Daniel Rowe asks: Hi, our garage which is clad in hardiplank has a terrace above which is basically hardfill.
The problem is that when we pulled back some topsoil we discovered that the hardfill had broken through the hardiplank and filled the wall cavities in the garage.
We've dug out the 45-50cm of hardfill and are wanting to know what we should use to re-clad the garage with that can withstand the pressure of the hardfill but will also be watertight over the years.
So far there is no interior or structural damage/rotting etc.
Thanks, Dan
Hi Dan, By the information provided it sounds like your missing a retaining wall which will pending the form of retainer also be missing the tanking and backfill etc…?( fibre cement is not for retaining purposes etc..) so a retaining wall as per above would be required and than a clear cavity from the retaining wall to the external cladding and frame work or the retaining wall with tanking and backfill drainage becomes a part of the internal wall envelop itself. You should contact an earth works construction company or block layers etc… refer to attached websites for costing and breakdowns.. http://www.tradebox.co.nz/pb_job_breakdown_1.asp?Category=New+Homes+%26+Renovations http://www.gabions.co.nz/Concrete_Block_Retaining_Wall.htm?gclid=CLyUu4zagK4CFWm-tgodJHIP3A Regards The James Hardie Team
Eleanor asks: Can you advise how to dispose of empty paint tins, please? The inorganic collection won't tke them; the Hazchem drop-off place won't take them; the local builder supply company has stopped taking them. How do I get rid of them? Thanks
Hi Eleanor This is a tough question for me to answer. But I suggest you go to this link and I am sure you will get your answer there http://www.resene.co.nz/paintwise.htm The James Hardie Team
Neil John McDonald asks: I wish to build a garden shed 2.50m x 4.00m (10.00sq metres internal), the floor is to be on piles and the roof to be sloping from the longest wall facing east to the opposite and slightly lower western wall. Neither Placemakers nor Mitre 10 Mega in my town of Paraparaumu can help me with the basic design. Can you assist please.
Many thanks
Neil McDonald
Some Merchants may offer a "design" and "take off' service but you may first need to check with council regarding the project as site coverage (impermeable surface requirements) may need to be considered. Most garage companies offer a kitset option and this woud be a cost effective and simple option you could consider, as the plans have all been designed to comply structurally, and some companies can have a custom design made up for you if one of their std size plans does not suit.
Stasi asks: Hi, recently I bought a garage for demolition and I am hoping to relocate it and put it up on my section.
The garage itself is well built and very standard and it was also cheap. I think that I understand the provisions of the building code fairly well but have a couple of questions about a few of the building consent questions regarding the plan. I hope to do the majority of the building consent application myself and am wondering if there is someone I can ring that I can just talk about the few details with that won't charge the earth. That is whether it be a designer, builder etc. that can give me the bits of advice I need without having to contract them for all the bits I can do myself.
Thanks
If the questions relate to the actual plan/structure of the garage you are best to call into the local council and ask to tak to someone in the building dept. This will not cost you anything,. Make an appointment if you can, tell them what you plan so you can have a specified time allocated and they can also be prepared. Take the plans of the garage if you have any, plus your existing house/site plans as you will need to advise exactly where you intend to locate the garage on site (distance to boundaries etc.) Site coverage will also need to be evaluated, is there going to be a concrete driveway going up to the garage (impermeable surface requirements) and is there spouting on the garage that needs to be connected into stormwater or a soakhole, and power to the garage? Once you determine the regulations, then you can talk to a local builder and work out what part of the job you are able to undertake yourself but electrical and drainage will need to be carried out by a registered contractor and signed off.
Trish asks: What is the average price to raise a 100 sqm house and put a block basement underneath?
Thanks for your enquiry. This can vary greatly from job to job, so you really need to talk to a designer first to check on structure/ engineering/ foundations/ load bearing requirements/ drainage etc. Once you have a basic scheme plan done, you can talk to a builder and get a rough idea, however engineering, drawing up full working plans, consent costs, etc will all need to be taken into consideration. Your Designer will also be able to advise you onn Coucnil regulations regarding height to boundary requirements. You may also need a Resource consent so these costs need to be confirmed first. You may need a geotechnical report (soil report) also. From the team at The Drawing Board.
Tammi asks: Hi there,
What is the best material to line a concrete floor in the garage? Currently, there are bits of carpet with some mould along one wall. It is currently being used as a study/games room and for storage! Or maybe line the wall to prevent the water damage?
Thank you
If you are planning to keep the garage as a games room/study you may find it beneficial to line the floor with a garage or marine carpet. It is designed to take on water as it has no underlay.
ray wilson asks: what kind of prep do i need to do to paint a concret floor i have filled all of th holes and cracks in the floor it is about 20 years old and it had carpet on the floor and what kind of paint do i use
thank you
ray
Give the floor a clean with Selleys Sugar Soap and let it dry thoroughly. The surface needs to be as clean as possible. Under coat the concrete with Dulux AquaTread Undercoat this is clear and gives outstanding adhesion to the concrete. Then top coat with Dulux AquaTread, this will dry to a hard wearing fashionable satin finish. All these products are water based.
Vicki asks: We are wanting to convert internal garage to rumpus/gym room containing a shower and toilet and changing garage door to glass sliders. How do we go about the design etc.
If you're looking for someone to take the job from design to completion, we recommend contacting Smith and Sons. You can visit them at www.smithandsons.co.nz or phone them on 0800 764842. If you're just wanting a designer for now, we recommend looking at ADNZ. They list their designers at www.adnz.co.nz.
Kathy asks: Our new concrete slab for our garage extension was damaged by heavy rain when it was laid. The contractor has arranged to have it ground. Will the garage floor require any additional seal/paint after grinding or will it be fine to use as is.
Without seeing the project it is difficult to give an opinion. However generally the floor should be fine after it has been grinded.
Sarah Pipi asks: I really like the look of Linea Weatherboard but I currently have a timber weatherboard home. Can I use Linea Weatherboard for my extension?
Yes, of course. Linea Weatherboard is available in three widths to suit your renovation project - 135, 150 and 180mm. For more information visit www.jamesdhardie.co.nz
Todd asks: My neighbour has used Linea Weatherboard on their new home and have painted it black - it looks fantastic. I want to use it on my reclad but is painting it black okay?
Yes. You can paint Linea Weatherboard any colour of the spectrum - including black! See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.
C.F.Reed asks: I am planning an extension on to our lounge, with 12mm CD ply as cladding and bracing. I have NZS3604:1990, which tells me how to calculate the number of bracing units I require for walls, floor, and roof, but I am unable to find any method to determine how to achieve the required values, except for vertical walls, in Appendix K. How do I do it? Assume that I have a good grasp of practical mathematics.
BRANZ offer bracing calculation sheets which you can get by clicking here. Also make sure you are using the current version of NZS 3604 which is dated 1999.
Kylie Ward asks: Hi I live in Totara Heights in Manukau and am painting - I am looking for a color consultant to help choose paint colors and get a good opinion - can you recommend a good person thanks kylie
Hi Kylie, You can book a Dulux colour consultant here
emma williams asks: Hi, if a house has a brick exterior, can Linea Weatherboards be fixed to them to totally update the look, without ripping the building down!? Can you please supply and indication of cost PLM too.
The brick would need to be removed before Linea Weatherboard could be applied. Your local council would need to be consulted regarding the change of cladding and a simple risk score analysis undertaken. This will let you know if Linea Weatherboard can be direct fixed or needs to be applied over a cavity. The flashing details would need to be looked at by a designer to ensure weathertightness. For a quote for your re-clad contact Smith and Sons
Carol asks: I have recently purchased an old 1950s home with fibrolite exterior. Some of the panels are damaged and I would like to replace with different exterior. What are my options?
James Hardie offer a number of different style exterior claddings from weatherboard eg.Linea Weatherboard to flat sheets like Titan Facade Panel or HardieFlex Sheet. For more information visit www.jameshardie.co.nz
Carol asks: Are there any restrictions or rules regarding the removal of old building materials that may contain asbestos, other than wrapping the material in building plastic before disposing, and dampening the material before removal. I am also assuming that masks, and gloves are worn. Do I need to get a special contractor to do this work or can any builder do this as part of my renovation project?
It is always best to consult the Occupational Health and Safety Website for this information and check with local council where product can be taken too.
Gary Bint asks: Hi, We are looking into buying a old villa type house,the exterior cladding is old hardiplank and stucco, how can we modernise the look, can we install a weatherboard over the top?and what costs would we be looking at. Thanks
The cladding should be removed as it is difficult to install product over existing cladding due to flashing modifications and compliance. Find out the age of the cladding so that any handling concerns can be addressed. When the cladding is removed it is a good time to install insulation to help keep your home warm and dry.
Mary Williams asks: We own a summerhill stone house and have never really liked the look of the exterior. We are planning on doing some renovations soon and are wondering how we could change the look of the exterior of the house to make it look more modern
Recladding is a great way to to update the look of your home, however this could become very costly. If you are looking for something more cost effective then perhaps talk to a texture plasterer about rendering over the stone to modernise it.
prakash lal asks: I am planing an extension to our property in Takanini. Could you please recommend a competent builder Thanks
Smith and Sons are a nationwide franchise of builders. www.smithandsons.co.nz or freecall on 0800 764842.
Dan curios asks: Hi, what is the best solid plaster systems to use for a house exterior ? what is the average hourly rate for a builder in hamilton ? what is the average hourly rate for a draughtsmen in hamilton ? ( so i dont get ripped off on up coming work).
The only solid plaster system is that which complies with NZS 4251. Textured coatings must comply with EM4 of New Zealand Building Code. On average the cost per square meter is $80 - $100. If you want a smooth finish, then specialised angles etc.. will be required which will push this cost up. For accurate pricing, we recommend getting three quotes.
Phil asks: I wish to build on an extension to an existing bedroom. When calculating the glazing requirements for the extension does the existing bedroom dimensions for each wall (obivously without windows) allow me to increase the amount of glazing in each of the walls of the new extension? I wish to maximise the glazing in the extension to gain light, view and solar gain. Which guidance documents will explain this?
The document you are refering to is the H1 Compliance Document for New Zealand Building Code Energy Efficiency – Third Edition. This document can be viewed on the department of building and housing website www.dbh.govt.nz. Please view this document as there are a number of factors that contribute towards the thermal envelope of a building.
fillicia asks: Hi there We're currently live in a 2 bedroom house (crosslease) build in 1940. We're thinking about adding extra room on top. We went to city council for the house's info but they cant tell us anything re. the house because its build in 1940. My questions are what should we do next? if its an architect that we need do you have any suggestion? should we contact the architect first and do the budgeting later on or do budget first? many thanks for you help fillicia
The council most probably do not have any drawings or details of your property. If you're looking to extend you should get in touch with a designer or architect who will draw the plans for the whole house, with the new addition in it as well. The drawings of the existing house are required for the council records. The next step is to do your budget on the basis of how big the extension is.
Murray Stevenson asks: We are doing an extension and weighing up timber weatherboard v linea. We have heard some bad reports about linea weatherboard. Do we need to be wary of this new product?
Linea Weatherboard has been on the market for approximately 9 years. It has been tested by BRANZ (Building Research Association NZ) and complies with their requirements. It certainly offers benefits that competitor products don't, like a 90 minute fire resistance rating, 25 year warranty and they can be painted dark colours (even black) without the risk of warping and twisting. James Hardie also have a number of recognised installers nationwide. They are skilled in the application of fibre cement building products and have the correct tooling for best practice and speedy installation. They can be found at www.jameshardie.co.nz.
Charlene asks: I am looking to renovate the exterior of my home. Presently my home is clad in an old Hardies product designed to look like fake bricks, it's a fawny colour the bottom with larger panels on top. I am wondering if you still stock this product, or if you know where I might be able to get hold of some. Cheers :^
This product is no longer on the market. James Hardie do offer a number of other cladding options. Visit www.jameshardie.co.nz
Brian asks: Hi,we building a new deck and would like to put a waterproof cover on it,something other than butynol ? can you help?
There are many other types of waterproofing membranes available in the market. You can refer to Branz web site for more information. www.branz.org.nz
Michelle Collings asks: Hi we are putting up coving in a 15 year old house. Would appreciate any tips to make the process easier. Thanks
Installing coving is essentially a skilled job and we would recommend getting in the professionals. However some things to look out for are how to cut the cove to suit the internal or external corners. The cove must be cut face down at 45 degree cut. You should probably cut and join one or two corners using samll pieces on the floor beforehand to ensure that the angle and the cut is suitable for the corners. The main thing is there shouldn't be any gaps beteeen the joins. The coves can be screw fixed, nail fixed or glued.
Janne asks: Hi, I have a weatherboard home & I am wanting to lift my house up. I am wondering what the best option would be please? Would brick blocks or timber be the best base for this? Also can you give me an indication as to who would be the best people to contact to do this work please?
The quickest option to lift a house is to use the timber base. You can use weatherboards on the base to match the main cladding. You should contact the house moving companies for this and you can find their details in the yellow pages or talk to your builder.
PETER asks: Hi, We are in the process of deciding on claddings for a new build house. Can you suggest a suitable 2nd lightweight spray textured cladding that would work well with corrugated steel laid horizontally? Thanks
The only suitable options for lightweight cladding is Monotek Sheet from James Hardie or a stucco plaster system using HardieBacker Substrate. See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.
Corinne asks: I want to enclose my deck in order to add more room to my one bedroom unit. I would like to use something that will give me privacy from the neighbours but still lets in some light and warmth. What materials would you recommend I use.
You could use glass to keep the light coming through and wind out. Frosting over the glass will give you privacy. You'll need to check with your local council on any regulations you might need to meet.
Harry asks: Is it legal to build without a permit. I would like to add another two rooms to my home. I have previously tried to build a garage on my large basically empty block, but after spending $8,000 and another $4000 the council required me to spend also for illogical nonsense I pulled the plug on the project.
You must not undertake any construction activity without a building permit. There are huge penalties which can be imposed on you to build without a permit. All major building works do require a building consent as set out in the Building Act 2004. A building consent ensures what is being built is meets health and safety requirements and building code requirements. A code of compliance certificate can not be issued without it. You can view the act online at View the Act online (www.legislation.govt.nz) or Department of Building and Housing (www.dbh.govt.nz)
Dean Osborne asks: I have just brought a house built in 1975, with a deck and carport added in 1978 then a conservatory built over part of the deck in 1986 Parts of the conservatory floor are rotten which I do not see as too much of a problem to fix. The deck on the other hand may require a little bit of planing out The deck area is approximately 5250x3900 lined with fibulite with a so called waterproof rubber membrane on top The fibulite is cracked and broken in places and so needs replacing The deck is at the same level as the floor of the house and so there are signs of seepage into the floor of the house (when you are under the house looking up) Under the deck is the carport with concrete floor and lined walls, the ceiling & parts of the wall lining have long since rotted away because of the water leaking down from the deck All the water collecting in the carport pools up against the back wall & concrete floor At this stage I am thinking I can fix these problems by removing the fibulite, keep the existing treated wood joists, put down a product such as permadeck- the gaps in the deck will allow the water to drain down passed the joists, which should fix the problem of water seepage into the floor of house. On the underside of the deck (carport ceiling area) possibly putting up corrugated iron with some fall on it and spouting system to safely divert the water away from the carport floor Do you think this will work and do you have any other ideas? Cheers Dean
We would recommend replacing your existing fibrolite material with James Hardie HardiPanel Compressed sheet 18mm thick. Get this fully covered with a waterproofing membrane. The deck should be sloping to the exterior and the entire run off the deck can be collected in a guttering and disposed off to the ground. This will save you putting a corrugated roof under the deck. Make sure the joists are in good condition.
Brenda asks: Hello. I have a 1940's art deco house with a leaky rook. As I have already replaced the roof once- around 8 years ago, and that hasn't fixed the problems, I now blame the design of the flat roof with internal gutters. I did get Grey Skills in to see whether the leaks could be fixed, but the men who came to look at the problem said it wasn't possible to know if the problems could be fixed and how much it would cost. I just want a dry roof over my head. I am not too concerned at retaining the art deco character of the existing roof. If I have to put a traditional roof with peaks and eaves on in order to get rid of my problems with the roof leaking, I will. Could you tell me how I can get a dry house for the least disruption and cost. If I am putting on a new roof, I would probably want to have some attic like storage in the roof and insulation. Thank you, Brenda
In years gone by the minimum pitch for tray section roofing was 1 degree. That has in recent times been increased to 3 degrees. It sounds as though there is an inherent problem with the design. If it were a material issue then the reroofing project would have solved the problem. Without seeing the property we can’t tell you exactly but our initial reaction to your question is that you should do two things. 1. Increase the current pitch of your roof – the current low pitch could be resulting in ponding or pooling 2. If possible get rid of the internal gutter design and have the roof drain the water outside the line of the building. As an extra item to check, I assume your roof has a parapet wall. I would ensure that if any chase cuts have been made to the inside of the parapet they have been done and sealed correctly. I would also check that the parapet flashings have a fall on them so water can’t pond or pool on them. If the parapet is solely reliant on the caps for waterproofing at the top then it may be that a secondary barrier be installed under the existing caps. I would also check that when the roof was replaced they installed roofing paper under the roof. Any penetrations through the roof should be properly sealed around, this includes TV aerials and Sky dishes. Also ensure they used a breathable building paper and not a foil. As you can see there are many things that could be causing the leak problems you are experiencing. We recommend getting in touch with Metalcraft Roofing and get them to come and look at the roof and provide a professional opinion.
Grant Leach asks: Can Linea Board be placed over exisiting brick work?
If it is face brick then not, it can't. If it's concrete blocks filled with concrete then you can fix a batten over and then fix the Linea Weatherboard into it.
Georgina Mac Rae asks: I am closing up an external opening and would like to know what board I can use externally to attach to new studs. It will need to be weather proof for only about a year as we are planning a complete reclad within that time. The wall is west facing and doesnt get much weather. thank you
There are a number of different options available to you. For the most economical option we recommend using James Hardie HardiFlex Lining. The vertical and horizontal joints will need to be flashed. Have a look at the HardieFlex Lining Technical Specification for the details.
craig asks: Hello, looking at buying a house and am wanting to know the total cost of recladding a normal 3 bedroom house, an approximate is fine. thank you.
The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for re cladding. It would be easier to give a rough idea if the type of cladding to be used is known. To give you an idea Linea Weatherboard costs roughly $125.00/ m² for new construction.
Rowan Muir asks: Can Linea Weatherboard be used as cladding for an A frame style house roof and what would be the maximium angle recomended? Thanks, Rowan Muir
Linea Weatherboard can not be used as a roofing product. Visit NZ Steel for some suitable roofing options.
Jo Tidswell asks: We have recently brought a house and want to add another room, possibly convert the single garage into a room, or build a room under the house. How much money should we allow for this and what is the difference between an architect and a draughtsman
Without seeing the project it's difficult to give you a price. There are too many variables. Smith and Sons are renovation specialists and offer obligation free quotes. For the difference between an architect and draughtsman see our Getting Started section.
John Jamieson asks: How do I remove a strip of no more nails adhesive
The best option is to use turpentine.
mahsa shahrinia asks: Hi...we are looking at buying a 3 bedroom house that needs a full renovation. We dont want to overspend so, can you give us a broad range on costings per square metre...and/or costing for bathrooms/kitchens/decking etc. Thanks heaps!
That's a really hard question because there are so many variable. General rule is you allow $15-20k for a bathroom and a kitchen could be anywhere from $5 - 80k. It's totally dependant on the fixtures and fittings you go with. As for a deck, again it is dependent on the material you go with, the height etc... You could get a more specific quote from Smith and Sons. You can contact them at www.smithandsons.co.nz.
Frederik Kruger asks: I would like to know what would be the best option. We want to extend our house by either lifting it and building underneath or building on top of our double garage. The garage is fixedc to the house but about one metre lower than the house. the plan is to have two bedrooms, a lounge and dining area.
Generally, building over the top should be easier and more cost effective but we recommend getting in the professionals. You can try Smith and Sons or find an architect on the ADNZ website.
Gary asks: Hi I am extending my place and are trying to cut some costs. can you please tell me how I can re-calculate the H1 (Acceptable Solution) Clause or a reference to where I can find the formulas to do it? My builder asked the designer who drew the plans to see if we could remove or reduce the concrete slab insulation as that is a large cost for little affect for the whole house, His reply was no. So I am hoping to look into it myself as a piece of mind thing. Any advise or info would be great. The concrete slab insulation is recommended to be 200mm thick. Cheers Gary
Refer to NZS4218 standard for guidance.
jennifer jackson asks: Hi Team, I have purchased a 70's concrete block dwelling and it presently has worn brown decramastic tiles that I know are leaking and have many bare patches so a new roof is required. I want to use longrun corrugated iron but wonder if this will be out of place on a home of this era and want to use dark grey. Exterior collour is white but I would prefer something less stark. Thanks JJ
Long run will be fine in this application and is also available in dark grey. Take a look at these websites. MetalCraft Roofing and NZ Steel.
mark woodward asks: i am wantig to know about water proofing products on walking decks for outside over a living area. had a product applied called elastodeck 5000 by nuplex that failed, when to court got money back and now looking to replace/ repair with something else. area is approx 2.5m x 6m
There are many products available in the market which can be used for water proofing. Refer to Branz Appraisals website and check the products suitable for this application.
Gary Bester asks: I want to install a bathroom on a first floor, with treated ply subfloor. I want to install Tile and Slate underlay before tiling. I am told I need to have the installation done by a certified installer. I do all my own DIY. Where can I attend a course to become a certified installer? What products do I use to waterproof the floor before tiling? Thanks Gary
There isn't a requirement to become a certified installer to install Tile and Slate underlay. If you are a person with good understanding of basic building construction then you can install it yourself. Refer to its installation manual for further information. As far as water proofing is concerned you need to select a suitable material after talking to their manufacturers. Refer to BRANZ appraisals website for information on the water proofing membrane products available in the market.
Kim Senior asks: We have recently purchased a beach property which needs painting on the exterior. It was built in the 80's and has brown aluminium joinery. I want to paint the main colour in Onemana but I am not sure on a contrasting colour that will go with the brown joinery - any suggestions?
Why not try a Dulux Colour Consultant for some professional advice. You can book one here.
Judy Rolls asks: My son owns a house in Tauranga and the exterior is Hardiplank with plaster on it. Is there a standard specification that the Hardiplank is installed and is this signed off once completed and held by the Council for the Code of Compliance?
HardiPlank is never plastered. If it has been then the property may not have a code compliance because this is not complying with requirements. Check this with council, they can inform you whether there is a compliance certificate or not.
Terry McIntyre asks: Hi team. What options are available (from lowest cost to highest) in levelling floors in an old villa? The villa was built on ground which apparently has peat in sub-terrain (St Albans/Shirley area of christchurch) and suffers inward sloping towards fireplace hearths (west, between two bedrooms and east, between loung and dining). the sloping is quite significant, maybe about 15cm? The flooring is also bouncing/creaking in places where piles have sunken. Thanks
If it is possible to access the sub floor area then the floor joists can be jacked up. The other option is to use the leveling compounds and then fix a floor covering on the top e.g. tiles, vinyl, carpet etc.
Prashant Trivedy asks: I am currently building my own two storey home. The upper level exterior is going to be palliside weatherboard, and the bottom level Monier bricks. I am finding it extremely difficult to choose which colour of weatherboard to select and which bricks it would match. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
We would recommend using Linea Weatherboard from James Hardie in place of Palliside Weatherboard. This would allow you to paint the weatherboard any colour under the sun! With Linea Weatherboard you can also achieve up to a 90 minute fire resistance rating. Take a look at this fire test of timber vs vinyl vs fibre cement. Good luck!
Peter Christian asks: Re: architectural plans. Do you offer a service where we can get plans draughted either by an architectural or draughting firm...and if so who are they? Thanks Peter
We don't offer that service but we can point you in the right direction. ADNZ have a list of designers nationwide on their website. Click here. Also, Smith and Sons - renovation and extension specialists also offer a design service and can take your job from design to completion.
vance elliott asks: My dad and I are making an old cowshed into a workshop. How could I make this cheaply but livable. I have done all the concreting for the floor. Thanks Vance
We recommend using James Hardie HardieFlex Lining as a cost effective cladding. It's available from all good building merchants.
Michelle asks: Hi there We are making an opening in a brick wall, the opening will be about 1200mm wide x 1800mm high. Im just wondering what specs the beam will need to be, to support the remaining bricks. Thank you
The size of the beam depends on the weight of the wall above the beam and any other structural loading that may be taken by the wall. It is best to get in touch with a designer / engineer who can work the size for you.
Pauline Hutchins asks: We would like to look at recladding our 1920s cottage with Linea Weatherboard. Can you advise what is required and who would be a recommended installer in the New Plymouth area? Thank you.
The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for recladding. If you choose Linea Weatherboard the install cost is roughly $125.00/m² this will vary depending on state of the existing framing and site elevation. Your nearest installer is Smith & Sons Taupo for a quote call 0800 764 842. Visit the James Hardie website for more information on our cladding options.
Bruce asks: We have a double-story house which is showing signs of cracking. We are therefore faced with a complete re-clad. We will probably opt for Linea Weatherboard. In order to keep costs down and break up the monotone appearance, could you suggest some other products which we could use in conjunction with Linea Weatherboard. This particularly applies to a large balcony we have running around two sides of the house which is going to consume a lot of cladding material. Thankyou.
There are a couple of options for you. If you're looking for a contemporary industrial look, Titan Facade Panel is a flat panel with negative jointing. Another option is Axon Panel which has subtle vertical lines that can be painted any colour in the spectrum, including black. There are some great examples of composite cladded homes under our exterior tips and tricks section of this website. If you'd like printed material sent out to you, email your address to info@thedrawingboard.co.nz. We can also recommend a builder to you that specialises in rennovation jobs. Smith and Sons on 0800 764 842 or www.smithandsons.co.nz.
Russell Paterson asks: We are currently having a house clad in Linea Weatherboard in Marlborough Sounds by Graeme Taylor Builders. We plan to paint it ourselves and are wondering what paint we should use.1) Under Coat for Aluminum corner flashings & 2) Top coat for it. Thanks Russell Paterson
You can use Dulux Prime Acryl undercoats and Dulux Weathershield top coats which comply with AS3730 standard specified in E2/As1 and our technical specification. Dulux provides a 10 year warranty on their paints.
brian morton asks: Could you please advise the best method to repair joint cracking on James Hardie fibre cement sheet which has been plaster textured. Thanks brian
It is important to understand first why the joints cracking. The hair line cracks can be fixed by applying a high build paint. We suggest you talk to paint manufacturers e.g. Dulux for further information.
Liz asks: Is it possible to put Linea weatherboards over brick cladding? We are looking at buying a house and I need to know if it can be done. If not can you give me a ball park idea of how much it might cost to reclad. It is a single story 3 bedroom house. Thanks Liz
The brick cladding most probably is just a veneer (single brick) and is not suitable to install Linea Weatherboard, unless it is a solid wall e.g. filled concrete block wall. You can discuss the installation of Linea weatherboard further with James Hardie on 0800 808 868.
sarah purdom asks: Hi I am looking at purchasing a small 2 bedroom unit in christchurch but would like to extend it by about 5 - 10m2 but want to know if this is possible to do before I purchase the property who do i need to talk to see if it can be done? Thank you for your help
Contact your local council and check with them to see if it can be done first. Then enlist the services of a designer or architect.
Mike W asks: How long will Fibrolite sheet cladding last? Our place is 50 years old - how can I tell when it will need replacing? Is Fibrolite a good quality product?
It is expected to last over 50 years. However, like all cladding products it depends on the maintenance e.g. coating and cleaning of the cladding done at regular intervals.
RAJ asks: Hi. I am thinking of extending my house to add an extra toilet batroom and a spa, approx less than 10 sq met. do i have get a plans done for this and apply for a building consent?
Yes you will. A consent is required for any extension and plumbing works. See your local council for more information.
Clarry Inwood asks: What would you recommend as the most suitable cladding to fix over existing rusticated weather board. Preferably low maintenance.
It is not that easy to fix another cladding over an existing weatherboard. We recommend you need to discuss this with a builder/designer who can come and do a site inspection.
Ida Mah asks: We are renovating our 1960's house and have removed the ugly tacked-on front door area because we have installed a new stacker door, that leads to the deck, next to it. We now encounter 2 problems: 1. The new weatherboard size doesn't match the old. We don't have the funds to reclad the whole wall/ house. The weatherboards in the rest of the house are in good condition. 2.There's also an area above the old front door which has vertical boards. How can we make this area, which is the first area visitors see when they walk up to the house, look modern and tidy. We are gutting the lounge and kitchen and dining to make an open plan area.
For your first issue, the only option would be reclad the wall or to create a join in the weatherboards to enable you to only reclad a portion. You would still however notice the difference in weatherboard widths. If you wish to replace the vertical boards, try using Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.
Kyle beetham asks: I heard that Linea Weatherboard is failing by absorbing water where it is drilled for the nail holes is this true?
Rest assured that you can't go wrong by selecting Linea Weatherboard cladding used on your house. It's supported by a product warranty of 25 years which no other company does in the market.
Paul van den Berg asks: I want to put a clearlite roof over the deck. Angled back down to use the house gutter. How do I attach the new roof bearers to the barge board and get the new roof to flow into the existing gutter?
It is easy, you can fix the roof bearers to ends of roof rafters of the existing roof.
Stephanie Graham asks: We have an architecturally designed 1950's house and need to replace the louvre windows - we need some with silver coloured working bits as opposed to black. It would be great if someone knows how to source these as my research on the internet has proved fruitless so far. Thanks for your time.
Have you tried www.louvretec.co.nz?
Kam Kamath asks: We have a early 80s brick & tile house with million dollar sea views. We plan on retrofitting this house into a modern house. Don't know where to start.
Firstly, take a look at our Getting Started section of this website. Start collecting ideas you like from magazines. You can talk to builders to get ideas. Smith and Sons are renovation experts and do free quotes. Click on Get a Quote on this website and we can get someone out to you to help.
Desiree De Courcy asks: Hi. I have just discovered your website which looks great as we are about to start renovating our bungalow. We have an idea of the design we want to achieve but are not sure if we need an architect or if we only need an architectural designer. My question is do you have any architects or architectural designers that you would recommend in Auckland for a traditional bungalow? Thanks
We would recommend contacting NZIA or ADNZ. For an explaination of these organisations visit Getting Started section of this website.
Annette Basel asks: Hi, We've bought an old 60's brick and tile and I'm wanting to know how I can modernise the outside, it looks really dated. The brick is the red brick with dark grout. Many thanks Annette
That's a tough one. You could always contact your local Master Painter and see if you can paint over the brick. Depending on your budget, you could always look at a re-clad.
Alison Dackers asks: Hi there, the bottom level of our house is clad in some sort of fibrolite sheeting. The upper level is clad in cedar rusticated weatherboards. We would like to replace the cladding of the lower level with the same cedar weatherboards. Do we require consent to carry out this work? Thanks, Alison.
Yes, all cladding work requires a consent.
Karena asks: Hi. I have a house clad in old James Hardie weatherboard. They are the 300mm profile. Unfortunately they are of the 'biscuit board' type and most of them are rotten. Linea does not come in this profile so I am faced with a complete re-clad which I can not afford. Are there any cheaper (but still recommended) options for re-cladding a single level basic L shape dwelling? Thanks for your help
Of course. You could try James Hardie Smooth Weatherboard which is a more economical option and comes in a 305mm wide width. The other option is to opt for a sheet product that is quicker to installation like Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.
C Dixon asks: Our house currently has a corrugated compressed cement sheet roof which is very old. We are looking to replace this with a coloursteel long run roof. Do we require consent for this?
There was a ruling regarding re-roofing that meant that you required a building consent unless you were replacing like with like. This has however been enforced differently across the country with differing interpretations from the Territorial Authorities. The best thing to do would be to contact your local council and ask them directly. As the cost of a building consent will not be priced into any reroof quotes, the liability should you proceed without one and be caught out, would rest solely with you. For more information contact Metalcraft Roofing.
siobhan o'donnell asks: Can you remove the hearth the fireplace from the chimney without it falling down? (the chimney)
It is not possible to answer this question without actually looking at the job. We recommend getting a professional around to take a look at the job. You can contact Smith and Sons on 0800 764842.
dave carmody asks: If a house is so low to the ground that you cannot get under it and it needs to be repiled, (some part appear to be siting on rock!) will the house need to be lifted, if so how much approx will it cost? The house is 110m2
Have a look at this website www.repile.co.nz - they will be able to help you.
Craig asks: We are in the process of buying a house clad in Hardiplank, it was built in 1993. Can you advise if there is anything we would need to check or should look out for based on the age of the home? Is Hardiplank prone to leaking or dampness problems? Does the Hardiplank used in 1993 contain asbestos?
Check that the product has been installed as per the installation manual of that time. This can be obtained by phoning 0800 808868. It does not contain asbestos.
Raj asks: Some of my windows in my house have buckled a bit and I want to doubleglaze all the windows. Do I have to replace the whole windows and frames to do this or can I replace only the window with an aluminium window or get someone to fix the buckled windows and double glaze them? Need a cheaper alternative.
Contact 0508 800 755 to be connected to your local Nulook Licensee. It will require a site visit to asertain how bad the current windows are and what steps can be taken to fix the problem. With all joinery, steps can be taken to retrofit double glazing but you first need to asertain how bad the problem is with your current joinery, and this will require a tradesman comming out and having a look.
Roni Martin asks: I am trying to work out a colour scheme for my new build house. How do I do this without employing the services of an expensive interior designer?
Try a Dulux Colour Consultant. They're a cost effective option. Book one here.
Levi Freeborn asks: What sort of permit design do i need to re-purlin and re-roof a house?
A permit may be required if you are changing the type of roof. For example Longrun to Tile, however this can vary from council to council depending on their interpretation. With regards to purlin replacement it would depend upon the amount of purlins replaced. It's always better to contact your local council due to some of the interpretation discrepancies before you start.
Amanda Mackenzie asks: We have a backyard surface which is all orange/terrocotta coloured tiles. This is very ugly and we want to know if we can change the colour of the tiles? Alos can we lay other tiles directly over these or build a deck over these?
Gnerally speaking you can't recolour tiles. Building a deck over the top of them is an option.
Micaela asks: I would like to extend our new home by adding an area that would be around 6m by 2m. this would be 2 more rooms. Any ideas how much this might cost us for the consents? We are part of Manukau city Council.
Visit your local council website for this information. Click here for costs for Manukau City Council.
Lindi Colby asks: We are looking at alterations/additions to our home and/or putting a cottage on the property. However we need to look at the pros and cons in terms of costs and one of the main factors is the average building cost per square metre when building. I know this is a bit vague but I need a starting point.
The cost of any hosue depends on the specification of the house. the average cost varies between $1300-1500/m2.
Vik asks: I have a fibrolite cladding walls and would like to know if I need to add prima whilst painting the exterior or can I just paint directly with the paint? Do I need to sand it before painting? Can I use wet and forget and wash the wall with a telecopic brush as maintenance and how often I need to do this?
You should not need to sand the wall. It is better to prime the wall first and then give it a minimum two coats of paint. For washing down you can use a soap stick and telescopic brush.
Pamela.kirk asks: Can Axon be painted or does it come in a range of colours?
Axon Panel from James Hardie is not pre-finished. However, it is manufactured using CLD technology and can be painted any colour of the spectrum, even black!
Carolyn Senior asks: We have fibrolite cladding on front of studio. The front door has no cover to stop driving rain what could we do about this. Any suggestion would be a help.
You can put a small awning or a projection to deflect the water away
John asks: I want to build a lean to roof over my deck and just want to see some drawings/designs for the build eg. fixing bearer to outside of house and runnning rafters out etc? Where can I see some accepted drawings of this or even step by step guide? Many thanks
There are no generic drawings for this type of situation. You would need to get an architect or designer to create drawings specifically for your application.
Jim asks: We are looking at a house that is built out of Fibrolite? What should we be looking out for with this type of cladding? Also the estate agent has said it is weatherboard with plaster over the top? How can we check?
The main thing is the cladding must be installed as per its installation manual. The weatherboards are not plastered. So you should get in touch with a builder who has experience of claddings.
Stephen asks: The building paper in our roof cavity is ripped and sagging in places causing dripping from condensation. Is it possible to replace the building paper?
It is not easy to replace the building paper without replacing the roofing.
