Rachel Clapham asks: I have a claw foot skipper bath that has to be in a certain position in the bath room to fit. This means that the wall mounted individual taps are not long enough to quite reach in the bath. I was wondering if you knew of any individual taps with a 190mm + reach or tap and mixer connected that can be cranked out to 260mm
Hoping you can help me out.
Kind regards. Rachel
Hi Rachel Anything to a degree is possible, though this is a very unusual layout. It would be best to contact a bathroom distributor such as Heirloom (largest known distributor in NZ), Plumbline and Better Bathrooms, all of which can be found on-line… An open mind will be key.. I did note last year at the NZ Build expo new design in commercial kitchen taps etc… that had an extremely long reach. Also taps with extra reach are also recognized in hospitals, so maybe you would need to look or query on a commercial rather than residential level also, broadening the scope at bathroom/kitchen manufacturers/distributors because some of these would not usually be ‘offered’ publically in general because most are considered for commercial use/look… and not necessarily attractive. Regards The James Hardie TEam
Phil asks: how do i prepare the gib after removing an old shower liner to replace with a new one? The gib is cover paper is ripped all over.
Hi Phil Unfortunately if the cover paper is that degraded you would need to replace the Gib board, for further confirmation contact Winstone Wallboards Limited 0800 100 442, requesting a Technical Rep such as Dale Mercer… Regards The James Hardie Team
Teresa Richardson asks: we are currently in the process of removing wall tiles in the bathroom and have a problem with the tiles adjacent to the floor. As we remove them it is damaging the waterproof membrane. we have tried using a hot gun but this is not successful. What can we do to preserve the membrane ? we dont want to take up the floor tiles as they are still in good condition
Hi Teresa This would depend on what and who’s type of waterproofing product you have, the wisest advice would be to contact the waterproofing manufacturer direct or a waterproofing manufacturer giving as much information as possible (photos are helpful) in order for them to discern what type you may have as a heat gun may not be the correct tool to use i.e. by using a heat gun, in weakening what you do want to remove you will also weaken that which is closest to said proximity. It would be better to know the name/type of your particular waterproofing membrane. There are liquid, flexible and rigid membranes in the market.. A couple of waterproofing manufacturers: Ardex NZ Ltd Flexco (NZ) Ltd Waterproofing Systems Ltd Protective Surfaces Ltd ASA Waterproofing Membranes from Bostik Regards The James Hardie Team
Noel Jr. Azarcon asks: Can you use Hardieflex or cement boards as bathroom partition? Thanks.
Hi Noel If you are wanting a prefinished product to stick to the wall then HardieGlaze Lining or Horizon Lining installed as per their installation manuals is the best way to go. Regards The James Hardie Team
val watson asks: Is there anyone in NZ that sell ceiling blinds. I desperately need some for my conservatory as the heat from the sun is unbearable
Hi Val I would suggest that you have a look at purchasing louvers. The best place to start is with a hardware store like a Placemakers or Mitre 10, or even someone like Freedom. Regards The James Hardie Team
Diane Kelly asks: I have a 5ft by 3.5 foot shower enclosure. I want to put in a seat and an angled door. I was planning yo put the seat and angled door at the same end of the shower
Hi Diane When you say an angled door, without viewing this, it can be a broad statement. Otherwise it would also depend on how you would support the seat at the end i.e. independent foot/leg support. The James Hardie Team
Kirsten asks: Hi there, we have recently bought a 1960's lockwood home. We are wanting to change the bathroom, either by preparing and painting over the wood with an appropriate wet area paint, gibbing over the wood or stripping the lining off and gibbing, I have heard there are concerns about he movement in lockwoods causing gib joins to crack, what would you suggest? Thanks
Hi Kirsten I would suggest you discuss this further with Gib. Alternatively I would suggest you use a James Hardie prefinished product like Horizon Lining or HardieGlaze Lining with mouldings. Regards The James Hardie Team
M.Phelan asks: Thanks for your reply to contact C.J.Energy re replacement Caroma toilet cistern covers. Only C.J.Energy I can find is in NZ. Do you have an Australian dealer?
Hi M.Phelan Sorry I am only able to provide contact for New Zealand dealers. Regards The James Hardie Team
MIchael Kemsley asks: Hi there,
We are looking at purchasing a property with plans to convert two small bedrooms into a master bedroom, and ensuite. How easy is it to retro fit an ensuite (toilet shower, vanity) on an existing house with a concrete slab floor, do we need to rais the sower etc, to avoid unnecessary costs? What else should we consider
Regards
Michael
Hi Michael The first thing is to see the council about adding a bathroom. You need to draw drawings and then speak to a builder about setting the levels of the shower. Regards The James Hardie Team
Richard asks: Is there a building code requirement in NZ to have two or more closable doors between a kitchen area and a toilet? Thanks
Hi Richard Please refer to G1 clause of the NZBC. There is definitely a requirement of maintaining hygiene in the food preparation area and a a door required between the toilet. The James Hardie Team
Tristan asks: Hi I am renovating my bathroom and would like to know where i can get someone to make a custom wooden slat shower base to go over a steel tray? Thanks
Hi Tristan Unless you are prepared to pay for the actual carpentry craft and trade knowledge, taking into consideration the choice of a correct product i.e. Teak as an example, fixings and sealing for the environment etc… and longevity of life, sometimes it may be better to buy in. I have posted a couple of websites with an attractive selection below, or you would need to contact a carpenter versus a builder… http://www.impressionsindecor.com/us/tsm.htm http://www.maaxcollection.com/CreativeContent/CreativeContent.aspx?cCId=158&tCC=5&lang=En Regards The James Hardie Team
Viv asks: The bathroom (shower and vanity) is in the middle of our our 1920s house, i.e. not against any external walls. The toilet is located in the laundry on an external wall. We are looking at renovating the bathroom to make into a family bathroom and are wondering if it is possble to have the toilet in a room that doesnt have an external wall? The bathroom is right in the middle of the house, so the pipes would need to go either under a bedroom or under the kitchen. Would this be possible? I have never seen a bathroom located in the middle of a house like this before.
Hi Viv It is best to discuss this with a licensed plumber as venting and pipe locations need to be considered. However, anything to a degree is possible, though this is a very unusual layout, the toilet can be relocated to the centre room but it would ideally depend on whether you could source a freestanding style of toilet ,otherwise you would be looking at a form of backing pending the style of toilet chosen, such as a backing in the form of a ‘false' cabinet or incorporated into a cabinet/bench, thinking outside of the square, it will come down to creativity/design. The plumbing can be re-located, but the closer a down pipe is to an exist the better chance of flow and alleviation of blockage… a few bathroom distributors with a selection of toilets are Heirloom (largest known distributor in NZ), Plumb line and Better Bathrooms, all of which can be found on-line… Creativity and imagination will be key in this lay-out.. Regards The James Hardie Team
Chrissy Young asks: Hi,
we are currently extending our 120 year old cottage. The new laundry and bathroom will be tiled. do we have to use a membrane under the tiles or can we use fibrolite?
Hi Chrissy You need to waterproof as per minimum requirements E3 of New Zealand Building Code. Regards The James Hardie Team
PETE asks: The upstairs toilet area has not got a compressed sheet under the tiled area. This obviously needs to be replaced. can you give me a rough estimate of costs to fix this problem
Hi Pete This depends as prices vary by location. The best thing you can do is approach your local merchant and they will be able to to give you an accurate price. Regards The James Hardie Team
Trudy asks: Hi, I am planning an upgrade of my bathroom. I would like to replace my current basin and taps for a new one and mixer. If I use the existing hot and cold pipes in their original location, do I have to use a plumber or am I allowed to do this myself?
Hi Trudy May I recommend you get in touch with a plumbing agent or even the council for this question. The James Hardie Team
Michele asks: Hi, we are part way through redecorating/renovating our bathroom. We removed the old shower liner as the mixer and rose were of the too high up variety and we are replacing it with a lower version so that the kids can reach. I stripped the old wallpaper and have been busy sealing and painting the walls. I have sealed the wall behind the old shower liner and my husband has just now read in the instructions that came with the new liner that you can't fix the liner to a previously painted or selaed wall. SO...my question is, what should we do? Cheers :-)
Hi Michele I would suggest that you alk to the manufacturer of liner. They may be able to buff the surface. The James Hardie Team
Katey asks: Hi,
I currently have a hot water cylinder in behind the toilet in my house taking up a lot of empty space. I am renovating my bathroom and would like space to be used a shower. I am contemplating putting the hot water cylinder outside. What are your thoughts on this? Would this be more beneficial rather than the added cost of putting this up in the roof and do you think it would put people off having a hot water cylinder outside?
Thanks!
Hi Katey. You needs to speak with a plumbing manufacturer. There are external water cylinders but the choice depends on the aesthetic and pricing discretion. The James Hardie Team
Wendy asks: Hi,
I have purchased an older house with a toilet located at the back in the laundry area so am wondering if i were to get one put into the exsisting bathroom area, would this involve new pipes or could it hook into the exsisting vanity and shower piping.
Toilet piping cannot connect directly into pipes to the shower and vanity for sanitary reasons. You will need to show a copy of the "as built" (existing) plumbing and drainage to a qualified plumber/drainlayer and you will need consent from your local council to undertake this work to make sure it is all compliant. If there is no Code Compliance Certificate for the old house you have purchased you can get a "safe and sanitary" inspection done by council.
jane stevens asks: I have a small dark bathroom facing south - can you suggest the best skylight/ solar tube that would suit my renovation? I would like to install one in a dark bedroom as well. I am not concerned about seeing the sky - just getting some natural light in there. cheers
You will need to have someone come to your home to look at the configuration of the roof trusses etc, some solartubes can go straight up, others can be angled to suit but they are designed to reflect the light down the tube so a direct line "to the sky' is not necessary for an effective source of natural light. Contact our Drawing Board partners Homeplus, for a store close to you as they supply and install and will call to site to quote the job. http://www.homeplus.co.nz/our-stores/ Hi Jane I have been misinformed sorry. It is Hometech who sell and install solartubes. http://www.hometech.co.nz/
Hollie tang wilkinson asks: Hey
We're based in Franz Josef Glacier, west coast South island and would like to renovate our old bathroom.
1. do you guys work rurally?
2. It's putting in a bath with shower screen, toilet and new vanity.
The existing bathroom got a big bath, separate showerbox and a vanity...no toilet.
My husband can help ripping things out....get it ready for you guys to come in and install....our budget is not big....around 10k total cost.
Can you help?
Regards
Hollie
We do not have a list of nationwide contractors who specialise in bathroom renovations, however if you contact your local plumbing merchant they should be able to put you in contact with a plumber in your area and you will need a builder to undertake the carpentry aspects plus an electrician and probably a tiler. The builder may project manage the whole job for you. Before you start taking out the old bathroom fixtures talk to the builder/plumber first. The sanitary drainage will change as you are adding a new toilet in a different location. For fixtures and fittings visit our Drawing Board partners www.clearlite.co.nz and www.methven.co.nz
Ian Dick asks: Hi, i'm wondering how expensive it is, to move my toilet, about 1 metre. Right now it sits in front of the window,poor neighbours.
Not ideal, no! If the floor is timber then it will be easy, if concrete and the pan goes into the floor the concrete will need to be cut so pipes can be moved. (It will depend whether the pan is a P type or S and goes down into the floor or through the exterior wall maybe no concrete cutting will be required) Talk to a plumber they will be able to give you a quote. (Assuming no interior walls need to be moved to make room for the move?) There will be some minor touch up work where the cistern is moved and the floor coverings (tiles/vinyl?) will been to be reinstated.
Roimata Kimitaunga asks: Hi I'm considering adding on 3 bedrooms a laundry and 2 ensuites.
My question is what is the step by step process from start to finish.
You are best to first contact a designer so that you can get some clear plans worked out, as you need to consider building regulations such as distance to boundaries, site coverage, drainage etc. The designer will also need to take into consideration your existing dwelling and other elements such as structural requirements and your personal preferences. Then you have something " drawn up" for your builder to work from regarding pricing. Check out our Drawing Board partners Clearlite for plumbing fixtures and fittings, Methven for tapware, and Pink Batts for insulation. You will need to obtain a building consent from your local council. Once you have your plans and ideas down on paper with the necessary building elements, we can assist with information regarding qualified builders in your area who specialise in renovation work. From the team at The Drawing Board
Suman TePuni asks: Renovating; is it possible to retain the tongue in groove floor as well as the native skirting boards in a bathroom and still be guarded against mould and rot etc, or would I need to put down a vinyl floor and remove the skirting and replace with hardi board etc? Ultimately I would like to retain the native look.
It is possible to have timber flooring in "wet areas", it needs to be prepared/ treated/coated correctly to protect against moisture damage and mould. If you contact someone from our Drawing Board partner Dulux they will be able to advise you.
jane stevens asks: I plan a shower/bath scenario - so you know of any baths that have a good standing area and don't have the tiling lip all the way around?
cheers
Hi Jane Do you mean a bath over shower situation? You need to look for a bath that has flatter base (for standing more safely on) Not sure why you dont want the lip around the edge as you will need to have some sort of screen around the bath, either tiles up the wal, glass panels on the walll or an acrylic liner and in these cases the "'screen" needs to overlap the rim of the bath for waterproofing. HomePlus one of our partners have a range of bath/shower screens, and I would suggest that you visit any Plumbing Merchant to see their range of baths suitable for shower over bath applications. Regards Lynda
sarah Strachan asks: I am currently renovating our very 1970's bathroom and trying to modernise it on a very small budget. I would like to know about painting out wood pannelling? We have diagonal pine wood pannelling on the whole of the back wall and I would like to paint it out an egg shell blue colour. Do I need to prime it first and if so how?
The other thing I am interested in is do you know about buying baths and the frames from one source? Is it better to get a builder to build the frame to your house or is a ready made frame as good as any?
thanks Sarah
Please contact our Drawing Board partner Dulux regarding the preparation of timber prior to painting as requirements can vary. Baths that are supplied with ready made cradles are an excellent choice as they are generally very cost effective rather than being made on site, however you may need to make adjustments to suit the dimensions of your existing bathroom. Talk to the builder first.
Paula asks: Hi, we have a small bathroom with a bath and seperate shower. We would like to remove the bath completely but a builder friend has said this can lower the value of our house if we ever want to sell, is this true?
This is really a question that you should direct to a propery valuer. But in our experiance it may not change the value of the property but might change the buying appeal. Some people particularly families with small children will look for a home with a bath.
Barry Sergent asks: Can I use Villaboard as a shower lining untiled but painted with appropriate paints to give me the finish I require.
This is not recommended. When working with Villaboard in a wet area it is recommended to waterproof the area and cover in tiles or other water resistant linings. Paints can not be relied upon to achieve water tightness. A good alternative are the new HardieGlaze Tile Linings in Listello or Grande, they are very stylish, water resistant and may give the look you require.
Paul asks: I have a plastered ceiling in our bathroom. Over the years I have painted the ceiling but over time it is peeling and needs some work.Is there a better surface I can replace with that is easy care? Do I have to remove the existing ceiling or can I install directly over it? Any ideas would be helpful.
James Hardie has a number of products that will work in your situation. All the options will require you to remove the original ceiling lining. All of these options are made from fibre cement so are very hard wearing, and resistant to moisture and rotting. They are all easy care as they are not susceptable to water damage like other products. The first option is Villaboard Lining, it is very similar in installation to GIB, plaster and paint are required. The second option is HardieGroove Lining , similar to Villaboard Lining but it has a tongue and groove look. Thirdly there is a pre-finished option, HardieGlaze Lining, this product doesn't need painting or plastering and can be installed relatively easily. HardieGlaze Lining comes in several different finishes - all in white for a classic look. HardieGlaze Lining is also a very hygenic product to use in your bathroom because it doesn't promote the growth of mould.
Kubi asks: I am on tank water with a pressure pump system. What is the best type of shower mixer and head to use.
Thanks for your help.
A pressure pump system indicates you have a mains pressure water installation which means that any mains or all pressure products are suitable for your home. Tank water imposes some limitations in terms of free floating debris – please make sure a filter is installed in your shower mixer to prevent blockages. Methven has a wide range of shower mixers to choose from using Thermostatic Shower Technology. As far as showerhead is concerned you have an option of slide shower or wall shower. Slide showers give you lots of flexibility with adjustable head height. Fixed wall showers are a common option in New Zealand and provide great coverage. In both cases we recommend Satinjet showers featuring Twin-jet technology – Methven’s award-winning water and energy saving solution.Click here to find out more about available Satinjet shower models.
Wayne Bell asks: I have a bathroom project I want to undertake for my elderly parents. Essentially I need to remove a bath tub and reline the whole bathroom, install a shower about 1000x1000. It is a bathroom with an ajoining toilet and would need to stay that way. My question is where to start really. Is it a major removing a bathtub and given the drain is at the opposite end of the room than the shower would be is that also a major?. Ta
Wayne
This is not a major if you employ professional help. Before you start tearing into the wall linings and ripping out baths it is best to consult a plumber in your area. You will need to employ one for the changes in the plumbing by law and they will be able to help with where to start and what needs to happen to move forward with your particular project.
Heleh Shand asks: We have very high pressure in our shower and water has soaked through the shower cubicle and under the vinyl flooring soaking the woodflooring and swelling the chipboard in the vanity.What type of shower do you recomend we istall as we will have to competly redo the room!We have had a young couple curently using the room and theydidnt notice that the floor was soft,Help please.
Your options are an all- in-one floor and wall acrylic insert, a shower base and the use of a pre-finished lining such as HardieGlaze Lining or Horizon Lining or to tile the walls and the floors using a qualified tiler. Either way you should ensure that you have an adequate waterproof membrane on the bare walls and floor before starting with any tiling or placing any inserts into the shower cavity. This can be applied by a water proofing expert or a qualified tiler. You should also reduce your risk of water damage to other areas such as your vanity by including a glass door to your shower rather than a curtain so that splash is reduce significantly.
Andy asks: Have just moved from aus. and would like to know if planning consent or permission is needed to add an en-suite shower to a bedroom and does a registered plummer have to all or some of the installation.???
Cheers
Yes to both queries, for any plumbing work such as this you must consult your local authority and have a qualified plumber undertake the work.
Michele asks: Our Golden Homes built house is 10 years old. The Caroma plastic toilet cisterns and seats have degraded over time and the cost to replace with the same cistern and seat is more than buying a complete new ceramic cistern suite of better quality. I would like to replace the whole toilet suite and looking at it, it seems a simple job. I am aware of the requirements of the set-out of the existing toilet waste and have already identified a replacement toilet that will fit (thanks to Caroma's tool on their website). However, I was wondering if there are building regulations that mean I must use a plumber for this, or am I allowed to do it myself? Thanks for your time.
By law, all but the most basic of plumbing and drainage has to be done by a registered tradesperson. In order to replace your toilet pan and cistern you must have a registered tradesperson do the job.
Katey Martin asks: Hi,
Ive just purchased my first property and one thing I will do is my bathroom. The house is a bungalow, with the kitchen and separate bathroom with brand new darker wooden floors. I would like to add some modern touches to the house, both in the kitchen and a completely brand new bathroom. My intital plans were to go with the wooden floors throughout the house, but i would like to go with a darker vanity, so im thinking this wont really fit. The bathroom is smaller, so i may have to stick with a shower with vanity and possibly some set of storage cupboards, trending hanging off the wall.
Im just not sure which idea is best, to go with the wooden floors and white vanity or darker vanity and maybe a light colour of tiles on the floor and standard wall. Im also wondering how long on average would a renovation of a bathroom would take.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Katey
There are a few factors that need to be taken into consideration. Firstly it depends on what you want to spend on your bathroom, obviously keeping the wooden floor in the bathroom would be the most cost effective. However it also depends on how much work you will do to the bathroom. If for instance you pull out vanities baths/Showers and move their position you may find that you ruin the floor anyway, in which case you could then go to tiles or replace the boards you ruined to achieve your new bathroom layout. The second factor is what you want to achieve in terms of the use of your bathroom, obviously if you are planning to do some form of walk in shower or you are the kind of person that moves a lot of water around in the room (splash), the better flooring choice is tiles. In terms of the look, if you can get a dark vanity that will suit the wooden floors and you keep your walls light this will achieve a nice modern look, but again it all depends on the factors above. Equally though a white vanity with dark wooden floors looks fantastic and it will open the room up and give it a larger feel.
Peter asks: what is better for lining your bathroom walls & shower. Gib Aqualine or horizon wall lining?
cheers
I would use HardieGlaze Lining or Horizon Lining as the lining for bathroom walls and showers for a pre-finished look, there are 2 new comtemporary tile designs just launched for the HardieGlaze. Both are easy to install and accessories such as jointers are readily available. If you are after a paint finish I would reccomend James Hardie Villaboard as the wall lining, it has great wet area properties.
eddie asks: is there a shower base that will replace a bath? i have a bath 750mmx1690mm walled on three sides that i want to remove and replace with an acrylic base does anyone make this in new zealand? or is tiling the only option
The size you have specified is not one that is sold as standard, and I am unsure if there are suppliers in New Zealand that would produce custom sizes such as this, I would suggest contacting Plumbing world, however it is unlikely that this size is available. If you do choose to go down the track of a tiled application, glass shower doors are a way to complete the unit. Clearlite bathroom’s Trombone door is a shower door unit that is designed for this type of application and is available in a wide range of sizes to suit.
Mary asks: Is there any think I can spray or put on the bottom of my tub to make it nonslip. It is porcline tub and it is in good shape so just want something to grip the feet so we won't fall. I don't like bath mates and don'e want to use those self stick things again Thank you for your time.mjdereamer@cox.net
You could try Dy-Mark anti-slip non slip clear aerosol spray which is available for Marine outlets such as Smart Marine. Also there is a range of products from No Skidding.com
Megan asks: We are renovating our bathroom. We were wanting to tile the bathroom but have been told that as the walls are quite a bit from square and slightly warped that the tiles will be difficult to lay and may not hold. We are looking for a hard wearing finish as the house will eventually be tennanted. Are there any linings (james hardy?) that could be attached in sheets on top of the existing walls or are we really looking at relining the walls to get the finish we want?
Thanks for your help
Megan
There are a couple of options for you. Both of these linings are pre-finished and can go over existing linings. They are hardwaring, easy to clean, resitant to damage from moisture, won't support mould growth and because they're pre-finished they're cost effective as well. Horizon Lining HardieGlaze Lining If you really wanted to tiile, Villaboard Lining provides a solid substrate for tiling.
Mel asks: Hi, I'm about to tidy up my bathroom and want to replace the walls in the shower and then tile them. I'm trying to find out what I need to line the walls with and do i need to then put a waterproofer over the top before I tile the walls ?
Your best option is to line your walls using James Hardie Villaboard Lining. This is a most stable substrate for tiling. If you are tiling in the shower then you must use a waterproofing membrane over Villaboard Lining. The other options for your wet areas, is Horizon Lining. This sheet is pre-finished (so no need for painting or tiling saving you time and money) and it can also be fixed direct to stud. In this case you do not need a waterproofing membrane.
Gavin asks: How do I remove the faceplate on a MetHven satinjet showerhead, so that I can clear blocked nozzles?
The face plate simply pops off when unscrewed 10 degrees anti-clockwise.
Im about to renovate my bathroom. I am intending on replacing the floorboards with treated ply 17mm, then applying a waterproofing membrane, then tile and slate underlay with a heated hotwire on top before tiling. Have I got this in the right order?
This is the order: Ply, heated hotwire, tile and slate underlay, waterproofing and then the tiles.
Hi, We are building a new house and currently the upstairs bathroom sits partially above the master bedroom. Is this a terrible idea in terms of noise? Also, what are your thoughts on locating the hot water cupboard in the main bathroom - inadvisable? Useful? Doesn't matter? We quite like the idea, and it works really well in terms of available space, but we do have to consider resale. Thanks in advance!
It is better to avoid having a bathroom exactly over the bed room but if you can’t then talk to a designer and he can suggest ways to reduce noise. The water heater can be located in the bathroom cupboard.
Marie Jacobs asks: I am wanting to turn a small bedroom into an ensuite off the master bedroom. However, the existing floor is a 100mm concrete slab. What are my options in terms of showers? Do you know of any good raised shower tray systems/products to avoid cutting into the concrete, or will the floor have to be cut for waste anyway?
Although Homeplus do not supply raised shower trays, a builder can construct a raised base (approx 200mm high) and then you can use one of Homeplus’ Circa Shower Systems with side exit Easy Clean Waste.
jo ahern asks: As I am a tenant of an HNZ home, I wanted to know if there is some law/regulation that dictates the space required between a toilet and kitchen, I have searched the web and cannot find adequate information. The 1920's home I live in has two doors in very close proximity of each other (both external), one leads from an enclosed porch to the dining which then turns left into the kitchen/laundry and toilet areas. The kitchen was small and was opened up by creating an archway into the "seperate" laundry and toilet. When the old layout was intact this meant that one had to go out the dining door through the porch and into the laundry/toilet door which kept things nice and seperate, but not now, Yuck, what can i do to create a seperate area, and more so is there any health and safety info i can refer, or regulations i can refer to. Thanks Jo
Hi Jo Unfortunately we cannot answer this question for you. Please get in contact with HNZ on 0800 801 601.
Jo asks: Please help! We brought a house a few months ago that had been empty for a couple of months so leaky bathroom didn't show up on the building report. We have a shower over the bath. The hall carpet on the other side of this wall is wet about 40cm in diameter. From under the house the floor boards are wet, about a sqaure metre. We had a plumber look at it, he doesn't think that its a leaky pipe and advised us to apply sealant to the area, which we've done (we used it everywhere possible) but the carpet has come up wet again. My question is...what is the best thing to do now? Should we get another plumber in or maybe a builder to remove the wall to have a better look? We were thinking of re-arranging the bathroom eventually to put in a shower box but hadn't planned to do this for a couple of years as the bathroom is ok (except fot the leak!) as it is. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time, Jo
It is really important to find the source of the leak first. If that is left unattended the damage could increase if the leak is just patched up, resulting in more damage which would be more costly to rectify.
Shelley asks: I need something to put on the bathroom walls of our rental property, have had melamine suggested, is this a suitable material for bathroom walls instead of plaster and paint? Is it easy to install and moistureproof?
In a wet area application we recommend using fibre cement because of the moisture and mould resistance. James Hardie offer two pre-finished products that be fixed direct to stud and do not require painting. HardieGlaze Lining that comes in white or Horizon Lining that comes in eight different colours. They both have a polyurethane coating which is fully water resistant and they're quick and easy to install. For more information refer to www.jameshardie.co.nz
Hazel Meier asks: At present I have wallpaper on the walls in the Bathroom. I would like to know if Hardiglaze has joins (which I don't like). as I much prefer a straight wall. I had thought I would tile the walls.The ceiling and floor are fine. It's just the walls that need doing up.What would you suggest. Many thanks. Hazel
If you require flush finished walls, we recommend using Villaboard Lining from James Hardie which is water resistant and a very suitable substrate for tiling. For more information visit www.jameshardie.co.nz
Maureen Stewart asks: We have a 1800mm bath along one wall with a shub shower(alcove) at the end of it.The shower is 820 with a partitioning wall between them.It reaches about 2m up.The entire outside wall is 2800mm in length. I'm stuck because I don't know what type of shower to put in as everyone says keep the large bath.We want to replace the bath,shower and vanity.
If you wanted to keep the bath and shower, you could always go with the shower over bath package like the Henshaw's did in their bathroom project. The bath is 1800 + either a 2 sided or 3 sided liner depending on whether this package is going into a 2 sided situation or 3 sided alcove situation – check out the website www.athena.co.nz and look up the liquid bath 1800.
Stephanie asks: Help! I have an old and worn 50's bathroom with toilet which desperately need a total rebuild, especially now as there are signs of moisture damage. Is it possible to have a total rebuild for $10,000 with all inclusive? If yes, can you help me with some ideas and itemised quote? Thanking you in advance, Stephanie.
Yes it is possible. Bathrooms generally range from $10k - $20k but it is obvoiusly dependant on the size of the bathroom and on the fixtures and fittings you choose. As a first step you could get in touch with Smith and Sons on 0800 764842 for a quote. If you provide them with the floor area of your bathroom and a few more details they can give you a rough idea over the phone.
Nicky asks: Is it possible to paint over bathroom tiles? We have wall and floor tiles in the bathroom, and while they are still in good nick - the colour's out of date. If we can't paint them, is it a big job to have them all ripped out and replaced?
Unfortunately it is not possible to paint over glazed tiles…they are not porous and therefore the paint would not adhere for any length of time. However you may be able to re-tile over the existing tiles rather than removing entirely. Ideally it would be good to remove the existing tiles and replace. Until the extent of the job is known and how well the tiler has applied the tiles, it is really an unknown as to how big of a job this will be. It would be best to call your local Tile Warehouse and discuss these options with them.
Dave asks: I want to line a shower cubicle with hardiglaze. It is built into a pitched roof cavity which means I need to line the ceiling and 3 walls. The join between one wall and the ceiling is 45 degrees. Is there a suitable plastic jointer for this purpose? Thanks
Unfortunately James Hardie do not provide a 45 degree jointer. There is a plastics organisation that might be able to point you in the right direction. www.plastics.org.nz
Val and Malcolm Lucas asks: We have a tiny bathroom/toilet combined. want to remove the shub and put a shower in but it is too wide and will be left with a gap, can we line the walls and get a custom made shower base and don't know what to do about shower doors as the toilet is quite close??? Putting a new toilet in but don't want to relocate it. Already have new basin.
There are a few options available for this type of scenario; 1. An acrylic shower base custom made is not a practical solution as most bases are formed in a mould and then backed with fiberglass thus making a custom unit highly expensive to produce. 2. Often available is the stainless steel formed tray this can be made very cost effectively by many suppliers or most stainless steel sheet engineering shops. 3. There are now available many floor sealing products that can be used to create a tiled base ready to take a custom made shower unit. 4. There are many shower options that can be custom made for a site like this available from HomePlus outlets nationwide Our advice would be to contact a HomePlus store and get one of their people out to discuss the various options for shower units and also get their expertise as to what would be the best tray option for your site.
A Perkins asks: We are currently considering renovating our damp old 1950s bathroom and were keen to find out more...what sizes do the James Hardie Horizon Lining sheets come in, how much do they cost and who supplies them in Dunedin. Thanks
James Hardie Horizon lining comes in eight colours and in sheets 6mm thick x 1200mm wide x 2400 or 2700mm in length. See here for more details. Your local stockists in Dunedin are Mitre 10 Mega and PlaceMakers.
Mattie Ryan asks: Hi there, Can you let me know 2 things - what type of plasterboard should be used around baths and showers? Does this have to be used for the whole room or just that immediate area? I am thinking of putting in foil backed plasterboard in the room to stop condensation? Is this a good thing? I am thinking of using T&G timber for the ceiling instead of plasterboard. Any tips here? Cheers
The best product which doesn’t get affected with the moisture in wet areas is fibre cement lining like Villaboard Lining. This lining can be used in all areas but if you wish you can use plaster board in areas which are not wet. The condensation can be controlled by allowing ventilation in internal areas. Why not look at HRV home ventilation? This will benefit all areas of the home, not just the bathroom giving you a healthy, dry home. T&G timber in the ceiling can be used but you need to make is water resistant by applying varnish coats. Your other alternative is HardiGroove Lining which is also a fibre cement board. Click here for more information.
Margaret Smith asks: Hi We are renovating our bathroom and I am interested in featuring photographic tiles with photos I have taken at our nearby beach. Would you know where I could have photos printed onto ceramic tiles? Also, what would be the likely cost? Thank you. Margaret Smith
Try www.FrogPrints.co.nz. The cost will depend on the size of the tile.
Emmett Fanning asks: Hi Can you please tell the make and model of the shower door featured in your TV advert. can you also please tell we to source these. Regards Emmett
The door over the bath was by Home Plus. They custom make for your home and have stores nationwide.
Sarah Barnie asks: We've recently purchased a 30 year old cottage in Central Otago. We are now the proud owners of an old, very mouldy bathroom with no ventilation in fact there are no extractor fans anywhere in the house. Unfortunately renovations won’t be happening within the next 6 months however I’d like to at least install an extractor fan in the bathroom. We have high, exposed ceilings throughout the house. Can you recommend an extractor fan to use when there is no roof cavity to play with? Great website by the way!
We recommend that you get in touch with the team at HRV and NRG. They will be able to advise you of your options, with regards to an extractor fan for your bathroom.
Robin Wilkinson asks: Our shower room needs a renovation! The wall lining is past its use by date. Can't install ready made shower unit as we have a window in the exterior wall! The room is 900mm x 2400mm and is sited between separate toilet room and kitchen wall. We had thought that tiling the walls and floor and even replacing the window 600mm x 500mm with glass bricks would be the best way to renovate. (Saw your add in the December 'Your Home & Garden' mag.)
We recommend getting in touch with Smith and Sons who are renovation specialists. They can help with ideas and take the job through to completion. They'll even manage all the sub-trades for you. They can be contacted on 0800 764 842 or www.smithandsons.co.nz.
Iain asks: I need to paint a renovated bathroom and I've heard that it would be best to use oil based paint throughout. Is this still the case, or would waterbased paint be acceptable?
Oil based paints have been used in times gone by in wet areas to form a moisture barrier to protect substrates from water- but todays building materials for wet areas are made to be more moisture resistant. If you have renovated the whole bathroom using new building materials for wet areas you can use water based Dulux Acrylic Sealer Undercoat and top coat with water based Dulux Mouldsheild. If some older materials remain from the existing bathroom then it is best to apply Dulux Sealer Binder (oil based) Undercoat and top coat with water based Dulux Mouldsheild.
rachel coffin asks: Do you have any advice on renovating a bathroom so that is a wet area bathroom suitable for a person in a wheelchair. I still want my bathroom to look nice and not like a big room full of lino, like I have seen. Can you also give me an idea on the cost of doing a wet area bathroom. thank you
When your are building a bathroom for a wheel chair access, there are certain minimum access requirements under the NZ Building Code which you must comply with. You can still create a fabulous bathroom that is functional. Why not consider Villaboard Lining which offers excellent moisture and impact resistance to stay looking good over time. It's also a solid substrate for tiling. Contact Tile Warehouse and get try to get some slip resisant tiles instead of lino. The general rule of thumb is to allow at least $10,000 for a bathroom but obviously it depends on the size of your bathroom, the amount of demoliation and rebuild required and also the cost of the fixtures and fittings you choose.
Fiona Judson asks: Hi. I am looking at replacing bathroom shower linings (shower over bath) and stripping the wall back to bare to instal wall insulation. Is there a product that can go straight onto the wall studs that act as gib board and shower lining in one? If so how are these panels joined together, as I think there will be a join needed on the wall where the shower over bath is. Thanks.
There are two products suitable for this application. James Hardie Horizon Lining or HardiGlaze Lining. Both products are prefinished so there is no painting or tiling required and both can be direct fixed to stud. Jointers (PVC or aluminum) are available.
Jude Catley asks: In your bathroom renovation, what price were the laundry doors?
These came from HomePlus and were approximately $1,000. HomePlus come to your home to do a free measure and quote.
Heber Fruean asks: We have to fix a leaking shower seeping into the wall and upgrade the washroom. We have no idea how to start or what we are able to do design wise and the costing of such a job. What would you advise?
The most important thing is to fix the leak first of all. To do this you may have to remove the existing shower lining. As far replacing your lining is concerned you can use HardiGlaze Lining which is a pre-finished lining. It will pay to discuss this with a builder.
Peter Judge asks: 1. Which should be done first, tiles on floor or tiles on walls. 2. Can wall tiles be drilled for attaching accessories etc. If so, should this be done before or after they are glued to the wall? What type of drill-bit, and fast or slow drill speed?
Normally the floor is tiled first and then the walls. You drill after the tile adhesive has dried off. You use a masonry drill bit.
stephen asks: Can I paint over an existing shower unit?
No - generally speaking you cannot.
Anthony Curley asks: Can you advise me the best way to apply HardieGlaze Lining to my bathroom walls? At the moment they are plasterboard. Can I glue the HardieGlaze directly to this or should I remove it and glue directly to the wall studs. Please also recommend the right glue to use.
If the plasterboard is in good condition then you can glue the HardieGlaze Lining directly to it or otherwise you can remove the plasterboard and fix the HardieGlaze Lining directly to the studs. Use panel bond adhesive, no more nails etc. See here for the HardieGlaze Lining installation manual.
ANGELA HAIG asks: What is the building process that you recommend for putting in a new shower so that it never leaks especially in the shower tray area? The bathroom is on the second storey of my home and the flooring at present is particle board covered in lino. The lino will be removed and tiles will cover the floor and walls. All plumbing positions will stay in the same place for the new bath, vanity and shower areas. All the builders who have quoted for this job have very different ways of construction of the shower area.
The installation of shower trays, wall lining and the fittings etc. must be carried out by an experienced builder because a leak can deteriorate the wall lining or flooring to extent where the repairs can become very expensive matter to deal with. I suggest that you look at the Villaboard Lining Installation Manual for installing Villaboard to the wet area wall and tiling over. For flooring you can use 18mm HardiePanel Compressed Sheet and use a water proofing membrane over it before tiling. These materials installed as per their installation manual are covered under the standard warranty for 15 years.
Paula asks: I'm lookg for a user friendly basic programme to help visual tile layout on walls and floor of planned bathroom rennovation. Have chosen tiles and possible listello but trying to decide how to use it. Would like 3D view. Any other useful bathroom tile design resources? Thank you
We're not aware of any tile design resources. You can take a look at TV Showhomes which has ColourExplore and is easy to use.
Kathryn asks: We have just bought a 1960's weatherboard house with hardwood floors. We plan to turn one of the bedrooms into a bathroom. What would you recommend in regards to flooring? If we were to tile it how would you need to prepare the floor?
If you're wanting to tile your floor, take a look at HardiePanel Compressed Installation Manual or Tile and Slate Underlay Installation Manual for preparation advice.
Hayden Manson asks: I have a mid 80's home and may sharpen up the bathroom. The bathroom is on the bottom story of the house with a concert floor. Currently the shower and the bathroom are separate, but next to each other. I want to knock down the wall and make it one big bathroom with a shower (note: toilet is in a separate room next to shower). I don't plan to change the position of any piping, would replace shower and vanity. Also the concrete floor is cold, I was thinking heated tiles might be nice. Maybe some type of heater and an extraction fan. I am not a home handy man, so would get a professional in. What are the rules around knocking down walls? Do I need council consent? At a rough guess what would be the cost of work like this?
It's impossible to provide a quote without seeing the job as there are so many variables, the size of the bathroom, the quality of materials you choose etc... If the wall is a supporting wall you would require consent. We recommend getting in contact with Smith and Sons who are renovation specialists.
Sasha asks: Hi, can you give me a rough indication of how much a floor to ceiling glass shower 'screen' or 'wall' installed on new tiled walls & floor costs? It would roughly be 900mm wide, by 2300mm high (floor to ceiling), I have no idea how think it needs to be. Also I assume its possible to get this glass frosted, is that right?
For your question we got in touch with HomePlus who custom make screens. They say this size is too big to do as one door, therefore there are two ways they price this: 1. One wall hung door at 600mm and a side panel at 300mm for $1,461.40. 2. One side panel at 150mm, one door at 600mm and an end panel at 150mm for $1,502.93. This is the normal way to do it. This price is for frosted glass and includes installation, there may be a travel fee depending on where they are located. Get in touch with them on 0800 466375.
Trevor Black asks: Bathroom has been painted with oil based paint but gib has not been sealed properly.Paint is peeling off what is the best way to strip back to gib
This is a difficult question to answer without viewing the problem, our experience with poorly prepared wet areas is that it would be very difficult strip back to the plasterboard - if not impossible with out damaging the surface. If the bathroom is old wash down the surface with Selleys Sugar Soap -then sand the whole area with 120 Aluminium Oxide sandpaper to remove the unsound paint and take the gloss off the oil based paint - thoroughly dust the whole area. Then use Dulux Acrylic Sealer Undercoat on the bare and old painted areas - paint the whole bathroom. Then sand with 220 Aluminium oxide paper sandpaper. Then top coat with Dulux Mouldshield - this will give a smooth finish very much like the oil based and will be harder wearing than oil based.
Jeff asks: Can you help me select a suitable adhesive for James Hardie's Ezi-Grid Tile Underlay please. Substrate being existing T&G timber floor boards.
EziGrid Tile Underlay is no longer manufactured by James Hardie. They do supply another flooring product, Tile and Slate Underlay in two sizes. 1800 x 1200 and 1800 x 600. A solvent based adhesive like Max Bond, No More Nails, Sika 11 FC etc can be used. When fixing over solid timber like T&G using adhesive in conjunction with annular grooved nails is optional.
Phil Watson asks: What is the best way to lift ceramic tiles from concrete floor. thanks
Unfortunately there is no easy way. First of all take the grout out. Then it’s the chisel or a spade and a lot of hard work. Most of the tiles will break so don’t expect to be able to save them. If you’re putting tiles back down, you’ll need to grind back the concrete so you have a good surface for the next lot of tiles to adhere to.
kim silvey asks: I have recently (last week!) purchased a 1950's dwelling. I am now discovering its flaws, the first two big ones being the kitchen and bathroom.... I don't think I can handle either and am keen to start renovations. Should I get a local builder in to assess them and deliver the bad news or can I begin assessing the situation myself before I decide what needs addressing? (im no builder but i have some experience of renovating...) Any info/advice would be appreciated.
It is always a god idea to discuss the project with someone who works on these types of renovation projects on regular basis e.g. a builder, designers etc. Make a list of what you "need" and what you "want" and then discuss this list with a builder or designer. Once you have figured out your requirements and know what to do first, you can then get your renovation underway. The end finish will of course depend on your skill levels.
Marlene asks: We have a leaking cold water tap over our bath and want to change the washer. We have a header tank. My question is, do we have to climb into the ceiling to turn off header tank as well as at the mains? Dumb question , I guess but don't fancy climbing into the ceiling, really!
If the bath tap is connected to the header tank, than yes you will have to turn it off at the tank, it could be that the cold water to the cylinder is gravity fed so that will mean the hot water to all the outlets is possibly from the header tank, the cold water how ever could be mains supplied and this will have to be turned off at the street. The way to check if your hot water cylinder is gravity fed is to check under the hot water cylinder and if there are reducing valves under there then it is low pressure if there is not then it is gravity. Check the pressure at a hose tap on the outside and compare it to the bath tap it could be mains or equal low pressure.
Sarah Pipi asks: I really like the look of Linea Weatherboard but I currently have a timber weatherboard home. Can I use Linea Weatherboard for my extension?
Yes, of course. Linea Weatherboard is available in three widths to suit your renovation project - 135, 150 and 180mm. For more information visit www.jamesdhardie.co.nz
Todd asks: My neighbour has used Linea Weatherboard on their new home and have painted it black - it looks fantastic. I want to use it on my reclad but is painting it black okay?
Yes. You can paint Linea Weatherboard any colour of the spectrum - including black! See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.
C.F.Reed asks: I am planning an extension on to our lounge, with 12mm CD ply as cladding and bracing. I have NZS3604:1990, which tells me how to calculate the number of bracing units I require for walls, floor, and roof, but I am unable to find any method to determine how to achieve the required values, except for vertical walls, in Appendix K. How do I do it? Assume that I have a good grasp of practical mathematics.
BRANZ offer bracing calculation sheets which you can get by clicking here. Also make sure you are using the current version of NZS 3604 which is dated 1999.
Kylie Ward asks: Hi I live in Totara Heights in Manukau and am painting - I am looking for a color consultant to help choose paint colors and get a good opinion - can you recommend a good person thanks kylie
Hi Kylie, You can book a Dulux colour consultant here
emma williams asks: Hi, if a house has a brick exterior, can Linea Weatherboards be fixed to them to totally update the look, without ripping the building down!? Can you please supply and indication of cost PLM too.
The brick would need to be removed before Linea Weatherboard could be applied. Your local council would need to be consulted regarding the change of cladding and a simple risk score analysis undertaken. This will let you know if Linea Weatherboard can be direct fixed or needs to be applied over a cavity. The flashing details would need to be looked at by a designer to ensure weathertightness. For a quote for your re-clad contact Smith and Sons
Carol asks: I have recently purchased an old 1950s home with fibrolite exterior. Some of the panels are damaged and I would like to replace with different exterior. What are my options?
James Hardie offer a number of different style exterior claddings from weatherboard eg.Linea Weatherboard to flat sheets like Titan Facade Panel or HardieFlex Sheet. For more information visit www.jameshardie.co.nz
Carol asks: Are there any restrictions or rules regarding the removal of old building materials that may contain asbestos, other than wrapping the material in building plastic before disposing, and dampening the material before removal. I am also assuming that masks, and gloves are worn. Do I need to get a special contractor to do this work or can any builder do this as part of my renovation project?
It is always best to consult the Occupational Health and Safety Website for this information and check with local council where product can be taken too.
Gary Bint asks: Hi, We are looking into buying a old villa type house,the exterior cladding is old hardiplank and stucco, how can we modernise the look, can we install a weatherboard over the top?and what costs would we be looking at. Thanks
The cladding should be removed as it is difficult to install product over existing cladding due to flashing modifications and compliance. Find out the age of the cladding so that any handling concerns can be addressed. When the cladding is removed it is a good time to install insulation to help keep your home warm and dry.
Mary Williams asks: We own a summerhill stone house and have never really liked the look of the exterior. We are planning on doing some renovations soon and are wondering how we could change the look of the exterior of the house to make it look more modern
Recladding is a great way to to update the look of your home, however this could become very costly. If you are looking for something more cost effective then perhaps talk to a texture plasterer about rendering over the stone to modernise it.
prakash lal asks: I am planing an extension to our property in Takanini. Could you please recommend a competent builder Thanks
Smith and Sons are a nationwide franchise of builders. www.smithandsons.co.nz or freecall on 0800 764842.
Dan curios asks: Hi, what is the best solid plaster systems to use for a house exterior ? what is the average hourly rate for a builder in hamilton ? what is the average hourly rate for a draughtsmen in hamilton ? ( so i dont get ripped off on up coming work).
The only solid plaster system is that which complies with NZS 4251. Textured coatings must comply with EM4 of New Zealand Building Code. On average the cost per square meter is $80 - $100. If you want a smooth finish, then specialised angles etc.. will be required which will push this cost up. For accurate pricing, we recommend getting three quotes.
Phil asks: I wish to build on an extension to an existing bedroom. When calculating the glazing requirements for the extension does the existing bedroom dimensions for each wall (obivously without windows) allow me to increase the amount of glazing in each of the walls of the new extension? I wish to maximise the glazing in the extension to gain light, view and solar gain. Which guidance documents will explain this?
The document you are refering to is the H1 Compliance Document for New Zealand Building Code Energy Efficiency – Third Edition. This document can be viewed on the department of building and housing website www.dbh.govt.nz. Please view this document as there are a number of factors that contribute towards the thermal envelope of a building.
fillicia asks: Hi there We're currently live in a 2 bedroom house (crosslease) build in 1940. We're thinking about adding extra room on top. We went to city council for the house's info but they cant tell us anything re. the house because its build in 1940. My questions are what should we do next? if its an architect that we need do you have any suggestion? should we contact the architect first and do the budgeting later on or do budget first? many thanks for you help fillicia
The council most probably do not have any drawings or details of your property. If you're looking to extend you should get in touch with a designer or architect who will draw the plans for the whole house, with the new addition in it as well. The drawings of the existing house are required for the council records. The next step is to do your budget on the basis of how big the extension is.
Murray Stevenson asks: We are doing an extension and weighing up timber weatherboard v linea. We have heard some bad reports about linea weatherboard. Do we need to be wary of this new product?
Linea Weatherboard has been on the market for approximately 9 years. It has been tested by BRANZ (Building Research Association NZ) and complies with their requirements. It certainly offers benefits that competitor products don't, like a 90 minute fire resistance rating, 25 year warranty and they can be painted dark colours (even black) without the risk of warping and twisting. James Hardie also have a number of recognised installers nationwide. They are skilled in the application of fibre cement building products and have the correct tooling for best practice and speedy installation. They can be found at www.jameshardie.co.nz.
Charlene asks: I am looking to renovate the exterior of my home. Presently my home is clad in an old Hardies product designed to look like fake bricks, it's a fawny colour the bottom with larger panels on top. I am wondering if you still stock this product, or if you know where I might be able to get hold of some. Cheers :^
This product is no longer on the market. James Hardie do offer a number of other cladding options. Visit www.jameshardie.co.nz
Brian asks: Hi,we building a new deck and would like to put a waterproof cover on it,something other than butynol ? can you help?
There are many other types of waterproofing membranes available in the market. You can refer to Branz web site for more information. www.branz.org.nz
Michelle Collings asks: Hi we are putting up coving in a 15 year old house. Would appreciate any tips to make the process easier. Thanks
Installing coving is essentially a skilled job and we would recommend getting in the professionals. However some things to look out for are how to cut the cove to suit the internal or external corners. The cove must be cut face down at 45 degree cut. You should probably cut and join one or two corners using samll pieces on the floor beforehand to ensure that the angle and the cut is suitable for the corners. The main thing is there shouldn't be any gaps beteeen the joins. The coves can be screw fixed, nail fixed or glued.
Janne asks: Hi, I have a weatherboard home & I am wanting to lift my house up. I am wondering what the best option would be please? Would brick blocks or timber be the best base for this? Also can you give me an indication as to who would be the best people to contact to do this work please?
The quickest option to lift a house is to use the timber base. You can use weatherboards on the base to match the main cladding. You should contact the house moving companies for this and you can find their details in the yellow pages or talk to your builder.
PETER asks: Hi, We are in the process of deciding on claddings for a new build house. Can you suggest a suitable 2nd lightweight spray textured cladding that would work well with corrugated steel laid horizontally? Thanks
The only suitable options for lightweight cladding is Monotek Sheet from James Hardie or a stucco plaster system using HardieBacker Substrate. See www.jameshardie.co.nz for more information.
Corinne asks: I want to enclose my deck in order to add more room to my one bedroom unit. I would like to use something that will give me privacy from the neighbours but still lets in some light and warmth. What materials would you recommend I use.
You could use glass to keep the light coming through and wind out. Frosting over the glass will give you privacy. You'll need to check with your local council on any regulations you might need to meet.
Harry asks: Is it legal to build without a permit. I would like to add another two rooms to my home. I have previously tried to build a garage on my large basically empty block, but after spending $8,000 and another $4000 the council required me to spend also for illogical nonsense I pulled the plug on the project.
You must not undertake any construction activity without a building permit. There are huge penalties which can be imposed on you to build without a permit. All major building works do require a building consent as set out in the Building Act 2004. A building consent ensures what is being built is meets health and safety requirements and building code requirements. A code of compliance certificate can not be issued without it. You can view the act online at View the Act online (www.legislation.govt.nz) or Department of Building and Housing (www.dbh.govt.nz)
Dean Osborne asks: I have just brought a house built in 1975, with a deck and carport added in 1978 then a conservatory built over part of the deck in 1986 Parts of the conservatory floor are rotten which I do not see as too much of a problem to fix. The deck on the other hand may require a little bit of planing out The deck area is approximately 5250x3900 lined with fibulite with a so called waterproof rubber membrane on top The fibulite is cracked and broken in places and so needs replacing The deck is at the same level as the floor of the house and so there are signs of seepage into the floor of the house (when you are under the house looking up) Under the deck is the carport with concrete floor and lined walls, the ceiling & parts of the wall lining have long since rotted away because of the water leaking down from the deck All the water collecting in the carport pools up against the back wall & concrete floor At this stage I am thinking I can fix these problems by removing the fibulite, keep the existing treated wood joists, put down a product such as permadeck- the gaps in the deck will allow the water to drain down passed the joists, which should fix the problem of water seepage into the floor of house. On the underside of the deck (carport ceiling area) possibly putting up corrugated iron with some fall on it and spouting system to safely divert the water away from the carport floor Do you think this will work and do you have any other ideas? Cheers Dean
We would recommend replacing your existing fibrolite material with James Hardie HardiPanel Compressed sheet 18mm thick. Get this fully covered with a waterproofing membrane. The deck should be sloping to the exterior and the entire run off the deck can be collected in a guttering and disposed off to the ground. This will save you putting a corrugated roof under the deck. Make sure the joists are in good condition.
Brenda asks: Hello. I have a 1940's art deco house with a leaky rook. As I have already replaced the roof once- around 8 years ago, and that hasn't fixed the problems, I now blame the design of the flat roof with internal gutters. I did get Grey Skills in to see whether the leaks could be fixed, but the men who came to look at the problem said it wasn't possible to know if the problems could be fixed and how much it would cost. I just want a dry roof over my head. I am not too concerned at retaining the art deco character of the existing roof. If I have to put a traditional roof with peaks and eaves on in order to get rid of my problems with the roof leaking, I will. Could you tell me how I can get a dry house for the least disruption and cost. If I am putting on a new roof, I would probably want to have some attic like storage in the roof and insulation. Thank you, Brenda
In years gone by the minimum pitch for tray section roofing was 1 degree. That has in recent times been increased to 3 degrees. It sounds as though there is an inherent problem with the design. If it were a material issue then the reroofing project would have solved the problem. Without seeing the property we can’t tell you exactly but our initial reaction to your question is that you should do two things. 1. Increase the current pitch of your roof – the current low pitch could be resulting in ponding or pooling 2. If possible get rid of the internal gutter design and have the roof drain the water outside the line of the building. As an extra item to check, I assume your roof has a parapet wall. I would ensure that if any chase cuts have been made to the inside of the parapet they have been done and sealed correctly. I would also check that the parapet flashings have a fall on them so water can’t pond or pool on them. If the parapet is solely reliant on the caps for waterproofing at the top then it may be that a secondary barrier be installed under the existing caps. I would also check that when the roof was replaced they installed roofing paper under the roof. Any penetrations through the roof should be properly sealed around, this includes TV aerials and Sky dishes. Also ensure they used a breathable building paper and not a foil. As you can see there are many things that could be causing the leak problems you are experiencing. We recommend getting in touch with Metalcraft Roofing and get them to come and look at the roof and provide a professional opinion.
Grant Leach asks: Can Linea Board be placed over exisiting brick work?
If it is face brick then not, it can't. If it's concrete blocks filled with concrete then you can fix a batten over and then fix the Linea Weatherboard into it.
Georgina Mac Rae asks: I am closing up an external opening and would like to know what board I can use externally to attach to new studs. It will need to be weather proof for only about a year as we are planning a complete reclad within that time. The wall is west facing and doesnt get much weather. thank you
There are a number of different options available to you. For the most economical option we recommend using James Hardie HardiFlex Lining. The vertical and horizontal joints will need to be flashed. Have a look at the HardieFlex Lining Technical Specification for the details.
craig asks: Hello, looking at buying a house and am wanting to know the total cost of recladding a normal 3 bedroom house, an approximate is fine. thank you.
The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for re cladding. It would be easier to give a rough idea if the type of cladding to be used is known. To give you an idea Linea Weatherboard costs roughly $125.00/ m² for new construction.
Rowan Muir asks: Can Linea Weatherboard be used as cladding for an A frame style house roof and what would be the maximium angle recomended? Thanks, Rowan Muir
Linea Weatherboard can not be used as a roofing product. Visit NZ Steel for some suitable roofing options.
Jo Tidswell asks: We have recently brought a house and want to add another room, possibly convert the single garage into a room, or build a room under the house. How much money should we allow for this and what is the difference between an architect and a draughtsman
Without seeing the project it's difficult to give you a price. There are too many variables. Smith and Sons are renovation specialists and offer obligation free quotes. For the difference between an architect and draughtsman see our Getting Started section.
John Jamieson asks: How do I remove a strip of no more nails adhesive
The best option is to use turpentine.
mahsa shahrinia asks: Hi...we are looking at buying a 3 bedroom house that needs a full renovation. We dont want to overspend so, can you give us a broad range on costings per square metre...and/or costing for bathrooms/kitchens/decking etc. Thanks heaps!
That's a really hard question because there are so many variable. General rule is you allow $15-20k for a bathroom and a kitchen could be anywhere from $5 - 80k. It's totally dependant on the fixtures and fittings you go with. As for a deck, again it is dependent on the material you go with, the height etc... You could get a more specific quote from Smith and Sons. You can contact them at www.smithandsons.co.nz.
Frederik Kruger asks: I would like to know what would be the best option. We want to extend our house by either lifting it and building underneath or building on top of our double garage. The garage is fixedc to the house but about one metre lower than the house. the plan is to have two bedrooms, a lounge and dining area.
Generally, building over the top should be easier and more cost effective but we recommend getting in the professionals. You can try Smith and Sons or find an architect on the ADNZ website.
Gary asks: Hi I am extending my place and are trying to cut some costs. can you please tell me how I can re-calculate the H1 (Acceptable Solution) Clause or a reference to where I can find the formulas to do it? My builder asked the designer who drew the plans to see if we could remove or reduce the concrete slab insulation as that is a large cost for little affect for the whole house, His reply was no. So I am hoping to look into it myself as a piece of mind thing. Any advise or info would be great. The concrete slab insulation is recommended to be 200mm thick. Cheers Gary
Refer to NZS4218 standard for guidance.
jennifer jackson asks: Hi Team, I have purchased a 70's concrete block dwelling and it presently has worn brown decramastic tiles that I know are leaking and have many bare patches so a new roof is required. I want to use longrun corrugated iron but wonder if this will be out of place on a home of this era and want to use dark grey. Exterior collour is white but I would prefer something less stark. Thanks JJ
Long run will be fine in this application and is also available in dark grey. Take a look at these websites. MetalCraft Roofing and NZ Steel.
mark woodward asks: i am wantig to know about water proofing products on walking decks for outside over a living area. had a product applied called elastodeck 5000 by nuplex that failed, when to court got money back and now looking to replace/ repair with something else. area is approx 2.5m x 6m
There are many products available in the market which can be used for water proofing. Refer to Branz Appraisals website and check the products suitable for this application.
Gary Bester asks: I want to install a bathroom on a first floor, with treated ply subfloor. I want to install Tile and Slate underlay before tiling. I am told I need to have the installation done by a certified installer. I do all my own DIY. Where can I attend a course to become a certified installer? What products do I use to waterproof the floor before tiling? Thanks Gary
There isn't a requirement to become a certified installer to install Tile and Slate underlay. If you are a person with good understanding of basic building construction then you can install it yourself. Refer to its installation manual for further information. As far as water proofing is concerned you need to select a suitable material after talking to their manufacturers. Refer to BRANZ appraisals website for information on the water proofing membrane products available in the market.
Kim Senior asks: We have recently purchased a beach property which needs painting on the exterior. It was built in the 80's and has brown aluminium joinery. I want to paint the main colour in Onemana but I am not sure on a contrasting colour that will go with the brown joinery - any suggestions?
Why not try a Dulux Colour Consultant for some professional advice. You can book one here.
Judy Rolls asks: My son owns a house in Tauranga and the exterior is Hardiplank with plaster on it. Is there a standard specification that the Hardiplank is installed and is this signed off once completed and held by the Council for the Code of Compliance?
HardiPlank is never plastered. If it has been then the property may not have a code compliance because this is not complying with requirements. Check this with council, they can inform you whether there is a compliance certificate or not.
Terry McIntyre asks: Hi team. What options are available (from lowest cost to highest) in levelling floors in an old villa? The villa was built on ground which apparently has peat in sub-terrain (St Albans/Shirley area of christchurch) and suffers inward sloping towards fireplace hearths (west, between two bedrooms and east, between loung and dining). the sloping is quite significant, maybe about 15cm? The flooring is also bouncing/creaking in places where piles have sunken. Thanks
If it is possible to access the sub floor area then the floor joists can be jacked up. The other option is to use the leveling compounds and then fix a floor covering on the top e.g. tiles, vinyl, carpet etc.
Prashant Trivedy asks: I am currently building my own two storey home. The upper level exterior is going to be palliside weatherboard, and the bottom level Monier bricks. I am finding it extremely difficult to choose which colour of weatherboard to select and which bricks it would match. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
We would recommend using Linea Weatherboard from James Hardie in place of Palliside Weatherboard. This would allow you to paint the weatherboard any colour under the sun! With Linea Weatherboard you can also achieve up to a 90 minute fire resistance rating. Take a look at this fire test of timber vs vinyl vs fibre cement. Good luck!
Peter Christian asks: Re: architectural plans. Do you offer a service where we can get plans draughted either by an architectural or draughting firm...and if so who are they? Thanks Peter
We don't offer that service but we can point you in the right direction. ADNZ have a list of designers nationwide on their website. Click here. Also, Smith and Sons - renovation and extension specialists also offer a design service and can take your job from design to completion.
vance elliott asks: My dad and I are making an old cowshed into a workshop. How could I make this cheaply but livable. I have done all the concreting for the floor. Thanks Vance
We recommend using James Hardie HardieFlex Lining as a cost effective cladding. It's available from all good building merchants.
Michelle asks: Hi there We are making an opening in a brick wall, the opening will be about 1200mm wide x 1800mm high. Im just wondering what specs the beam will need to be, to support the remaining bricks. Thank you
The size of the beam depends on the weight of the wall above the beam and any other structural loading that may be taken by the wall. It is best to get in touch with a designer / engineer who can work the size for you.
Pauline Hutchins asks: We would like to look at recladding our 1920s cottage with Linea Weatherboard. Can you advise what is required and who would be a recommended installer in the New Plymouth area? Thank you.
The cost to re clad a house mainly depends upon the product to be used for recladding. If you choose Linea Weatherboard the install cost is roughly $125.00/m² this will vary depending on state of the existing framing and site elevation. Your nearest installer is Smith & Sons Taupo for a quote call 0800 764 842. Visit the James Hardie website for more information on our cladding options.
Bruce asks: We have a double-story house which is showing signs of cracking. We are therefore faced with a complete re-clad. We will probably opt for Linea Weatherboard. In order to keep costs down and break up the monotone appearance, could you suggest some other products which we could use in conjunction with Linea Weatherboard. This particularly applies to a large balcony we have running around two sides of the house which is going to consume a lot of cladding material. Thankyou.
There are a couple of options for you. If you're looking for a contemporary industrial look, Titan Facade Panel is a flat panel with negative jointing. Another option is Axon Panel which has subtle vertical lines that can be painted any colour in the spectrum, including black. There are some great examples of composite cladded homes under our exterior tips and tricks section of this website. If you'd like printed material sent out to you, email your address to info@thedrawingboard.co.nz. We can also recommend a builder to you that specialises in rennovation jobs. Smith and Sons on 0800 764 842 or www.smithandsons.co.nz.
Russell Paterson asks: We are currently having a house clad in Linea Weatherboard in Marlborough Sounds by Graeme Taylor Builders. We plan to paint it ourselves and are wondering what paint we should use.1) Under Coat for Aluminum corner flashings & 2) Top coat for it. Thanks Russell Paterson
You can use Dulux Prime Acryl undercoats and Dulux Weathershield top coats which comply with AS3730 standard specified in E2/As1 and our technical specification. Dulux provides a 10 year warranty on their paints.
brian morton asks: Could you please advise the best method to repair joint cracking on James Hardie fibre cement sheet which has been plaster textured. Thanks brian
It is important to understand first why the joints cracking. The hair line cracks can be fixed by applying a high build paint. We suggest you talk to paint manufacturers e.g. Dulux for further information.
Liz asks: Is it possible to put Linea weatherboards over brick cladding? We are looking at buying a house and I need to know if it can be done. If not can you give me a ball park idea of how much it might cost to reclad. It is a single story 3 bedroom house. Thanks Liz
The brick cladding most probably is just a veneer (single brick) and is not suitable to install Linea Weatherboard, unless it is a solid wall e.g. filled concrete block wall. You can discuss the installation of Linea weatherboard further with James Hardie on 0800 808 868.
sarah purdom asks: Hi I am looking at purchasing a small 2 bedroom unit in christchurch but would like to extend it by about 5 - 10m2 but want to know if this is possible to do before I purchase the property who do i need to talk to see if it can be done? Thank you for your help
Contact your local council and check with them to see if it can be done first. Then enlist the services of a designer or architect.
Mike W asks: How long will Fibrolite sheet cladding last? Our place is 50 years old - how can I tell when it will need replacing? Is Fibrolite a good quality product?
It is expected to last over 50 years. However, like all cladding products it depends on the maintenance e.g. coating and cleaning of the cladding done at regular intervals.
RAJ asks: Hi. I am thinking of extending my house to add an extra toilet batroom and a spa, approx less than 10 sq met. do i have get a plans done for this and apply for a building consent?
Yes you will. A consent is required for any extension and plumbing works. See your local council for more information.
Clarry Inwood asks: What would you recommend as the most suitable cladding to fix over existing rusticated weather board. Preferably low maintenance.
It is not that easy to fix another cladding over an existing weatherboard. We recommend you need to discuss this with a builder/designer who can come and do a site inspection.
Ida Mah asks: We are renovating our 1960's house and have removed the ugly tacked-on front door area because we have installed a new stacker door, that leads to the deck, next to it. We now encounter 2 problems: 1. The new weatherboard size doesn't match the old. We don't have the funds to reclad the whole wall/ house. The weatherboards in the rest of the house are in good condition. 2.There's also an area above the old front door which has vertical boards. How can we make this area, which is the first area visitors see when they walk up to the house, look modern and tidy. We are gutting the lounge and kitchen and dining to make an open plan area.
For your first issue, the only option would be reclad the wall or to create a join in the weatherboards to enable you to only reclad a portion. You would still however notice the difference in weatherboard widths. If you wish to replace the vertical boards, try using Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.
Kyle beetham asks: I heard that Linea Weatherboard is failing by absorbing water where it is drilled for the nail holes is this true?
Rest assured that you can't go wrong by selecting Linea Weatherboard cladding used on your house. It's supported by a product warranty of 25 years which no other company does in the market.
Paul van den Berg asks: I want to put a clearlite roof over the deck. Angled back down to use the house gutter. How do I attach the new roof bearers to the barge board and get the new roof to flow into the existing gutter?
It is easy, you can fix the roof bearers to ends of roof rafters of the existing roof.
Stephanie Graham asks: We have an architecturally designed 1950's house and need to replace the louvre windows - we need some with silver coloured working bits as opposed to black. It would be great if someone knows how to source these as my research on the internet has proved fruitless so far. Thanks for your time.
Have you tried www.louvretec.co.nz?
Kam Kamath asks: We have a early 80s brick & tile house with million dollar sea views. We plan on retrofitting this house into a modern house. Don't know where to start.
Firstly, take a look at our Getting Started section of this website. Start collecting ideas you like from magazines. You can talk to builders to get ideas. Smith and Sons are renovation experts and do free quotes. Click on Get a Quote on this website and we can get someone out to you to help.
Desiree De Courcy asks: Hi. I have just discovered your website which looks great as we are about to start renovating our bungalow. We have an idea of the design we want to achieve but are not sure if we need an architect or if we only need an architectural designer. My question is do you have any architects or architectural designers that you would recommend in Auckland for a traditional bungalow? Thanks
We would recommend contacting NZIA or ADNZ. For an explaination of these organisations visit Getting Started section of this website.
Annette Basel asks: Hi, We've bought an old 60's brick and tile and I'm wanting to know how I can modernise the outside, it looks really dated. The brick is the red brick with dark grout. Many thanks Annette
That's a tough one. You could always contact your local Master Painter and see if you can paint over the brick. Depending on your budget, you could always look at a re-clad.
Alison Dackers asks: Hi there, the bottom level of our house is clad in some sort of fibrolite sheeting. The upper level is clad in cedar rusticated weatherboards. We would like to replace the cladding of the lower level with the same cedar weatherboards. Do we require consent to carry out this work? Thanks, Alison.
Yes, all cladding work requires a consent.
Karena asks: Hi. I have a house clad in old James Hardie weatherboard. They are the 300mm profile. Unfortunately they are of the 'biscuit board' type and most of them are rotten. Linea does not come in this profile so I am faced with a complete re-clad which I can not afford. Are there any cheaper (but still recommended) options for re-cladding a single level basic L shape dwelling? Thanks for your help
Of course. You could try James Hardie Smooth Weatherboard which is a more economical option and comes in a 305mm wide width. The other option is to opt for a sheet product that is quicker to installation like Axon Panel or Titan Facade Panel.
C Dixon asks: Our house currently has a corrugated compressed cement sheet roof which is very old. We are looking to replace this with a coloursteel long run roof. Do we require consent for this?
There was a ruling regarding re-roofing that meant that you required a building consent unless you were replacing like with like. This has however been enforced differently across the country with differing interpretations from the Territorial Authorities. The best thing to do would be to contact your local council and ask them directly. As the cost of a building consent will not be priced into any reroof quotes, the liability should you proceed without one and be caught out, would rest solely with you. For more information contact Metalcraft Roofing.
siobhan o'donnell asks: Can you remove the hearth the fireplace from the chimney without it falling down? (the chimney)
It is not possible to answer this question without actually looking at the job. We recommend getting a professional around to take a look at the job. You can contact Smith and Sons on 0800 764842.
dave carmody asks: If a house is so low to the ground that you cannot get under it and it needs to be repiled, (some part appear to be siting on rock!) will the house need to be lifted, if so how much approx will it cost? The house is 110m2
Have a look at this website www.repile.co.nz - they will be able to help you.
Craig asks: We are in the process of buying a house clad in Hardiplank, it was built in 1993. Can you advise if there is anything we would need to check or should look out for based on the age of the home? Is Hardiplank prone to leaking or dampness problems? Does the Hardiplank used in 1993 contain asbestos?
Check that the product has been installed as per the installation manual of that time. This can be obtained by phoning 0800 808868. It does not contain asbestos.
Raj asks: Some of my windows in my house have buckled a bit and I want to doubleglaze all the windows. Do I have to replace the whole windows and frames to do this or can I replace only the window with an aluminium window or get someone to fix the buckled windows and double glaze them? Need a cheaper alternative.
Contact 0508 800 755 to be connected to your local Nulook Licensee. It will require a site visit to asertain how bad the current windows are and what steps can be taken to fix the problem. With all joinery, steps can be taken to retrofit double glazing but you first need to asertain how bad the problem is with your current joinery, and this will require a tradesman comming out and having a look.
Roni Martin asks: I am trying to work out a colour scheme for my new build house. How do I do this without employing the services of an expensive interior designer?
Try a Dulux Colour Consultant. They're a cost effective option. Book one here.
Levi Freeborn asks: What sort of permit design do i need to re-purlin and re-roof a house?
A permit may be required if you are changing the type of roof. For example Longrun to Tile, however this can vary from council to council depending on their interpretation. With regards to purlin replacement it would depend upon the amount of purlins replaced. It's always better to contact your local council due to some of the interpretation discrepancies before you start.
Amanda Mackenzie asks: We have a backyard surface which is all orange/terrocotta coloured tiles. This is very ugly and we want to know if we can change the colour of the tiles? Alos can we lay other tiles directly over these or build a deck over these?
Gnerally speaking you can't recolour tiles. Building a deck over the top of them is an option.
Micaela asks: I would like to extend our new home by adding an area that would be around 6m by 2m. this would be 2 more rooms. Any ideas how much this might cost us for the consents? We are part of Manukau city Council.
Visit your local council website for this information. Click here for costs for Manukau City Council.
Lindi Colby asks: We are looking at alterations/additions to our home and/or putting a cottage on the property. However we need to look at the pros and cons in terms of costs and one of the main factors is the average building cost per square metre when building. I know this is a bit vague but I need a starting point.
The cost of any hosue depends on the specification of the house. the average cost varies between $1300-1500/m2.
Vik asks: I have a fibrolite cladding walls and would like to know if I need to add prima whilst painting the exterior or can I just paint directly with the paint? Do I need to sand it before painting? Can I use wet and forget and wash the wall with a telecopic brush as maintenance and how often I need to do this?
You should not need to sand the wall. It is better to prime the wall first and then give it a minimum two coats of paint. For washing down you can use a soap stick and telescopic brush.
Pamela.kirk asks: Can Axon be painted or does it come in a range of colours?
Axon Panel from James Hardie is not pre-finished. However, it is manufactured using CLD technology and can be painted any colour of the spectrum, even black!
Carolyn Senior asks: We have fibrolite cladding on front of studio. The front door has no cover to stop driving rain what could we do about this. Any suggestion would be a help.
You can put a small awning or a projection to deflect the water away
John asks: I want to build a lean to roof over my deck and just want to see some drawings/designs for the build eg. fixing bearer to outside of house and runnning rafters out etc? Where can I see some accepted drawings of this or even step by step guide? Many thanks
There are no generic drawings for this type of situation. You would need to get an architect or designer to create drawings specifically for your application.
Jim asks: We are looking at a house that is built out of Fibrolite? What should we be looking out for with this type of cladding? Also the estate agent has said it is weatherboard with plaster over the top? How can we check?
The main thing is the cladding must be installed as per its installation manual. The weatherboards are not plastered. So you should get in touch with a builder who has experience of claddings.
Stephen asks: The building paper in our roof cavity is ripped and sagging in places causing dripping from condensation. Is it possible to replace the building paper?
It is not easy to replace the building paper without replacing the roofing.
