks!

Hi Katey.   You needs to speak with a plumbing manufacturer.  There are external water cylinders but the choice depends on the aesthetic and pricing discretion.    The James Hardie Team

Julie asks: I am just curious as to what the standard procedure is when using tiles for roofing i.e. is there meant to be building paper then tiles or just my roof cavity then tiles. Someone has just had a look in my roof for cracked tiles (im in Christchurch) and was suprised to see that my roof cavity was open at either end (gaps) and there were just tiles nothing else keeping out the elements? Thanks for your help!

Hi Julie   I would think that this would be based on practice of time when the building was constructed.  I would suggest you talk to a roofing company.      Regards The James Hardie Team  

Owen asks: If a 1950's timber frame brick house in Christchurch with single glazing, insulation in ceiling & under the floors is required to be totaly reclad,
would regulations require insulation in the walls or alteration to the glazing requirements when new cladding is installed?

Hi Owen   I would suggest you approach the council regarding this query.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Miranda Thorpe asks: HI, We are interested in buying a Lockwood house. The interior is immaculate, but the exterior is puzzling: taped joins of the planks,which are peeling off, and discoloured around the joins. Also the area around the windows looks 'worn' and discoloured; also no eves. Is this normal? A problem to fix. We have just sold our leaky house and paranoid about building contructions!
Thanks,
Miranda and Mark

Hi Miranda   I would suggest you get an independent building surveyor or even talk to Lockwood about this situation.   Regards The James Hardie Team   

Steve Warne asks: Hi
I am looking at buying a nice old house built in the 70's and presently clad with a plastic molded product that looks exactly like weatherboards but of course is not. This cladding appears to be 'hung' on a ply backing that I imagine is the true cladding on the framework of the house. The plastic false weatherboard cladding is 18 years old and looks fine, clean and white and is not brittle. Also the house seems to be in very good condition and dry. The plastic is approx 2mm thick and it looks like it is approx two boards high and then locks into another two-board high section etc.
What is this stuff? I can't find any reference to it anywhere but it looks ok and appears to have protected the house. All advice very appreciated as the auction is only about 36 hours away.

Regards
Steve Warne

Hi Steve   I'm unsure how to answer this question sorry.  You could try Dynex who produce a current PVC product and they might know what the old one was?   Regards The James Hardie Team

edrich andrade asks: Hi,

I live in a unit on top of us is another unit they have a deck this is just on top of our entrance. There are gaps in their deck and all the water drips into our front area, windows and door. There is a corrugated roofing iron below the deck to withstand the water flow but its not helping water still seems to seep through can you help please

thanks and regards
Edrich

Hi Edrich  

Kingi kumeroa asks: I am preplanning for my renovations in regards to cost etc so when I apply for a loan I prepared for the bank.

One of my plans is to rewire the house & I want to bring my 1960 built house in with new Tec stuff, like lights, Flat screen, computers & sound system inside plus out side speakers in the eaves etc?
At the end of the day who is the best person to approach or would there be serval people involved. I guess a wiring plan would be required. I have the main meter box to be moved & another fuse box in the corridor. I have made allowances for Solar power to electricity for the house! Please guide me!

Hi Kingi   My suggestion would be to talk to an electrician first.   Regards The James Hardie Team

Simon asks: Hi
I have a freehold Jennian home built 1999, with monolithic cladding (no cavity?). I had it inspected prior to purchase a couple of years ago (report was 'absolutely fine') It has eves on two sides and has a pitched roof. I have not found any leaks. It is due for a repaint. I like it because it has great orientation for sun all day, privacy and in very quiet cul de sac . However Im wondering about recladding as am less keen on monolithic - possible probs later on / buyer sensitivity to cladding/ value decline etc Should I just spend on repainting or put that money towards recladding for a more weatherproof long term solution? Thanks!

That really is a personal decision based on budget, taste and what is happeing in your area.  You reasoning is sound in term of increasing value to your home,  may I recommend you talk to a valuer.

kim deck asks: Have heard from friends that there may be a 'canterlevering' type system that can be used when adding on a small space - say a big walk-in pantry out onto a deck from the kitchen - the roofline is all built in. The idea is to save having to rip up part of the deck and put a whole new foundation in just for a small alteration - maybe not even need a permit? Please let me know what you think

many thanks

Without seeing the property, it is hard to give you sound advice.  We recommend you talk to an architectual designer.  You can find one at www.adnz.org.nz

Kath asks: Hi, we have a property that was badly damaged in the Feb earthquake. It has a palliside type cladding on the outside that would be around 30 years old. As the house has jumped off it foundations, the palliside has stretched, buckled and ripped. The building co our insurer uses says they can put this back on and patch it up. Are they correct? We don't want to be left with a cladding that is damaged and should have been replaced. What do you think? Many thanks for your ideas. Kath

Sorry to hear about your house. A qualified person will need to make that call, however a patch up job may suffice for a short time  but then you will have  claddings with a vast difference in "life span" and  aesthetically  a patch up may not look the best, and if the existing cladding  is already 30 years old the warranty may be near its end.  It will depend on your insurance policy too. Does this cover a full reclad? As long as the structural integrity of the house is passed by a qualified person such as an engineer or council inspector then a reclad in a newer cladding would be the wisest option for the long term. I have passed your email  details to our Territory Sales Manager in Christchurch, and he can make contact with you to discuss your options for recladding. Check out our website where there are recladding/renovation projects  to view and suitable cladding options such a Linea Weatherboard,  to read about:   http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/page/product/pi_productid/4/title/Linea%99+Weatherboard

Bill Frith asks: My house clad in James Hardie weatherboard (not the prepainted type) is coming up to 10 years of age. As what age should I be thinking about repainting the weatherboards?

James Hardie  Std Weatherboards are preprimed but not prepainted, so at some stage you will need to  look at repainting. Thi  will depend on various conditions such as climate, seaspray area, high pollution, ongoing maintenance etc and the actaul paint system used. 10 years is a good length of time without having to repaint or touch up, so a visual inspection and talk with a qualified painter would be a good place to start. Any flaking paint, mould etc will need to be removed (do NOT waterblast fibre cement cladding) then check with your painter or paint manufacturer as to the best paint system to use.  You can use darker colours if you have aluminium mouldings used in conjunction with the weatherboards otherwise the LRV must be over 40%. All  cut edges must also be  primed and painted. Check out our Drawing Board partner's website  http://www.dulux.co.nz/  

John Kay asks: Hi,
Another house that the bricks fell off in the February quake.
On the last EQC inspection I was told that it cost more to redo in cladding than the original brick owing to battens etc to pack out to the foundation.
I really don't want to rebrick if it avoidable can you confirm if cladding is more expensive or not. Cheers

Hi John  I have passsed your email  contact to our Territory  Sales Manager in your area to make contact with you and discuss your options, as there are several factors to be considered in the reclad, and every job is different so this will affect any pricing.  

John Sharp asks: When calculating wall bracing values, do you take the exterior cladding into account as well as the interior cladding? If so, is the resultant value the total bracing units for both claddings added together or is it only a percentage of the total combined value? I ask this question because all the calculators I can find use one or the other but not both.

Bracing is calculated usually by the interior lining or the exterior cladding and cannot be combined. The exception is when it is a combined system which has been tested as such and this will be stated in the manufacturers literature, for example in our James Hardie Bracing Design Manual. http://www.jameshardie.co.nz/index.php/page/brochures/pi_productid/1 Those with B at the end have Braceline included in the system with the Axon Panel for example.

Danny asks: Howdy

Our 100sq summerstone house was badly damaged in the Feb earthquake here in chch. EQC have allowed for all the bricks to be removed & for the house to be reclad with new ones.. My question is would it be cheaper to use Linear board & can you use it with wooden framed windows

Cheers

Sorry to hear that. Yes, Linea weatherboards can be used with exisitng timber framed windows, and are an ideal recladding option. I have passed your enquiry to our Territory Sales manager in ChCh to make contact with you to discuss this.    

linda asks: Hi There,
We have purchased a 1973 bult weatherboard house with hinera stone on front and aluminum windows any suggestions on what colour to paint the exterior thanks

It depends on your preferred taste, surrounding homes, is it a shady or sunny location, and what colour is the roof, and joinery etc. I suggest you look in magazines etc to find colour selectons that you like then talk to your local  Dulux store, as they will  be able to assist in the right choice of paint, and direct you to a colour consultant in your area. It generally does not cost a lot for this advice and can be well worth sitting down for an hour or so with an expert to achieve the total  look you want. www.dulux.co.nz You can also get small test pots of paint to try different combinations.

jo asks: I have a two storey split face block home. the colour and block look does not appeal to me. What are my options without beaking the bank? Painting versus cladding? I would love to clad in linea weatherboards but not sure if possible?

To keep the  current cladding and repaint woud be  a less expensive option than recladding,  so it will depend on your budget. You would need to remove the old cladding, check the framing, and structure etc at the same time, and you will need to adjust the window placement to suit Linea weatherboard which is 16mm thick and mayalso  need to be installed on cavity battens. You will need to have plans submitted to council showing the fixing details and waterproofing details etc for the new cladding, to meet the  building code, so yourfirst step woud be to contact a draughting person to look at the feasibilty of the reclad option, then talk to a builder to obtain costings. We have a Territory Sales Rep  for all areas in NZ who can make contact with you to futher assist if you wish. Please advise where in NZ you are located.  

Trish asks: What is the average price to raise a 100 sqm house and put a block basement underneath?

Thanks for your enquiry. This can vary greatly from job to job, so you really need to talk to a designer first to  check on structure/ engineering/ foundations/ load bearing requirements/ drainage etc.  Once you have a basic scheme plan done,  you can talk to a builder and get a rough idea, however engineering, drawing up full working plans, consent costs,  etc will all need to be taken into consideration. Your Designer will also be able to advise you onn Coucnil regulations regarding height to boundary requirements. You may also need a Resource consent  so these costs need to be confirmed first. You may need a geotechnical report (soil report)  also.   From  the team at The Drawing Board.

Avril Cowie asks: Hi.About to reroof house with a corrugated iron type product..About 16 years ago we used a greenwrap and a zincalume product on a new extension.Are these products still available or should we be looking at something else?

Zincalume is still available and in common use. The Greenwrap Antiblaze Building Wrap was a fire retardant kraft paper, this has been replaced by a product called Covertek, which is a synthetic fire retardant underlay and subsequently vastly superior.

Susan Greenville asks: Please advise on what options there are to put on top o a butinol deck. The problem is that it leaves a chalky dust on your feet when you walk on it and as it gets a fair bit of use we want to a durable solution. Please advise whether outdoor tiles or some sort of paint would work. The deck is on a second storey of the house and is about 3m square.

Thanks

It will depend on whether your deck is freestanding or over the top of existing living space  as tiling over butynol requires specific methods in some  cases. Check with the local Building Authority (Council)  You cannot just apply a coating (ie: paint) over the top of Butynol, you would need to check with the manufacturer as compatability of products  has to be considered. Sections of timber decking that can be lifted off to clean  underneath and check the condition of the Butynol  may be an option.

Trish asks: Is it essetial to paint or stain a deck. If so, which is preferable please?
Trish

It is advisable to put a coating on your decking. Uncoated timber will break down faster under environmental conditions which can result in warping or splitting of the boards and discolouration from  mould and mildew. Of the two options,  paint offers better and longer lasting protection to the timber. However this covers the natural beauty of many  timber species. This is why many people opt for a stained or oiled finish. These do not last as long as paint but if properly maintained, they will keep decking protected from damage caused by the weather and UV exposure.

diannesweeney asks: I have an area I would like to add to the house with a glass roof extension and would like to get quotes or specialists who do this type of thing but don't know where to get these from

You might want to look into conservatory companies in your area, and also contact a few glass manufacturers to see if they would look at the project.

myles marriott asks: Hello, My unit has summerhill stone bricks and some have a hairline fracture due to earthquake or stress. What can I inject into the hairline to strengthen the brick as they dont need to be removed? I was thinking of something similar to superglue just to penetrate. Or perhaps a summerhill sealant crayon type thing?

Thanks

Myles

Your best option is to contact the brick manufacturer, they should be able to give you the best idea on what you could do. You might also need to have someone take a look at the cracking to ensure that there are no more serious issues with the structure of your home.

fancesca sancesa asks: how do people work together to build a home?

Generally an architect, group home builder, builder or project manager run a project. They are responsible for ensuring that all contractors are onsite when required and that work is completed in a timely and correct manor. They are also responsible for arranging council inspections.

Dan Lowe asks: I am laying a concrete patio in the backyard and intend to build a large macrocarpa pergola on it (7m x 6m). Work has not yet commenced on the concrete pad and I have a question about attaching the pergola posts to the ground. Obviously it is best to have the posts about 50mm off the ground, but I have not found any u-shaped brackets for the size of the posts I will be using (200mm x 200mm). What recommendations do you have for securing the posts to the ground. As the concrete has not yet been laid I have options for cementing in post brackets etc...or could it just be dynabolted to a L shaped bracket once the concrete is down? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Have you checked with the local buildiing authority whether  a permit is required for this work?    If so then plans will need to be drawn up showing the method of fixing detail  etc.  The  posts should not be in contact with the concrete, correct.  Either method could be used, (you may need to have brackets speicially made up if  standard sizes do not suit) but check with the local B.A.    

julie asks: Hi were thinking about extending our home whom do you contact first an architech or builder?

You are best to contact a designer first so that you can get some clear plans for your builder to work from, they can not quote or look at any form of scrutural work without some plans to work from that are passed by council.

Bronwyn Shaw asks: Can you please advise if stainless steel wire at 100mm centres is legal as a decking barrier

It all depends how rigid the wire is and the structural framing supporting it.   The key requirement is that it should act as a barrier which can take a impact of a person and stop a person from falling over.   You would be wise to check with your local council for full details.

grant asks: hi there - looking at some major reno's on our 1930's house.

have played around with Google sketchup and come up with a few ideas.

really just wondering what the 1st step is..?
getting on board with an architect? draughtsman?

thanks for your help.

Yes, getting an Architect or Architectural Designer to work up a concept and some plans is your best beat. Once you have these you can discuss pricing with builders and get consents from council. Plans really are the foundation to the whole job.

Tania Atkinson asks: Hi. I want to bring our front door back to life. The house is 3 years old and has a south facing cedar front door which has faded and looks dry. Sikkens clear sealer was evidently used originally but I can't find a sikkens product that doesn't seem like a polyurethane. I am wanting more of an oiled finish. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Thank you.

In order to oil the front door any residual coating will need to be sanded back completely. We would recommend you also wash the door down with Cabot's Deck Clean before coating. This will remove any mould spores and prepare the timber to accept the new product. If the timber has weathered badly, you should sand back to fresh timber. Always wash before you sand so that you don't push dirt or contaminants into the timber. We would suggest you use either Cabots Natural Decking Oil which is oil-based, or Cabots Garden Furniture Oil which is water-based. The water-based option generally lasts longer and is easier to use. We recommend you inspect the finish annually for signs of degradation. Simply sprinkle some water off your finger tips onto the timber to check for water repellency. If the water soaks into the timber rather than beading on top, the water repellency has worn off and it is time to recoat.

Jennifer asks: What dark colours can be used on timber weather boards

Really no dark colour should be used on timber, darker shades attract more heat, increasing the risk of stressing substrates that can cause flaking, bubbling and other performance issues.  You should use paint colours with a light reflectance value of 40%-100% to prevent potential problems down the track. If you go down the track of the darker colours on the spectrum given check with the paint manufacturer that the paint does meet the requirements for timber weatherboards.

S. Bryant asks: What is the best way to blond a macracarpa T.N.G. ceiling. we have purchased sea sALT.

The best way to blond, or lighten the colour of timber is to use a white stain or tinted polyurethane. We are not aware of a lightening process using sea salt. We would recommend you visit your local Dulux stockist and ask for Cabot's Crystal Clear. The store will need to add 16 drops of our White (W) tinter for each litre of Crystal Clear. This is available in a Gloss or a Satin finish.

Mark asks: I have a house built 1990 which is clad in hardieplank wood grain finish, im thinking of recladding with Linier weatherboard, will i have to change the windows too, as the weatherboard will stand further away from the stud? or is there verticals available to finish the side edge of windows. mmm wondering if that actually makes sense ;)

regards

'Yes you can use Linea Weatherboard and you don;t have to remove the windows. There is a flashing system available in the market which is called Flashman and this is suitable to achieve what you are planning.

kathy o'neill asks: our home is one hundred years old. double brick. We are unable to get under the house to insulate. This makes us unable to take advantage of insulation loans. where is the best place to start with improving the insulation in our home. There is limited ceiling insulation ( batts) they have been up for years?

The best place to start is by going to http://www.pinkfit.co.nz/ or calling them on 0800 pinkfit, they are nation wide installers of Pink Batts and will be able to come up with thing for you.

ELIZABETH O'BRIEN asks: How much does a house extention cost on average

Unfortunately there is not an average that can be relied upon when it comes to budgeting for a house extension. You can get an average for a new house because there are not so many variables, but a renovation is a different kettle of fish. The cost relies heavliy on what you are working with already, what you are going to do with it and whether it is possible without major work to the original structure. The best advise is to get a few different renovation experts to look at your specific project and give you a figure.

Paul & Julie davis asks: hi guys - We have a small ,badly designed four bedroom, 80's style home with an internal garage. We want to covert the garage into a master bedroom with ensuite and small private lounge.
I would like to also add a double carport that would fit in with the style of the house - What suggestions can you offer to assist in the project and what price range do you think we'll be look at?

The best advise we can give is to get as much information from people in your area in the industry before you decide exactly what you are doing. Look around and find out what you like, what you don't like, ask around to find out who the best designers and renovation companies are in your area and see what information you can get from them without paying the earth. Look at everything before you start the work, because if you change your mind halfway through on even the smallest of things it will cost you in money and in time. Become the expert in what you want so that later you don't say "Oh I wish we could have done that". Unfortunately it is very difficult to offer advise on price for this sort of work as it is very project specific. The best option would be to have someone in terms of a designer or architect take a look at what you are proposing first, get a plan that you can take to council and have council approve it. Once you have that you can then look into what it will really cost you with a builder or renovation company.  

ashley de silva asks: we have a single internal access garage if i xtend this to the boundary do i need resource consent.
Or just a building consent.

There are serveral things to take into account, firstly height to boundary rules, if you break them, then yes you will need a resource consent. The second one is what site coverage does your house already have? You are only able to cover your site up to a certain percentage and then you are not able to extend any further on the same level. The best thing to do is call your local council and discuss your project with a building inspector, they will be able to tell you what you can and can't do.

Darren asks: Hi there, I'm in the process of getting a new garage built, out last one had an unfortunate mishap. I would like to build it as a 4.8m x 7.8m and 2.4m studs @ 600mm spacing. What bracing do I have to put on the long wall? I have the standards manual but it only seems to cover up to 7.5m with dragon ties? I don't intend to live in the garage, just for a workshop and car.

It sounds like you are doing a total rebuild. You will need to have plans drawn and permitted prior to commencing any building work. These permitted drawings will show all your bracing requirements

Darylle lawler asks: we have a late 1950's rouhgcast home. We would like to renovate the back and to gain some extra living space. How easy is it to take out a part of an outside wall and to add on to this sort of house. the outside and all windows are in very good repair.

We would recommend you seek the advice of a Registered Draughtsman. Construction wise should be fairly straight forward, however without seeing your proposal it is not possible to tell if you may have height to boundary site coverage or drainage issues that may compromise your plans.

Yvonne Taylor asks: We have a 1940s square stucco bungalow house with a separate garage clad in hardiplanks. We want to modernise our property and are starting by replacing the single roller garage door with a Garador Aspen Flat Panel - probably black to match our charcoal coloured fencing (sub-tropical garden). Any suggestions for updating the hardiplank cladding for a more modern look? We want it to be aestetically pleasing but still compliment the stucco house. I was think maybe Titan Panels?

There are several options available to you. Titan Facade Panel is a good option, equally Axon Panel would modernise the look too. Both of these options would give you the same hard wearing low maintenance cladding you have had in the past.

Juliana Mason asks: we are looking at replacing all aluminium windows in our 2005 house with the modern style double glazed tilt and turn windows from Europe.
The cladding is linea.

I know how the new ones go in but how do I get the old windows out with damaging too much inside and outside

Use a reciprocating saw with care.  An experience builder would make this look easy. If there are just architraves around the windows tehre is even less damage but if  there are rebated jambs all the gib would need to be cut etc. Another aspect for consideration is the existing head flashing, can you leave it in place or would it need to be removed.  This could mean some rows of Linea Weatherboard may need to be removed.

Steven asks: I am designing a deck and I will use 250 x 50 joists based on that I have 3 questions 1. By how much can I canterlever the deck ie whats the overhang distance? 2.If I use 250 x 50's for the bearers two together what spacing for posts can I use. I know 1.2m is for 150 x 50. Finally what is hole depth for a 1.5m high deck, 500 x 500? thx

These queries are best left to the building inspectors at your local coucil. They should be able to help you with these matters over the phone.

Kyle asks: Hi, i have a old character home in ChCh apx 120m3 and wan to know a rough cost to put new weather board on as there is borer in miost. Also looking at putting on and extension as a master bedroom with ensuit etc what is the avaerage building cost for extension...looking at 30m3 ish

If you are looking at cladding the home in Linea Weatherboard an approxmiate cost is $105-130 per square metre of cladding - unpainted. it all depends on your house and who installs it.   I would recommend contacting a James Hardie Installer in your area for a better idea.   In regards to the extension, this can not be answered without further information and a visit to site. On of our installers mentioned above will be able to give you an idea of what your extension might cost you.

Rick asks: Hi, would you have any tips on how to remove the protective plastic coating on colour steel flashing. It's about 12 years old so well bonded on and somewhat affected by uv.
Thanks
Rick

We are not aware of any product that you could use that will not also damage the paint surface as well. The problem is that the plastic will only come off in very small flakes and not easily once it has been left on and effectively baked onto the flashing. Unfortunately the only options are to either leave it or fully replace it as picking the plastic off will take a month of Sundays.

mike asks: hi
just wanting a rough estimate for extending a bedroom outwards by 2-3m on 2 outside walls ?probably put an ensuite in also.
cheers

Unfortunately without taking a look at your project a figure can not be reached. There are so many factors that make up a cost when it comes to home extensions.   You best beat is to have a contractor in your area take a look at what you are proposing. They will then be able to answer your query.

Gary asks: I want to add a walkway down the side of a building using posts, then linking the posts to the fascia and nailing on clear poly corrugated sheets. How would I attach the timber to the fascia and to the top of the posts?

When attaching any structure to the exterior of your home, it is best to contact your local council to determine what is required of you before starting. I would suggest that they will also be able to point you in the right direction for approved fixings to fascia.

Rob Nichols asks: Hi,
Am looking at doing some repair work to my corrigated iron roof, there are some surface rust areas and some of the nails are coming loose, there are also a few places where the rust has actually broken through. I got a quote to re-roof but this is out of my current budget. Am after any information on the best way to tackle this problem. Thanks, Rob

Once the sheet has perforated due to rust the only real option is to replace it. If the rust has occurred close to the gutter line then it is possible to install a slip sheet, this will keep the material cost down but there is an extra labour costs associated with cutting the existing sheet back. This is definitely a temporary measure but will achieve the necessary repair to give the weather tightness required while the money side of things is sorted.   Obviously concentrate on the areas that are the worse affected and minor perforations may be able to be patched with small pieces and silicone. Again a temporary measure but it will buy you some time.   Ultimately you will not get away from reroofing as it sounds as though the deterioration is relatively advanced, hopefully these two suggestions above will aid in the interim until the necessary reroof can be done.

simon kennedy asks: What do all of you think about UPVC windows and doors ?

There is no expert here that has had any experiance with uPVC. As this product is new to New Zealand you may not be able to find any impartial knowledge about it.   The best option is to contact the building department of your local council, as they may have some information regarding the application of uPVC in windows and doors. 

Hamish Mark asks: Hi there. We are planning to reclad our home with James Hardie 305mm fibre cement Smooth Weatherboard. In addition we plan to insulate the walls. I am told that combinations of Fibre cement weatherboards and fibre glass insulation like pink bats will cause the Lintels and framing to rot. What insulation is best suited with fibre cement cladding. Many thanks Hamish and Inga

The assumption of rot with the above combination is incorrect.   James Hardie weatherboards have been in the market for more than 25 years and they are frequently used with insulation materials like pink batts or other similar materials, there have been no issues using these products in combination with each other. These weatherboards are a good solution as far as their installation or compliance with NZBC is concerned.   You are absolutely on the right track if you are going to reclad your house with James Hardie 305mm weatherboards.  You can use any insulation which complies with minimum R-value requirements for your zone. Please follow James Hardie Weatherboard Technical Specification regarding the installation of James Hardie weatherboards.

grant asks: Hi,we have a weatherboard home that has ben overclad in that 70s style brick veneer panels.can we get a plasterer to render directly to the fake brick exterior to create a more modern smooth plaster appearance,??

It is not that straight forward to plaster over an existing brick veneer type of cladding.   It will be best to remove this cladding and put a new cladding on. You may create more problems in the walls by plastering over it.  I suggest you talk to an experienced plasterer for further advice.

atul asks: we are creating a new sunspace and there is going to be a link space from the lounge to the sunspace. The sunspace will have a high ceiling . For this linkspace we are considering to have a double glazed roof. The rear end of the glazed roof will start from under the existing roof eve hence we would like to keep the pitch to the minimum. How low can we go safely? This link space measures 3 x 2.2 metres

Unfortunately I am ensure of what you are asking, but I assume you are asking what the minimum pitch is for the roof light. 5º is the minimum to produce adequate water run off however design, type of material used for roof light and snow load can effect this.

Theresa Parker asks: Hi there

We are looking at purchasing a 1970's cedar weatherboard home but some of the weatherboards look cracked and split. It is a 315m2 house up and down and we are thinking if it doesn't have issues that it may do in the very near future so we will need to look at what this might cost in considering this project. We like linea weatherboard and wonder what the potential cost of linea would be on a house this size?

The price of a Linea re-clad depends on several things, where you are located in New Zealand, who you will use to install the product and who you will use to paint the product.   An approxmiate cost is $105-130 per square metre of cladding - unpainted.   I would recommend contacting a James Hardie Installer in your area for a better idea.

diana merigold asks: what colour do pre-finished soffits come in? is there a choice of colours?
I have cedar house and am going to replace faschias and paint them dark grey like the roof. so i want avsoffit colour that will look nice against the dark grey and the cedar.
otherwise if i want to paint soffits the same colour as the faschia, what type of soffit would you recommend i use?
thanks

The pre-finished soffit products come in white only. If you would like a coloured soffit, you have three options of fibre cement soffit sheet that will require painting: HardieSoffit - Has an unsanded finished surface, which you are then able to apply paint to, to achieve a semi gloss finish. This soffit is specifically designed for narrow eaves and comes in three widths 450mm, 600mm & 750mm. HardieFlex™ - Compliments the HardieSoffit Eaves range and comes both in 4.5mm and 6mm thick fiber cement sheet and in larger sizes to accommodate wider soffits on buildings. HardieGroove™ - Has the charm of traditional tongue and groove timber panels, but has all the qualities of a modern James Hardie fibre cement product. The boards are 7.5mm thick and come in widths of 1200mm.    

diana merigold asks: I need to replace the roof so am looking at getting the fascia and soffits replaced at the same time as they are old and warped with peeling paint. I want to do them in something that can be painted dark grey (same colour as the new roof will be). What can you suggest that will look nice next to the existing cladding? Ideally something that will just slot in where the existing fascia / soffits are so it doesn't need lots of time and expense to do. Also the existing soffits are not the same depth round the whole building, some sides stick out more than others - will this make it difficult?

You can use James Hardie CLD Fascia which can be painted dark colours unlike timber alternatives.    For soffits, you'll save yourself some time and money but going with a pre-finished soffit like Eclipsa Eaves Lining or Silkline Soffit Lining. Both of these soffit linings are available in different widths to suit all styles.

Ajit asks: I have a home built in the early 80s. The exterior is fibre cement weatherboard. The exterior has not had any maintenance in at least ten years.

How do I go about cleaning this exterior of the house.

Do you know where I can go to get this service?

The extent and nature of maintenance will depend on the geographical location and exposure of the building.  As a guide, it is recommended that basic normal maintenance tasks shall include but not be limited to: - washing down the exterior (do not water blast) - prune back vegetation close to or touching the building - clean out gutters as required - re-applying protective coatings as per the paint manufacturers recommendations.    

Simon asks: Hi, we are currently renovating our 1920's bungalow. Our builder has said it would be cheaper to use timber weatherboards rather than James Hardie Linea Weatherboards. Weatherboards are painted on avarage every 10years, is this the case for Linea Weatherboards? We plan to live in the house for a long time, this is not a home we intent to sell anytime soon. Can you tell use the pro's and con's of each product?

Actually timber weatherboard would require painting approximately every seven years.  With Linea Weatherboard you can paint with Wattyl paints and get a 15 year warranty on the paint and a 25 year warranty on the product.  It's very low maintenance.  When it comes to cost, if your builder has the correct tooling, installation costs should be comparable to timber weatherboards. James Hardie have Recognised Installers that are trained in the installation of fibre cement building products.  To find one in your area visit http://www.jameshardie.co.nz.  

troy leggett asks: Hi, We are painting the exterior of our 1970's hardieplank home. Just wondering what prep work is required before painting the hardieplank weatherboards. We will water blast and clean them first but do we need to sand back, rough up the surface or will painting directly over the existing paint be fine.??Thanks for your help.

Do not waterblast James Hardie building products.  Soft wash instead.  Sanding back for keying is a query for the paint manufacturer - ask at the counter what they recommend when purchasing.  

Rex asks: I have a hardieflex / fibrolite deck, it is not thick enough so I would like to glue 4mm of same on top to make deck thicker and stronger.
Can you suggest and supply an econommical adhesive for this.
I need to cover 7-- 2mtr x1200mm sheets,

Thanks Rex.

The only products for decks that James Hardie recommends is 18mm HardiePanel Compressed Sheet. 

paul asks: Hi
I was thinking about reroofing house (iron) any idea on average prices/sqm to install?
many thanks
Paul

It's difficult to assess as there are a lot of factors that go into building a price but as a rough indication assuming a roof pitch of 20 degrees or less, flat site, single storey in Auckland (Metro area) would start at about $50/m2 and move from there. The best thing to do is get a quote which are obligation and cost free.  Try http://www.metalcraftroofing.co.nz/

GuildaThibodeau asks: I have a project that requires a 2 hour fire wall, What is the best and most economical way to achive this?

Thank you.

James Hardie Linea Weatherboard can achieve a 90 minute fire resistance rating.  More information can be found at www.jameshardie.co.nz.

Suzy asks: I like the look of Linea Weatherboard from your TV ads. Can you please tell me what widths it comes in.

James Hardie Linea Weatherboard is available in 135, 150 and 180mm widths. Boards are 4200mm long and have tongue and groove ends to allow for off stud jointing which minimises waste.

Alan Goodall asks: Hi there from Katikati,
Under your tips and tricks section subheading "Blistering Flaking and Peeling", you say that this is usually caused by moisture trapped beneath the paint and in the case of walls could be caused by condensation.

I have recently repainted my weather board home and had no problems until I came to a small area on the South side. Here I sanded back any flaking areas and from memory there were no blisters at the time. I used the Dulux u/c which you recommended and then Weathershield. Blisters have developed over some months and are full of brown water. The area is outside the laundry, bathroom and toilet and the boards are all sound. There is no visible gap at the overlaps. Vents are fitted on the second board from the bottom and are spaced at 900 mm. There are 4 in total covering this area. This is the first time in the 5 years we have owned the house that this has happened.

Your inference is that condensation is coming from within. How is this possible? I have racked my brain and feel that lack of adhesion may be the cause. Does all the previous paintwork have to be totally removed?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Alan

The main causes of blistering are usually; • Seepage of moisture through un-sealed joints or leaks in roof or walls. • Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls. • Inadequate surface preparation. • Applying an oil based paint over a wet surface. • Applying paint on a very hot day, and surface of paint drying quickly trapping moisture. We recommend that the flaking areas are sanded right back. We would remove all previous paint work back to bare timber and give a good sand with 80g sand paper. This will show any problems that need to be fixed. You say there are no visible gap at the overlaps, so have a good look for moisture coming from the inside. Have a check if there are any pipes around the area that may have a very small leak, dont forget to look upwards as well, remember water runs down. It doesn't take much moisture behind the coating to make a blister. It is best to thin your first coat of Weathershield X10 onto bare timber 10%, this will create better adhesion into the timber.

caroline asks: Hi,
We have cedar cladded house, that is leaking through the cedar cladding. The cedar was never stained, and weathered with the sun, and now since we moved in, we have stained the weatherboards without knowing that the leaks were serious. Now with the weatherboard stained (with oil), we are stil having leaks, and are considering cladding over the weatherboard. We cannot paint the weatherboards because they have been stained now with oil, and are considering re-cladding. IT is only half the house though, so its about 90 meters squared. Can you provide any advice? Obviously we would like to prevent re-cladding if there is a way to seal these weatherboards.

Thank you

The cedar weatherboard can be replaced with a weatherboard of the similar thickness. Take a look at Linea Weatherboard which is a stable product and can be painted any colour (even dark colours) and is warranted for 25 years.

Janine Ready asks: HI there!

We have a very basic 89sq metre home that is clad in Oamaru stone. "Oh how lovely you exclaim" - yes it would be had it been professionally laid. Unfortunately if has grey grout that is everywhere and the last owners of the house cleaned if off with a wire brush! We are wishing to extend this house - as it is in a lovely rural setting on 2.5 acres. But I can't get past what to do with the cladding. The building is only 15 years old - and has aluminum windows that are quite recessed which could cause a problem with the choice in reclad. We would like to keep some of them. Any advice would be gratefully received.

Re cladding is quite a technical issue and it requires a close look at the existing cladding. It would be advisable to get a builder or a designer to look at the place and get his feedback. We can assist in finding a building or designer in you area if you wish.

Bryan asks: I have a house built in the 1980's that is clad with Woodgrain Hardiplank that is about 9mm thick.

There are a number of boards that have developed cracks across the width of the boards from hairline cracks to larger ones a few mm wide. I have used a flexible weatherboard sealant (for weatherboards) to close up the cracks where possible, and painted over the sealant.

What is my best course of action to ensure weathertightness and is it possible to prevent further cracks developing?

Where can I get replacement weatherboards of this style to replace the cracked ones? The current Hardiplanks sold at the shops are thinner and do not have the same pronounced woodgrain.

The 9mm profile of the weatherboard is no longer manufactured. The cracking is mainly due to structural movement. The best option would be to reclad using the new range of 7.5mm cladding.

I Have a wooden weatherboards home clad in 220mm x19mm weatherboard. One side of the house has been a patch up after an earlier renovation and several boards are full of borer and or rotten. Would I be better off replacing in a no timber finish? Do you have an equivalent board to this size. I don't really want to make a complete change as this is a heritage street and house needs to remain pretty much standard. By the way the weatherboards aren't bevelled - they are just planking. have already replaced some on other walls with tanalised pine boards.

You would definately be better off using a fibre cement weathertboard, you will not have the same problems you are currently having. We don’t have the weatherboard in the size you have suggested, my suggestion to you would be to consider recladding the entire wall in linea Weatherboard or James Hardie Smooth Weatherboard.

We have 2 bedroom house on a 454m2 section, our family is growing and we wish to extend by adding another two bedrooms. In general how much should we budget for basic construction costs / per square meter? What is a good starting point?

The basic construction cost for single level is @ $ 1400 / sq.meter. You should plan to start construction in spring time when there is less rain.

We are wanting to extend a 3 bedroom 1950s brick and tile house, (It has concrete walls inside) - With an extra 10m2 - 15m2 onto the house to create an extra open plan living space. Can you tell me whether the best solution for the extention is to use timber and then paint the house and the new extention the same colour, OR will we have to use brick on the extention to make the house look uniform when the project is complete?
Many thanks,
Aroha

It is better idea to mix the claddings and use something like Linea Weatherboard which will provide a trendy updated look. You can paint the brick different color and Linea a different color or can use the same color throughout.

Our house was built in 1994; brick base and Harditex clad upper level and concrete tile roof with eaves approx 500mm;

How can we assess our risk of leaky home probs? There are no current obvious signs.

You really need to get this checked up by an building surveyor who has an understanding of the claddings and building construction.

When we remodelled our 1940's bungalow we decided to replace the weatherboards with Rockote but now (over a 15 year period) the cracks are beginning to show. The exterior still appears to be weatherproof but we are considering attending to this problem. There has obviously been some ground movement so the possibility of future cracking may occur so we wonder if it might be more prudent to remove the existing cladding and reclad with Linea Weatherboard, would the cost of this be unrealistic? Thanks for your advice.

You can reclad using Linea Weatherboard and this will give you a fresh modern look. You will need to have the drawings drawn up and talk to your local council. Generally in the Auckland area Linea Weatherboard can be installed for around $110 per sq meter unpainted.

Andrew Mackintosh asks: I am being asked the question over and over again from around the Country. Why are we gapping weatherboards & Linea Weatherboard (underside edge). Where does it recomend or say to gap the underside edger of Linea Weatherboard?

We don’t recommend to gap under the laps of Linea Weatherboard. In fact we have never recommended this practice for Linea Weatherboard since the launch of this product in NZ. Gaps under the lap upto 2mm are acceptable. Where you have bigger gap due to framing tolerances, the board can be face nailed using a jolt head nail to close the gap.

Caroline asks: Hi, we have a 1920's bungalow and are thinking about lifting it and putting a double garage and extra rooms underneath. Can you give any idea on a ballpark figure for this?

That's extremely difficult to do without seeing the job because there are just so many variables. The best thing to do is get a quote from three builders. We can arrange this for you - just click on Get a Quote.

Sarah Pipi asks: I really like the look of Linea Weatherboard but I currently have a timber weatherboard home. Can I use Linea Weatherboard for my extension?

Yes, of course. Linea Weatherboard is available in three widths to suit your renovation project - 135, 150 and 180mm. For more information visit www.jamesdhardie.co.nz

Todd asks: My neighbour has used Linea Weatherboard on their new home and have painted it black - it looks fantastic. I want to use it on my reclad but is painting it black okay?

Yes. You can paint Linea Weatherboard any colour of the spectrum - including black! See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.

C.F.Reed asks: I am planning an extension on to our lounge, with 12mm CD ply as cladding and bracing. I have NZS3604:1990, which tells me how to calculate the number of bracing units I require for walls, floor, and roof, but I am unable to find any method to determine how to achieve the required values, except for vertical walls, in Appendix K. How do I do it? Assume that I have a good grasp of practical mathematics.

BRANZ offer bracing calculation sheets which you can get by clicking here. Also make sure you are using the current version of NZS 3604 which is dated 1999.

Kylie Ward asks: Hi I live in Totara Heights in Manukau and am painting - I am looking for a color consultant to help choose paint colors and get a good opinion - can you recommend a good person thanks kylie

Hi Kylie, You can book a Dulux colour consultant here

emma williams asks: Hi, if a house has a brick exterior, can Linea Weatherboards be fixed to them to totally update the look, without ripping the building down!? Can you please supply and indication of cost PLM too.

The brick would need to be removed before Linea Weatherboard could be applied. Your local council would need to be consulted regarding the change of cladding and a simple risk score analysis undertaken. This will let you know if Linea Weatherboard can be direct fixed or needs to be applied over a cavity. The flashing details would need to be looked at by a designer to ensure weathertightness. For a quote for your re-clad contact Smith and Sons

Carol asks: I have recently purchased an old 1950s home with fibrolite exterior. Some of the panels are damaged and I would like to replace with different exterior. What are my options?

James Hardie offer a number of different style exterior claddings from weatherboard eg.Linea Weatherboard to flat sheets like Titan Facade Panel or HardieFlex Sheet. For more information visit www.jameshardie.co.nz

Carol asks: Are there any restrictions or rules regarding the removal of old building materials that may contain asbestos, other than wrapping the material in building plastic before disposing, and dampening the material before removal. I am also assuming that masks, and gloves are worn. Do I need to get a special contractor to do this work or can any builder do this as part of my renovation project?

It is always best to consult the Occupational Health and Safety Website for this information and check with local council where product can be taken too.

Gary Bint asks: Hi, We are looking into buying a old villa type house,the exterior cladding is old hardiplank and stucco, how can we modernise the look, can we install a weatherboard over the top?and what costs would we be looking at. Thanks

The cladding should be removed as it is difficult to install product over existing cladding due to flashing modifications and compliance. Find out the age of the cladding so that any handling concerns can be addressed. When the cladding is removed it is a good time to install insulation to help keep your home warm and dry.

Mary Williams asks: We own a summerhill stone house and have never really liked the look of the exterior. We are planning on doing some renovations soon and are wondering how we could change the look of the exterior of the house to make it look more modern

Recladding is a great way to to update the look of your home, however this could become very costly. If you are looking for something more cost effective then perhaps talk to a texture plasterer about rendering over the stone to modernise it.

prakash lal asks: I am planing an extension to our property in Takanini. Could you please recommend a competent builder Thanks

Smith and Sons are a nationwide franchise of builders. www.smithandsons.co.nz or freecall on 0800 764842.

Dan curios asks: Hi, what is the best solid plaster systems to use for a house exterior ? what is the average hourly rate for a builder in hamilton ? what is the average hourly rate for a draughtsmen in hamilton ? ( so i dont get ripped off on up coming work).

The only solid plaster system is that which complies with NZS 4251. Textured coatings must comply with EM4 of New Zealand Building Code. On average the cost per square meter is $80 - $100. If you want a smooth finish, then specialised angles etc.. will be required which will push this cost up. For accurate pricing, we recommend getting three quotes.

Phil asks: I wish to build on an extension to an existing bedroom. When calculating the glazing requirements for the extension does the existing bedroom dimensions for each wall (obivously without windows) allow me to increase the amount of glazing in each of the walls of the new extension? I wish to maximise the glazing in the extension to gain light, view and solar gain. Which guidance documents will explain this?

The document you are refering to is the H1 Compliance Document for New Zealand Building Code Energy Efficiency – Third Edition. This document can be viewed on the department of building and housing website www.dbh.govt.nz. Please view this document as there are a number of factors that contribute towards the thermal envelope of a building.

fillicia asks: Hi there We're currently live in a 2 bedroom house (crosslease) build in 1940. We're thinking about adding extra room on top. We went to city council for the house's info but they cant tell us anything re. the house because its build in 1940. My questions are what should we do next? if its an architect that we need do you have any suggestion? should we contact the architect first and do the budgeting later on or do budget first? many thanks for you help fillicia

The council most probably do not have any drawings or details of your property. If you're looking to extend you should get in touch with a designer or architect who will draw the plans for the whole house, with the new addition in it as well. The drawings of the existing house are required for the council records. The next step is to do your budget on the basis of how big the extension is.

Murray Stevenson asks: We are doing an extension and weighing up timber weatherboard v linea. We have heard some bad reports about linea weatherboard. Do we need to be wary of this new product?

Linea Weatherboard has been on the market for approximately 9 years. It has been tested by BRANZ (Building Research Association NZ) and complies with their requirements. It certainly offers benefits that competitor products don't, like a 90 minute fire resistance rating, 25 year warranty and they can be painted dark colours (even black) without the risk of warping and twisting. James Hardie also have a number of recognised installers nationwide. They are skilled in the application of fibre cement building products and have the correct tooling for best practice and speedy installation. They can be found at www.jameshardie.co.nz.

Charlene asks: I am looking to renovate the exterior of my home. Presently my home is clad in an old Hardies product designed to look like fake bricks, it's a fawny colour the bottom with larger panels on top. I am wondering if you still stock this product, or if you know where I might be able to get hold of some. Cheers :^

This product is no longer on the market. James Hardie do offer a number of other cladding options. Visit www.jameshardie.co.nz

Brian asks: Hi,we building a new deck and would like to put a waterproof cover on it,something other than butynol ? can you help?

There are many other types of waterproofing membranes available in the market. You can refer to Branz web site for more information. www.branz.org.nz

Michelle Collings asks: Hi we are putting up coving in a 15 year old house. Would appreciate any tips to make the process easier. Thanks

Installing coving is essentially a skilled job and we would recommend getting in the professionals. However some things to look out for are how to cut the cove to suit the internal or external corners. The cove must be cut face down at 45 degree cut. You should probably cut and join one or two corners using samll pieces on the floor beforehand to ensure that the angle and the cut is suitable for the corners. The main thing is there shouldn't be any gaps beteeen the joins. The coves can be screw fixed, nail fixed or glued.

Janne asks: Hi, I have a weatherboard home & I am wanting to lift my house up. I am wondering what the best option would be please? Would brick blocks or timber be the best base for this? Also can you give me an indication as to who would be the best people to contact to do this work please?

The quickest option to lift a house is to use the timber base. You can use weatherboards on the base to match the main cladding. You should contact the house moving companies for this and you can find their details in the yellow pages or talk to your builder.

PETER asks: Hi, We are in the process of deciding on claddings for a new build house. Can you suggest a suitable 2nd lightweight spray textured cladding that would work well with corrugated steel laid horizontally? Thanks

The only suitable options for lightweight cladding is Monotek Sheet from James Hardie or a stucco plaster system using HardieBacker Substrate. See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.

Corinne asks: I want to enclose my deck in order to add more room to my one bedroom unit. I would like to use something that will give me privacy from the neighbours but still lets in some light and warmth. What materials would you recommend I use.

You could use glass to keep the light coming through and wind out. Frosting over the glass will give you privacy. You'll need to check with your local council on any regulations you might need to meet.

Harry asks: Is it legal to build without a permit. I would like to add another two rooms to my home. I have previously tried to build a garage on my large basically empty block, but after spending $8,000 and another $4000 the council required me to spend also for illogical nonsense I pulled the plug on the project.

You must not undertake any construction activity without a building permit. There are huge penalties which can be imposed on you to build without a permit. All major building works do require a building consent as set out in the Building Act 2004. A building consent ensures what is being built is meets health and safety requirements and building code requirements. A code of compliance certificate can not be issued without it. You can view the act online at View the Act online (www.legislation.govt.nz) or Department of Building and Housing (www.dbh.govt.nz)

Dean Osborne asks: I have just brought a house built in 1975, with a deck and carport added in 1978 then a conservatory built over part of the deck in 1986 Parts of the conservatory floor are rotten which I do not see as too much of a problem to fix. The deck on the other hand may require a little bit of planing out The deck area is approximately 5250x3900 lined with fibulite with a so called waterproof rubber membrane on top The fibulite is cracked and broken in places and so needs replacing The deck is at the same level as the floor of the house and so there are signs of seepage into the floor of the house (when you are under the house looking up) Under the deck is the carport with concrete floor and lined walls, the ceiling & parts of the wall lining have long since rotted away because of the water leaking down from the deck All the water collecting in the carport pools up against the back wall & concrete floor At this stage I am thinking I can fix these problems by removing the fibulite, keep the existing treated wood joists, put down a product such as permadeck- the gaps in the deck will allow the water to drain down passed the joists, which should fix the problem of water seepage into the floor of house. On the underside of the deck (carport ceiling area) possibly putting up corrugated iron with some fall on it and spouting system to safely divert the water away from the carport floor Do you think this will work and do you have any other ideas? Cheers Dean

We would recommend replacing your existing fibrolite material with James Hardie HardiPanel Compressed sheet 18mm thick. Get this fully covered with a waterproofing membrane. The deck should be sloping to the exterior and the entire run off the deck can be collected in a guttering and disposed off to the ground. This will save you putting a corrugated roof under the deck. Make sure the joists are in good condition.

Brenda asks: Hello. I have a 1940's art deco house with a leaky rook. As I have already replaced the roof once- around 8 years ago, and that hasn't fixed the problems, I now blame the design of the flat roof with internal gutters. I did get Grey Skills in to see whether the leaks could be fixed, but the men who came to look at the problem said it wasn't possible to know if the problems could be fixed and how much it would cost. I just want a dry roof over my head. I am not too concerned at retaining the art deco character of the existing roof. If I have to put a traditional roof with peaks and eaves on in order to get rid of my problems with the roof leaking, I will. Could you tell me how I can get a dry house for the least disruption and cost. If I am putting on a new roof, I would probably want to have some attic like storage in the roof and insulation. Thank you, Brenda

In years gone by the minimum pitch for tray section roofing was 1 degree. That has in recent times been increased to 3 degrees. It sounds as though there is an inherent problem with the design. If it were a material issue then the reroofing project would have solved the problem. Without seeing the property we can’t tell you exactly but our initial reaction to your question is that you should do two things. 1. Increase the current pitch of your roof – the current low pitch could be resulting in ponding or pooling 2. If possible get rid of the internal gutter design and have the roof drain the water outside the line of the building. As an extra item to check, I assume your roof has a parapet wall. I would ensure that if any chase cuts have been made to the inside of the parapet they have been done and sealed correctly. I would also check that the parapet flashings have a fall on them so water can’t pond or pool on them. If the parapet is solely reliant on the caps for waterproofing at the top then it may be that a secondary barrier be installed under the existing caps. I would also check that when the roof was replaced they installed roofing paper under the roof. Any penetrations through the roof should be properly sealed around, this includes TV aerials and Sky dishes. Also ensure they used a breathable building paper and not a foil. As you can see there are many things that could be causing the leak problems you are experiencing. We recommend getting in touch with Metalcraft Roofing and get them to come and look at the roof and provide a professional opinion.

Grant Leach asks: Can Linea Board be placed over exisiting brick work?

If it is face brick then not, it can't. If it's concrete blocks filled with concrete then you can fix a batten over and then fix the Linea Weatherboard into it.

Georgina Mac Rae asks: I am closing up an external opening and would like to know what board I can use externally to attach to new studs. It will need to be weather proof for only about a year as we are planning a complete reclad within that time. The wall is west facing and doesnt get much weather. thank you

There are a number of different options available to you. For the most economical option we recommend using James Hardie HardiFlex Lining. The vertical and horizontal joints will need to be flashed. Have a look at the HardieFlex Lining Technical Specification for the details.

craig asks: Hello, looking at buying a house and am wanting to know the total cost of recladding a normal 3 bedroom house, an approximate is fine. thank you.

The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for re cladding. It would be easier to give a rough idea if the type of cladding to be used is known. To give you an idea Linea Weatherboard costs roughly $125.00/ m² for new construction.

Rowan Muir asks: Can Linea Weatherboard be used as cladding for an A frame style house roof and what would be the maximium angle recomended? Thanks, Rowan Muir

Linea Weatherboard can not be used as a roofing product. Visit NZ Steel for some suitable roofing options.

Jo Tidswell asks: We have recently brought a house and want to add another room, possibly convert the single garage into a room, or build a room under the house. How much money should we allow for this and what is the difference between an architect and a draughtsman

Without seeing the project it's difficult to give you a price. There are too many variables. Smith and Sons are renovation specialists and offer obligation free quotes. For the difference between an architect and draughtsman see our Getting Started section.

John Jamieson asks: How do I remove a strip of no more nails adhesive

The best option is to use turpentine.

mahsa shahrinia asks: Hi...we are looking at buying a 3 bedroom house that needs a full renovation. We dont want to overspend so, can you give us a broad range on costings per square metre...and/or costing for bathrooms/kitchens/decking etc. Thanks heaps!

That's a really hard question because there are so many variable. General rule is you allow $15-20k for a bathroom and a kitchen could be anywhere from $5 - 80k. It's totally dependant on the fixtures and fittings you go with. As for a deck, again it is dependent on the material you go with, the height etc... You could get a more specific quote from Smith and Sons. You can contact them at www.smithandsons.co.nz.

Frederik Kruger asks: I would like to know what would be the best option. We want to extend our house by either lifting it and building underneath or building on top of our double garage. The garage is fixedc to the house but about one metre lower than the house. the plan is to have two bedrooms, a lounge and dining area.

Generally, building over the top should be easier and more cost effective but we recommend getting in the professionals. You can try Smith and Sons or find an architect on the ADNZ website.

Gary asks: Hi I am extending my place and are trying to cut some costs. can you please tell me how I can re-calculate the H1 (Acceptable Solution) Clause or a reference to where I can find the formulas to do it? My builder asked the designer who drew the plans to see if we could remove or reduce the concrete slab insulation as that is a large cost for little affect for the whole house, His reply was no. So I am hoping to look into it myself as a piece of mind thing. Any advise or info would be great. The concrete slab insulation is recommended to be 200mm thick. Cheers Gary

Refer to NZS4218 standard for guidance.

jennifer jackson asks: Hi Team, I have purchased a 70's concrete block dwelling and it presently has worn brown decramastic tiles that I know are leaking and have many bare patches so a new roof is required. I want to use longrun corrugated iron but wonder if this will be out of place on a home of this era and want to use dark grey. Exterior collour is white but I would prefer something less stark. Thanks JJ

Long run will be fine in this application and is also available in dark grey. Take a look at these websites. MetalCraft Roofing and NZ Steel.

mark woodward asks: i am wantig to know about water proofing products on walking decks for outside over a living area. had a product applied called elastodeck 5000 by nuplex that failed, when to court got money back and now looking to replace/ repair with something else. area is approx 2.5m x 6m

There are many products available in the market which can be used for water proofing. Refer to Branz Appraisals website and check the products suitable for this application.

Gary Bester asks: I want to install a bathroom on a first floor, with treated ply subfloor. I want to install Tile and Slate underlay before tiling. I am told I need to have the installation done by a certified installer. I do all my own DIY. Where can I attend a course to become a certified installer? What products do I use to waterproof the floor before tiling? Thanks Gary

There isn't a requirement to become a certified installer to install Tile and Slate underlay. If you are a person with good understanding of basic building construction then you can install it yourself. Refer to its installation manual for further information. As far as water proofing is concerned you need to select a suitable material after talking to their manufacturers. Refer to BRANZ appraisals website for information on the water proofing membrane products available in the market.

Kim Senior asks: We have recently purchased a beach property which needs painting on the exterior. It was built in the 80's and has brown aluminium joinery. I want to paint the main colour in Onemana but I am not sure on a contrasting colour that will go with the brown joinery - any suggestions?

Why not try a Dulux Colour Consultant for some professional advice. You can book one here.

Judy Rolls asks: My son owns a house in Tauranga and the exterior is Hardiplank with plaster on it. Is there a standard specification that the Hardiplank is installed and is this signed off once completed and held by the Council for the Code of Compliance?

HardiPlank is never plastered. If it has been then the property may not have a code compliance because this is not complying with requirements. Check this with council, they can inform you whether there is a compliance certificate or not.

Terry McIntyre asks: Hi team. What options are available (from lowest cost to highest) in levelling floors in an old villa? The villa was built on ground which apparently has peat in sub-terrain (St Albans/Shirley area of christchurch) and suffers inward sloping towards fireplace hearths (west, between two bedrooms and east, between loung and dining). the sloping is quite significant, maybe about 15cm? The flooring is also bouncing/creaking in places where piles have sunken. Thanks

If it is possible to access the sub floor area then the floor joists can be jacked up. The other option is to use the leveling compounds and then fix a floor covering on the top e.g. tiles, vinyl, carpet etc.

Prashant Trivedy asks: I am currently building my own two storey home. The upper level exterior is going to be palliside weatherboard, and the bottom level Monier bricks. I am finding it extremely difficult to choose which colour of weatherboard to select and which bricks it would match. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

We would recommend using Linea Weatherboard from James Hardie in place of Palliside Weatherboard. This would allow you to paint the weatherboard any colour under the sun! With Linea Weatherboard you can also achieve up to a 90 minute fire resistance rating. Take a look at this fire test of timber vs vinyl vs fibre cement. Good luck!

Peter Christian asks: Re: architectural plans. Do you offer a service where we can get plans draughted either by an architectural or draughting firm...and if so who are they? Thanks Peter

We don't offer that service but we can point you in the right direction. ADNZ have a list of designers nationwide on their website. Click here. Also, Smith and Sons - renovation and extension specialists also offer a design service and can take your job from design to completion.

vance elliott asks: My dad and I are making an old cowshed into a workshop. How could I make this cheaply but livable. I have done all the concreting for the floor. Thanks Vance

We recommend using James Hardie HardieFlex Lining as a cost effective cladding. It's available from all good building merchants.

Michelle asks: Hi there We are making an opening in a brick wall, the opening will be about 1200mm wide x 1800mm high. Im just wondering what specs the beam will need to be, to support the remaining bricks. Thank you

The size of the beam depends on the weight of the wall above the beam and any other structural loading that may be taken by the wall. It is best to get in touch with a designer / engineer who can work the size for you.

Pauline Hutchins asks: We would like to look at recladding our 1920s cottage with Linea Weatherboard. Can you advise what is required and who would be a recommended installer in the New Plymouth area? Thank you.

The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for recladding. If you choose Linea Weatherboard the install cost is roughly $125.00/m² this will vary depending on state of the existing framing and site elevation. Your nearest installer is Smith & Sons Taupo for a quote call 0800 764 842. Visit the James Hardie website for more information on our cladding options.

Bruce asks: We have a double-story house which is showing signs of cracking. We are therefore faced with a complete re-clad. We will probably opt for Linea Weatherboard. In order to keep costs down and break up the monotone appearance, could you suggest some other products which we could use in conjunction with Linea Weatherboard. This particularly applies to a large balcony we have running around two sides of the house which is going to consume a lot of cladding material. Thankyou.

There are a couple of options for you. If you're looking for a contemporary industrial look, Titan Facade Panel is a flat panel with negative jointing. Another option is Axon Panel which has subtle vertical lines that can be painted any colour in the spectrum, including black. There are some great examples of composite cladded homes under our exterior tips and tricks section of this website. If you'd like printed material sent out to you, email your address to info@thedrawingboard.co.nz. We can also recommend a builder to you that specialises in rennovation jobs. Smith and Sons on 0800 764 842 or www.smithandsons.co.nz.

Russell Paterson asks: We are currently having a house clad in Linea Weatherboard in Marlborough Sounds by Graeme Taylor Builders. We plan to paint it ourselves and are wondering what paint we should use.1) Under Coat for Aluminum corner flashings & 2) Top coat for it. Thanks Russell Paterson

You can use Dulux Prime Acryl undercoats and Dulux Weathershield top coats which comply with AS3730 standard specified in E2/As1 and our technical specification. Dulux provides a 10 year warranty on their paints.

brian morton asks: Could you please advise the best method to repair joint cracking on James Hardie fibre cement sheet which has been plaster textured. Thanks brian

It is important to understand first why the joints cracking. The hair line cracks can be fixed by applying a high build paint. We suggest you talk to paint manufacturers e.g. Dulux for further information.

Liz asks: Is it possible to put Linea weatherboards over brick cladding? We are looking at buying a house and I need to know if it can be done. If not can you give me a ball park idea of how much it might cost to reclad. It is a single story 3 bedroom house. Thanks Liz

The brick cladding most probably is just a veneer (single brick) and is not suitable to install Linea Weatherboard, unless it is a solid wall e.g. filled concrete block wall. You can discuss the installation of Linea weatherboard further with James Hardie on 0800 808 868.

sarah purdom asks: Hi I am looking at purchasing a small 2 bedroom unit in christchurch but would like to extend it by about 5 - 10m2 but want to know if this is possible to do before I purchase the property who do i need to talk to see if it can be done? Thank you for your help

Contact your local council and check with them to see if it can be done first. Then enlist the services of a designer or architect.

Mike W asks: How long will Fibrolite sheet cladding last? Our place is 50 years old - how can I tell when it will need replacing? Is Fibrolite a good quality product?

It is expected to last over 50 years. However, like all cladding products it depends on the maintenance e.g. coating and cleaning of the cladding done at regular intervals.

RAJ asks: Hi. I am thinking of extending my house to add an extra toilet batroom and a spa, approx less than 10 sq met. do i have get a plans done for this and apply for a building consent?

Yes you will. A consent is required for any extension and plumbing works. See your local council for more information.

Clarry Inwood asks: What would you recommend as the most suitable cladding to fix over existing rusticated weather board. Preferably low maintenance.

It is not that easy to fix another cladding over an existing weatherboard. We recommend you need to discuss this with a builder/designer who can come and do a site inspection.

Ida Mah asks: We are renovating our 1960's house and have removed the ugly tacked-on front door area because we have installed a new stacker door, that leads to the deck, next to it. We now encounter 2 problems: 1. The new weatherboard size doesn't match the old. We don't have the funds to reclad the whole wall/ house. The weatherboards in the rest of the house are in good condition. 2.There's also an area above the old front door which has vertical boards. How can we make this area, which is the first area visitors see when they walk up to the house, look modern and tidy. We are gutting the lounge and kitchen and dining to make an open plan area.

For your first issue, the only option would be reclad the wall or to create a join in the weatherboards to enable you to only reclad a portion. You would still however notice the difference in weatherboard widths. If you wish to replace the vertical boards, try using Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.

Kyle beetham asks: I heard that Linea Weatherboard is failing by absorbing water where it is drilled for the nail holes is this true?

Rest assured that you can't go wrong by selecting Linea Weatherboard cladding used on your house. It's supported by a product warranty of 25 years which no other company does in the market.

Paul van den Berg asks: I want to put a clearlite roof over the deck. Angled back down to use the house gutter. How do I attach the new roof bearers to the barge board and get the new roof to flow into the existing gutter?

It is easy, you can fix the roof bearers to ends of roof rafters of the existing roof.

Stephanie Graham asks: We have an architecturally designed 1950's house and need to replace the louvre windows - we need some with silver coloured working bits as opposed to black. It would be great if someone knows how to source these as my research on the internet has proved fruitless so far. Thanks for your time.

Have you tried www.louvretec.co.nz?

Kam Kamath asks: We have a early 80s brick & tile house with million dollar sea views. We plan on retrofitting this house into a modern house. Don't know where to start.

Firstly, take a look at our Getting Started section of this website. Start collecting ideas you like from magazines. You can talk to builders to get ideas. Smith and Sons are renovation experts and do free quotes. Click on Get a Quote on this website and we can get someone out to you to help.

Desiree De Courcy asks: Hi. I have just discovered your website which looks great as we are about to start renovating our bungalow. We have an idea of the design we want to achieve but are not sure if we need an architect or if we only need an architectural designer. My question is do you have any architects or architectural designers that you would recommend in Auckland for a traditional bungalow? Thanks

We would recommend contacting NZIA or ADNZ. For an explaination of these organisations visit Getting Started section of this website.

Annette Basel asks: Hi, We've bought an old 60's brick and tile and I'm wanting to know how I can modernise the outside, it looks really dated. The brick is the red brick with dark grout. Many thanks Annette

That's a tough one. You could always contact your local Master Painter and see if you can paint over the brick. Depending on your budget, you could always look at a re-clad.

Alison Dackers asks: Hi there, the bottom level of our house is clad in some sort of fibrolite sheeting. The upper level is clad in cedar rusticated weatherboards. We would like to replace the cladding of the lower level with the same cedar weatherboards. Do we require consent to carry out this work? Thanks, Alison.

Yes, all cladding work requires a consent.

Karena asks: Hi. I have a house clad in old James Hardie weatherboard. They are the 300mm profile. Unfortunately they are of the 'biscuit board' type and most of them are rotten. Linea does not come in this profile so I am faced with a complete re-clad which I can not afford. Are there any cheaper (but still recommended) options for re-cladding a single level basic L shape dwelling? Thanks for your help

Of course. You could try James Hardie Smooth Weatherboard which is a more economical option and comes in a 305mm wide width. The other option is to opt for a sheet product that is quicker to installation like Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.

C Dixon asks: Our house currently has a corrugated compressed cement sheet roof which is very old. We are looking to replace this with a coloursteel long run roof. Do we require consent for this?

There was a ruling regarding re-roofing that meant that you required a building consent unless you were replacing like with like. This has however been enforced differently across the country with differing interpretations from the Territorial Authorities. The best thing to do would be to contact your local council and ask them directly. As the cost of a building consent will not be priced into any reroof quotes, the liability should you proceed without one and be caught out, would rest solely with you. For more information contact Metalcraft Roofing.

siobhan o'donnell asks: Can you remove the hearth the fireplace from the chimney without it falling down? (the chimney)

It is not possible to answer this question without actually looking at the job. We recommend getting a professional around to take a look at the job. You can contact Smith and Sons on 0800 764842.

dave carmody asks: If a house is so low to the ground that you cannot get under it and it needs to be repiled, (some part appear to be siting on rock!) will the house need to be lifted, if so how much approx will it cost? The house is 110m2

Have a look at this website www.repile.co.nz - they will be able to help you.

Craig asks: We are in the process of buying a house clad in Hardiplank, it was built in 1993. Can you advise if there is anything we would need to check or should look out for based on the age of the home? Is Hardiplank prone to leaking or dampness problems? Does the Hardiplank used in 1993 contain asbestos?

Check that the product has been installed as per the installation manual of that time. This can be obtained by phoning 0800 808868. It does not contain asbestos.

Rachel asks: We have a 1940's house that needs quite a lot of work. I really don't know what the best and most economical thing to do is i.e. do we invest in renovations? do we use the bones to re-build? Do we rip it down and put up a show home? I don't know where to go for this advice?? A builder? Architect? Designer? Your help would be greatly appreciated.

You could talk to either a builder or a designer. If it's a designer you're after, take a look at www.adnz.co.nz. If you're after a builder, contact Smith and Sons www.smithandsons.co.nz who are renovation specialists. They will be able to give you a good idea of costs and would be a great place to start.

Raj asks: Some of my windows in my house have buckled a bit and I want to doubleglaze all the windows. Do I have to replace the whole windows and frames to do this or can I replace only the window with an aluminium window or get someone to fix the buckled windows and double glaze them? Need a cheaper alternative.

Contact 0508 800 755 to be connected to your local Nulook Licensee. It will require a site visit to asertain how bad the current windows are and what steps can be taken to fix the problem. With all joinery, steps can be taken to retrofit double glazing but you first need to asertain how bad the problem is with your current joinery, and this will require a tradesman comming out and having a look.

Roni Martin asks: I am trying to work out a colour scheme for my new build house. How do I do this without employing the services of an expensive interior designer?

Try a Dulux Colour Consultant. They're a cost effective option. Book one here.

Levi Freeborn asks: What sort of permit design do i need to re-purlin and re-roof a house?

A permit may be required if you are changing the type of roof. For example Longrun to Tile, however this can vary from council to council depending on their interpretation. With regards to purlin replacement it would depend upon the amount of purlins replaced. It's always better to contact your local council due to some of the interpretation discrepancies before you start.

Amanda Mackenzie asks: We have a backyard surface which is all orange/terrocotta coloured tiles. This is very ugly and we want to know if we can change the colour of the tiles? Alos can we lay other tiles directly over these or build a deck over these?

Gnerally speaking you can't recolour tiles. Building a deck over the top of them is an option.

Micaela asks: I would like to extend our new home by adding an area that would be around 6m by 2m. this would be 2 more rooms. Any ideas how much this might cost us for the consents? We are part of Manukau city Council.

Visit your local council website for this information. Click here for costs for Manukau City Council.

Lindi Colby asks: We are looking at alterations/additions to our home and/or putting a cottage on the property. However we need to look at the pros and cons in terms of costs and one of the main factors is the average building cost per square metre when building. I know this is a bit vague but I need a starting point.

The cost of any hosue depends on the specification of the house. the average cost varies between $1300-1500/m2.

Vik asks: I have a fibrolite cladding walls and would like to know if I need to add prima whilst painting the exterior or can I just paint directly with the paint? Do I need to sand it before painting? Can I use wet and forget and wash the wall with a telecopic brush as maintenance and how often I need to do this?

You should not need to sand the wall. It is better to prime the wall first and then give it a minimum two coats of paint. For washing down you can use a soap stick and telescopic brush.

Pamela.kirk asks: Can Axon be painted or does it come in a range of colours?

Axon Panel from James Hardie is not pre-finished. However, it is manufactured using CLD technology and can be painted any colour of the spectrum, even black!

Carolyn Senior asks: We have fibrolite cladding on front of studio. The front door has no cover to stop driving rain what could we do about this. Any suggestion would be a help.

You can put a small awning or a projection to deflect the water away

John asks: I want to build a lean to roof over my deck and just want to see some drawings/designs for the build eg. fixing bearer to outside of house and runnning rafters out etc? Where can I see some accepted drawings of this or even step by step guide? Many thanks

There are no generic drawings for this type of situation. You would need to get an architect or designer to create drawings specifically for your application.

Jim asks: We are looking at a house that is built out of Fibrolite? What should we be looking out for with this type of cladding? Also the estate agent has said it is weatherboard with plaster over the top? How can we check?

The main thing is the cladding must be installed as per its installation manual. The weatherboards are not plastered. So you should get in touch with a builder who has experience of claddings.

Stephen asks: The building paper in our roof cavity is ripped and sagging in places causing dripping from condensation. Is it possible to replace the building paper?

It is not easy to replace the building paper without replacing the roofing.